I like HM, it's easier than HC http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...ails.php?id=33&category=genus&spec=Hemianthus
I like that alot! I guess it's called pearlweed? Sounds like it might need more light than what I'm working with though.I like HM, it's easier than HC http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...ails.php?id=33&category=genus&spec=Hemianthus
Thanks for the info. I didn't think about the light distribution being an issue. Hmmm. Something to think about.Just found a handy trick one can do with the AquaLight that might be of use to you: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/l...coralife-aqualight-legs-free.html#post1050463
Also, Dwarf Hairgrass might do a bit better (or at least be easier) than the Dwarf Baby Tears. Consider doing a dry start for the ground cover if you're going low-tech because it's going to take a very long time to fill in well otherwise.
Water Sprite: http://ow.ly/1BhkE Wisteria: http://ow.ly/1BhlnJust a comment, not to scare her off...the faster growing stem plants, like hygro and water sprite (isnt that the same as water wisteria? Maybe not) are good to have in an aquarium because faster growing plants take up excess nutrients faster (to help prevent algae) and can be easily pruned back (whacked back really...and then replanted elsewhere)...as needed. Whereas swords and crypts and vals, etc cant really be as easily pruned.
Thanks for helping me refine my list!good plants to add
Java Fern
Anubias (seen a few different kinds, like them all)
Wisteria**
Water Sprite**
Anacharis**
Moneywort **
Rotala Indica**
Cryptocoryne
there other foreground options out there such as dwarf sags.
dwarf baby tears??
i have most of the plants you are looking. send me a pm if you want help getting them.
That's what I was afraid of. I think the dwarf hairgrass looks pretty nice and sounds resilient, so maybe I'll go with that. I prefer the way HM looks, but it sounds like it might have more demanding light requirements than what I have?HC (Hemianthus callitrichoides) aka Dwarf Baby Tears will grow, but it tends to get leggy in lower light/non-CO2 situations from what I understand so it might not look as nice as you want.
Nope, plant as heavily as you can from the start. Where healthy plants grow, algae is less likely to appear. That being said, if you can dry start the foreground stuff it'll fill in much nicerSo is it a good rule of thumb to just start with one of each plant, and then propagate the ones I can later?
I thought it was a 20 gallon long?Also - The fixture that I am getting is the normal output T5s. They take 18 w 6,500K bulbs, which will put me about about 36 watts for a 40 gallon tank. Do you think that's going to be good enough for these plants?
Try it and see if you like it? Colormax brings out reds in fish etc more, so if you don't have any of that from the beginning the only advantage of using it would be saving yourself from buying another bulb.Also, it comes with a ColorMax bulb in the fixture. Will that bulb be okay to use, or do I need to replace it with another 6,500k bulb right off the bat?
Hmm, I'm not very good at visualizing without recreating it in front of me. I am familiar with the thirds design principle, just not planting haha.Just me, but I think you make an aquascape plan for your plants...meaning how it will look when plants are fullgrown....and that means you use balance, and groupings, and design principles. So no, not just one here, one there, IMO. There is also the 'thirds' design principle, are you familiar with that?
Yes, sorry, 20 gallon long. 2 watts per gallon, so I calculated 40 watts was correct and then accidentally typed gallons instead.Nope, plant as heavily as you can from the start. Where healthy plants grow, algae is less likely to appear. That being said, if you can dry start the foreground stuff it'll fill in much nicer
I thought it was a 20 gallon long?
Try it and see if you like it? Colormax brings out reds in fish etc more, so if you don't have any of that from the beginning the only advantage of using it would be saving yourself from buying another bulb.
My plan is to use either Flourite or Eco Complete (the later is cheaper at my lfs, so I will probably go with it) and then layer some of my current river-rock gravel on top of it. This is what the river-rock gravel looks like:i just read your thread, sounds cool when your starting a planted tank.
i dabble in planted tanks so i think i can help, and i dont like the look of 65k bulbs. it throw a yellow tinge and to me i donjt like it. 10k throws out more of a white light. it will grow the plants reccomened here. some will argue that you need 65k.
since your tank is not too tall NO lamp will do wonder for your plants.
you could dose seachem ferts once a week plus excel or DIY CO2.
do you have any plans on some name brand substrates yet, or finer gravel?
a cheaper route would be turface pro and some root tabs.
im a big advocate of much flow in a planted tank, sooo maybe a hydor koralia nano.
a easy grass plant would be e. tellunus, i like it.
IMO not correct. Plant heavily, as AP said. And make sure that some are fast growing stem plants. Planting heavily at first is a basic principle that goes back a ways, at least to Karen Randall. (She's coming to our club in June, btw!) It's certainly a good idea for the average person starting out.One of the LFS guys told to me to just add a few plants at a time, to avoid getting algae all over the tank. Do you think that's correct, or no?