water changes ? who much ? why? when?

ronbo404

Registered Member
Jan 1, 2005
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Hi
I am new to this and a little confused. I think I understand the cycle process. But why would you do water chnages during this process? Don't you want the amonia to buildup; resulting in nitrites and then nitrates.
Anyway the question is what are the water change requirements (who often and what percent) durnig cycling and post cycling?

I have a 10g tank with 2 sordtails about 5 days into cycle with a whisper 30 filter. No nitrites or nitrates and just a trace of amonia.

thanks
ronbo404
 
Welcome to AC!
Ammonia and nitrite are toxic to fish. If you're doing a cycle with fish in the tank, I'd do daily 50% water changes (even twice daily) to keep the ammonia and nitrite to a minimum - you don't need to let it build, the bacteria will have enough; water changes are important right now to reduce danger to the fish. If you need to clean the filter media, make sure it's rinsed in a bucket of water from the tank or the bacteria could be killed off.
:)
 
preventative changes? and some more questions

Blinky said:
If you're doing a cycle with fish in the tank, I'd do daily 50% water changes (even twice daily) to keep the ammonia and nitrite to a minimum - you don't need to let it build, the bacteria will have enough; water changes are important right now to reduce danger to the fish.

So, we don't need to do a change until we see the ammonia and nitrite levels rise? Or, do we do preventative changes?

Also, I'm not sure how to get the new water to be the same temp as that in the tank. Do you suggest using warm water from the tap, adding the anti-chlorine stuff, and then adding it to the tank? Or, should the water sit for a bit?

How about vacuuming the gravel? It looks fine, but I know a tubifex worm burrowed in there. A few pellets also fell into the gravel. Leave it alone or vacuum?

By the way, I have a 24 gal. tank with just one betta.

Thanks!
 
Rather than going with arbitrary percentages for water changes, which may or may not be sufficient to keep fish healthy while cycling, I like the idea of using test results to guide your water change schedule. Keep ammonia and nitrites below .5 ppm by changing enough water every several days to keep those toxins below that level. If you find the level creeping beyond .5 ppm, just increase the frequency or magnitude (or both) of the change.

After the tank is cycled, you should similarly use nitrates as your guide to acceptable amounts/frequencies of water changes. Keep nitrates below 40 ppm, or better, below 20 ppm and you'll be doing fine.

HTH,
Jim
 
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