Water clarity problem :s

The cloudiness (if white, not green) is caused by a bloom of a variety of micro-organisms and planktonic creatures -- not the same bacteria that oxidize ammonia and nitrite (the so-called nitrifiers, that attach firmly and aren't generally found free-floating). Lots of things can cause this cloudy water, including too much food, insufficient maintenance or the tank being new and the populations not being settled.

Generally, the cloudy water has nothing to do with the tank cycling. You can get these types of blooms in healthy, cycled tanks that show zero ammonia and nitrite. It almost always clears itself up without intervention as the populations of micro-critters find balance. Remedies to 'cure' the bloom or 'clarify' the water may provide temporary relief, but generally the bloom comes back. Sometimes these cures worsen or prolong the problem.

If your tank is cycling, I'd be worrying about keeping ammonia and nitrites below .25 or .5 ppm. Those toxins can permanently harm or kill your fish, and they certainly can't feel very good (take a good whiff of ammonia - pleasant, isn't it?). As long as there is any food for the nitrifying bacteria, they will multiply. It doesn't matter if there is a little food (.25 ppm) or a lot (5 ppm); they won't multiply any faster.

Good luck,
Jim
 
J that was a really good explaination thanks!

Would hitting it with a diatom filter solve my problem or just delay it?
 
I'm not an expert with diatom filters, so I can't really say. I do know that most of us don't use them and we still have clear water. I'd wait a while, see if it clears on its own. You can always use a diatom later...

Jim
 
Water changes may indeed increase the speed of your cycle. I've never run side-by side tests (haven't had the the time or extra money), so this is hypothetical for me, but consider this.

Ammonia (NH3) and Ammonium (NH4+). They exist in equilibrium to eachother in solution, thus if you reduce the levels of one in your water, you reduce the levels of both. Nitrification bacteria feed on NH4+, converting it to NO2, and then more bacteria convert the NO2 to NO3, the endproduct of that cycle in most tanks.
NH3 is highly toxic to fish, and the reduction of NH4+ in aquarium water by beneficial bacteria reduce, in turn, the NH3. However, the unionized ammonia (NH3) is also toxic to the nitrification bacteria. Thus, allowing your ammonia/ammonium levels to rise too high in any stage of cycling, "fishy" or not, may inhibit the establishment of the bacterial colonies and prolong the cycle. This may be why we hear of cycles that last only a few weeks, or those that drag on for 8+ weeks.

Food for thought if nothing else.
 
Ouch wrote:
the tanks is 33 gallon, I have 2 small feeder goldfish, a danyo and 2 corys.

Kasakato wrote:

Your tank is also overstocked. Not by a lot but over stocked.

I'm also confused by this statement, and would like to hear the justification behind it. However, I do agree wholeheartedly with the incompatible species comment. From the context I assume the goldfish are being used to cycle the tank.
 
Goldfish need 20g for the first fish. Then they need another 10g after that for every fish. This guys tank is a 30g. With 2 goldfish (20g+10) you need a 30g tank. This means that your tank is fully stocked. He has aslo added some more fish, and chances are wants to add more, leaving him with an overstocked tank.
 
PHP:
Goldfish need 20g
Y does a 2 inch feeder need 20 gallons again? So your saying for every inch of fish i need 10gallons of water? hahaha
Are u being serious? If you are, im going to have to disagree with you there
My girlfriend keeps 2 one year old fancy goldfish the size of a fist, in a 25 with no problems, only weekly water changes.
That is like the highest estimate ive ever heard, maybe if I had an 6-8 inch goldfish i could see that but seriously, 2 inches=20 gallon :S
 
Y would i raise a feeder? also feeders dont get that big even fully grown like the fancy goldfish
 
AquariaCentral.com