Todays project
- Thread starter FISHSHROD
- Start date
The water line is hooked up to my old 3 stage R/O unit but the R/O mambrane part has been removed so it's just a water filter with 2 particle filters and a charcoal filter. It runs to the tank . Keeps the water level from dropping and when I do water changes it slowly refills the tank. I hate 5 gal buckets for doing water changes
I also have one on the 125 that REALLY makes water changes a breeze. The water line is tee'd in the attic.
I am the only one that I have seen that has done this .I'm sure there must be others but it's not something that you see , I haven't .
The pics aren't that good .
Now, this is kewl. I have been too lazy to take on something like this. But, someday, soon!
I did see a couple of problems in the automatic changes I would like to find solutions to. How do you adjust the temperature of the incoming water, automatically, so it will be in a comfortable +/- 2 degrees F from the existing/remaining aquarium water? And, how is your dechlor/water-treatment/ferts/etc. chemical(s) added? (this is the lesser of the two problems--I guess I could get off my lazy bum and actually manually add them! It is hell to get old, I tell 'ya! LOL) Seems there would be something for auto-sprinkler systems which would be available; I should ask at Lowes.
Currently, I have 50 ft. of 5/8 vinyl tubing I can attach to the sink and using a no-contact, infrared therometer, adjust temp. by viewing the temp directly through or from the vinyl tubing itself, and warmed from the water flowing through it. This, after first draining 1/3 to ~1/2 of my 'standard' water change amounts. (lazy here to, sometimes a tank goes a couple of weeks between changes)
And, I could really brag about a kewl diy project, if I'd figure out a way to take a sprinkler system timer and have the changes occur right on schedule. (yeah, I am really that lazy!) However, as another poster had already commented, then I would always fear a flood!
Have a bad back here, doc says the 5 gal bucket is out of the question; and, after ignoring his advice, and suffering, I now believe him--hence the vinyl tubing.
Regards,
TA
I believe it is being run thru a revamped RO/DI unit.
properly set up these will remove chlorine/chloramine.
when I run my RO/D,I I run mine from the tap and adjust the water temp there.
another option I have seen with these is to run the ro/di to a holding tank that has a heater. this then becomes the source water for changes.
properly set up these will remove chlorine/chloramine.
when I run my RO/D,I I run mine from the tap and adjust the water temp there.
another option I have seen with these is to run the ro/di to a holding tank that has a heater. this then becomes the source water for changes.
I installed flow through system for a local Discus/Angelfish breeder a few years ago. She wanted a central system installed but I took one look at the setup, the supply and drain locations and came up with this. Initially the water went through a very expensive tempering valve that would mix hot and cold to a set temp. From there it went into a carbon filter and into a manifold with hydroponic drip emitters. Flow was controlled by a sprinkler timer. Everyday the system ran for a specified period of time and the amount of water dispensed was controlled by the number of drip emitters that fed each tank. The tanks were drilled for overflow, but instead of overflowing into a sump the water went right down the drain. Each tank contained a couple of sponge filters. It was a beautiful system if I do say so myself!
I changed the one that is in the pic, the one I replaced it with doesn't hang down all the way. I know what you are talking about though.
I have used float valves for years in sumps and on my tanks and have not had a problem.
Now, this is kewl. I have been too lazy to take on something like this. But, someday, soon!
It makes it SO easy to do water changes especially when I change 60 gal on the 125. I use a garden hose to the bathtub to drain and then add prime and turn on the water to the tank
I did see a couple of problems in the automatic changes I would like to find solutions to. How do you adjust the temperature of the incoming water, automatically, so it will be in a comfortable +/- 2 degrees F from the existing/remaining aquarium water? And, how is your dechlor/water-treatment/ferts/etc. chemical(s) added? (this is the lesser of the two problems--I guess I could get off my lazy bum and actually manually add them! It is hell to get old, I tell 'ya! LOL) Seems there would be something for auto-sprinkler systems which would be available; I should ask at Lowes.
Currently, I have 50 ft. of 5/8 vinyl tubing I can attach to the sink and using a no-contact, infrared therometer, adjust temp. by viewing the temp directly through or from the vinyl tubing itself, and warmed from the water flowing through it. This, after first draining 1/3 to ~1/2 of my 'standard' water change amounts. (lazy here to, sometimes a tank goes a couple of weeks between changes)
And, I could really brag about a kewl diy project, if I'd figure out a way to take a sprinkler system timer and have the changes occur right on schedule. (yeah, I am really that lazy!) However, as another poster had already commented, then I would always fear a flood!
Have a bad back here, doc says the 5 gal bucket is out of the question; and, after ignoring his advice, and suffering, I now believe him--hence the vinyl tubing.
Regards,
TA
I don't worry about the temp of the new water entering the tank, it's never to cold or hot and it fills slowly so it's not like dumping 5 gal buckets in or turning on a hose to fill it fast. The ferts are just added separatley.
The filter is just 2 particle filters and a carbon block. The ro membrane is not used. I just splash in some prime.
Sounds like a cool setup !
You got it !!!!!!!!!!!!
Who me ????????????? :headshake2:
