Water Changes?

it just seems like a lot more constant effort to be refilling or changing the bucket every time it runs out. if you're worried about shocking the fish with sudden changes to the water chemistry, you don't have to run a python at full blast. i've used it recently on a fry tank and took about 15 mins to refill 20 gallons. your way just seems very complicated to me when there are devices available to make this whole water-change thing so much simpler.
 
when I get my big tank after I graduate I'll be getting the python system thing...but until then it's a 3 gallon bucket for WC for my 15 :grinyes:
 
What everyone says. You will be all right with regular tap water, I use amquel and it works well. Also do regular water changes.
 
wataugachicken said:
it just seems like a lot more constant effort to be refilling or changing the bucket every time it runs out. if you're worried about shocking the fish with sudden changes to the water chemistry, you don't have to run a python at full blast. i've used it recently on a fry tank and took about 15 mins to refill 20 gallons. your way just seems very complicated to me when there are devices available to make this whole water-change thing so much simpler.
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It's hardly any effort at all. The only real "work" I do is turning on the hose to refill the bucket then dosing the water conditioner. Then everything is set up to take care of itself more or less. I just refill the bucket a few times until the tank is full. But again - I never said anything about it being time efficient. My largest tank is a fifty five gallon that is right in my living room. So I'm basically watching TV, reading, messing around on the computer, etc while the refill is taking place. Thus I don't have any issues with time because all I have to do is reach over every ten minutes or so and refill.

I do sometimes just take the hose right to the tank but it's only when I'm hurried or feeling lazy. And I would rather not do that.


I simply don't like the idea of chlorine entering my tank no matter what conditioner I have added. It's not a magical potion that defies the laws of physics - the chlorine must come into contact with the chemicals - therefore your fish and your bacteria are being hit with chlorine for at least a few seconds when you add straight to the tank. Sure, maybe that's just fine but since I don't know for certain I dislike taking the risk. And why use more dechlorinator than I need to use? Just because it's not expensive that doesn't mean I should throw it away unnecessarily.


Sure maybe I'm cheap and overly careful but we all have our faults.
 
DGalt said:
when I get my big tank after I graduate I'll be getting the python system thing...but until then it's a 3 gallon bucket for WC for my 15 :grinyes:
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same here, ive got a nice red bucket :D

i think that the point here really is that everyone had their own way of changing water on their tanks. as long as it works for you, stick with it. there may be a time down the road when you need to change your routine because you add a tank, upgrade, get rid of a tank, or have a new fry tank. as long as the water is getting changed and replaced with new water, it really doesnt matter how the water got there as long as it is clean.
 
mine is white...cost me 69 cents at price chopper. be nice if it was 5 gallons, but what can ya do :hitting: <-- that's just a hilarious smiley
 
Back to the original question. Whether you use Prime or Amquel (which also reeks of sulphur) and NovAqua, you would benefit from letting the water sit for a while, even a long while, after treatment. I suggest getting a rubbermaid storage bin in the 24 gallon size and set it out of the way but near your tank. Measure 20 gallons of water into the bin and treat it. You can run an airstone or a powerhead in it to keep it stirred, or just let it sit. You could stick a heater to a piece of glass and set it in the bottom of the bin and keep the refill water at the same temp as your tank - stick one of those strip thermometers to the outside. There's your next 8 water changes, right there. Then refill and do it again. If you're situation is conducive to it, you can stick it on a mechanic's scooter, or just a board with four casters affixed, and then you can roll it to your tank and back to it's between water changes residence with the greatest of ease.
 
with my tanks i use tetra aquasafe with bio extract. no problems at all with it.

i use the old bucket method, even on my 55 gallon. i would invest in a python if i had a bigger tank. tho its a 3 gallon bucket, and takes time, to me it doesnt seem like alot of work.
 
i use regular tap water, and trea tit with a tetra aqua: Aquasafe water conditioner
it gets all the nasties out and helps with their stress coat
 
here is the dirty little secret about chlorine in city water systems if your source water is a well.

Before some chemist starts to flame me this is generalized and if necessary I can produce the formulas and calculations to prove this but I am a licensed water operated by the state of NJDEP.

water is pumped up out of the ground then it passes through a chlorine injection system of either gaseous or liquid.

as we all know chlorine has a half life. ie it will remove its self from the water all on its own with out any chemicals.

it is then pumped into for most city water systems one of those large water towers.Wher it will be i the tank from 1 to 7 days depending on the system from there it goes through miles of water pipe all the while the concentration of chlorine is reducing. here where the laws and or rules of small numbers come in to play.

The concentration of chlorine in your tap may not even have a reading depending on how far you are away from the injection point.

The only other factor is water consumption. IE in the summer months people use more so the time in the system is shorter so the concentration is higher. conversely in the winter less water is used so the water stays in the system longer and the concentration goes down to the point there is NONE in the water.

There are other times when the concentration get a sharp boost as in could go off the scale is during repairs. (they are required to hyper chlorinate the water after a repair it is NOT always done for one reason or another)

Now we move on to those unlucky few systems that have switched over to Chloramines This was started to fix the above situation. It also has a half life but it is alot longer.

That being said the safest thing is to assume that there is chlorine in your tap water. But if fact may not be and not to the consintrations you think.

if you test for chlorine you may be suprised. You may not need those chemicals at all. "BUT" I always recomend using prime, I do.

Let the flames begin
 
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