What kind of water do you use for a water change?
- Thread starter JosephMCorbett
- Start date
Mine generally takes less than 24 hours, but I run an Airstone, as well as a penguin 1140 in a 44 gal rubbermaid can. The water moves pretty noticeably in that set-up, and columbus uses what I think are pretty low chlorine levels. You cannot smell the chlorine in our tap water at all. at least not by the time it gets to my house. If you plan to set up an aging barrel just do some testing to get an idea of the needed time frames for your particular water.
BTW All of comes right out of the bottom of my water heater, because that's currently the only spigot in my basement. my siphon hose drains into the sump pump right now, but I will eventually have my very own laundry sink in the basement which will then be my drain and supply.
What? Oh, sorry Ali, no I was saying absolutely to RTR's comment about surface area and agitation. I didn't see your post, I don't think that it was up yet, or at least not on my monitor. Sorry about the confusion.
To your question, yes, an empty running tank is just aged water. The filter seems like overkill though, I'm not too sure what you're hoping to acieve with it. If it's just agitation then an airstone/wand would probably be cheaper, no?
To your question, yes, an empty running tank is just aged water. The filter seems like overkill though, I'm not too sure what you're hoping to acieve with it. If it's just agitation then an airstone/wand would probably be cheaper, no?
Agree w/HC's response, but some of us hate airstones and do not use them other than in emergency. Many of my reservoirs are tanks, with a powerhead sitting on the bottom with the output aimed upward to roil the surface. If necessary the powerhead sits on a sponge as required to damp vibration for the silence nut operating the tanks. 
Those tanks do gas off faster than the much deeper (relative to surface area) Rubbermaid drums.
It may just be a matter of relative cost and lifespan between a pump and a filter, but the powerhead/pump can move the water to the target tank as well as circulate it within the reservoir.
Those tanks do gas off faster than the much deeper (relative to surface area) Rubbermaid drums. It may just be a matter of relative cost and lifespan between a pump and a filter, but the powerhead/pump can move the water to the target tank as well as circulate it within the reservoir.
Just to add an illustration to RTR's post. A water pump and a heater can be placed in just about any container to age water - the pump running to churn the water to greatly speed up degassing as well as get an even temperature by moving the water throughout the vessel to increase the effectiveness of the heater. When you're ready for a water change, it's a simple matter of hooking some tubing to the same pump outflow and refilling your tank.
The pump is off in the photo to prevent the roilling of the water from hiding the hardware.
The pump is off in the photo to prevent the roilling of the water from hiding the hardware.
i just fill up my five gallon bucket with medium temp water, add fourty (or fifty , depending on how high i fill the bucket) drops of declor and refill. :smile:
Ken said:
Same here, although I add Amquel and StressCoat just to be on safe side. Strongly considering python as I read more about them--my trailer floors can't take much water spillage!!!
