Want to use HOB on Acrylic Tank

F

FishInMaryland

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Sep 30, 2004
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Davidsonville, MD
I'm done with under-tank canisters (even tho only experience is with leaky Fluval 404s), due to a 10 gal or so leak during the night after a power failure onto and through a hardwood floor. Major damage, nobody is happy. I want to switch to HOB filters on my 125 gal acrylic tank. The problem is that the tank isn't designed (I think) for HOBs. There is a box inset into the end of the tank, through which all of the tubing is routed, seemingly to be used ONLY with below-cabinet filters. The top has two cutouts in it, in the center, for access into the tank. I know I can cut slots in the canopy, that's not a problem, but what about the tank itself Can I cut slots in the top, and if so, how to do it without draining out the tank, taking out fish, etc?? I'm desperate, and operating a filter short on this tank now.

This is all due to a crappy Fluval 404 that won't stop leaking AT ALL, even with new o-rings (tried 3 new rings).

Ruth
 
I can hang a HOB HOT MAGNUM filter on my acrylic tanks with no problem.
 
Hmm, well, I have to say I am somewhat puzzled by your post. How did your canister leak? Also HOBs have just as much of a risk of causing water damage.
My AquaClear clogged and pumped 10 gallons of water onto the floor of my apartment one night...it was not a pretty picture and it sounds similar to what happened to you...

Anyway it boils down to this for me:
Canister's are a closed loop, meaning if it clogs it wont leak, and if the power shuts off it wont siphon onto the floor (since its closed) and when the power starts back up it shouldn't burn out a motor because the siphon will keep water in the canister.
HOB's are an open loop, which means if it clogs it can overflow out somewhere it shouldn't and if the power shuts off it can siphon into the tank (good for the water damage) but when it starts back up your filter's motor will burn out trying to suck air (bad for the filter).

But, it's your choice and your tank does sound like it has an odd setup, so maybe its different for you...

Any chance of pics of the tanks ends and top?
 
Hmm, well, I have to say I am somewhat puzzled by your post. How did your canister leak? Also HOBs have just as much of a risk of causing water damage.
My AquaClear clogged and pumped 10 gallons of water onto the floor of my apartment one night...it was not a pretty picture and it sounds similar to what happened to you...
Click to expand...

A cannister filter with bad seal will put water all over your floor. I had that happened to me with a Fluval filter. The one thing that helps is using vaseline around the rubber seal.

As for using HOB on acrylic. It's all based on design. All my SeaClear acrylic tanks have a cut out for heaters and filter. It's probably eurobrace.
 
A picture of the tank top is needed I believe...and finding an HOB that has an outlet that can span the back bracing.
 
To answer all of the various questions:
1) how did the canister leak - I got a guy at the LFS to check out the canister yesterday (amazing, really, on a Saturday), and he felt that the bottom section of the canister had a slight bow where it shouldn't, and gave me a new bottom section. Worked fine. I use veg oil on the o-ring when I replace/re-seat, and I had tried 2 new ones yesterday morning, to no avail.
2) the acrylic is 3/8" thick
3) pics attached (I hope I did that right); not sure if you can make things out since the canopy is still on. The slots for the filters' intakes and returns are at one end of the tank (to the left of the pictures), near the square "tube" that runs through the tank for you to run cords, tubes, etc. The black thing is the cord to the lights.
4) there is 3" between the edge of the cutouts on the top and the edge of the tank - I haven't seen a HOB with an outlet that long
- guy at the LFS suggested NOT cutting the top, as the top of an acrylic tank is part of the strength of the tank.

DSC_0842.JPG DSC_0843.JPG
 
That's one weird design with that white box inside the tank. From the picture, I don't think there is going to be any way for you to use a HOB filter without cutting. I personally would not cut it either because it will make the top flex even more.

What about removing that box? Is that silicone in?
 
The white box is actually a square "tube" running from the top to the bottom of the tank. It provides the dry location through which the cords for the lights and heaters run, as well as input/output tubes for the filters, which sit below the tank. If I remove it, there will be a square hole in the bottom of the tank. I really wasn't expecting to find a HOB filter, but thought somebody here would have an idea. However, it sounds like the possibility of a water spill on the floor from a HOB is at least equal to the possibility of a leak from a canister. So, the grass isn't always greener, I suppose. Maybe I'll look for a "wet floor" alarm, instead.
 
I agree with Psykick, in that a HOB filter is just as likely (if not more likely) than a canister to cause problems. Considering you've already tried new O-rings, it sounds like you just need to replace a defective canister filter. They are obviously not supposed to leak, and if a lot of them did leak no one would have them. I've had 5 canisters and they've never leaked on me. Get an XP3. I've had 3 XP3's and 2 XP4's and they are solid filters. I think they are a little better quality than the Fluvals. If you are ok spending a little more, get an Eheim; they're even better quality. You can place the canister filter in a 10 gallon tank, just as a security measure in the event of failure. Think of it as a $10 insurance policy (I'm sure you can find an old used 10 gallon in the classifieds/craigslist for $10). I did that with my XP3's, but luckily I've never needed it.

I would not cut the top of your acrylic tank. As you've heard, the top provides a lot of the structural support to the tank. If you cut the top incorrectly you could end up with stress fractures that may lead to failure.
 
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