What's wrong with my swords plants?

tanker said:
That does not (to me) look like Iron deficiency. Needs maybe Phosphate or Nitrate. Clip off those leaves and let the plant use it's energy on the good leaves.

How long has the plant been in the tank?? Are you root feeding?? Swords love root food.
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The plants have been in the tank since Jan. 30, 2013, so for 7 days. No, I'm not root feeding or using ferts.
THE V said:
Since your just setting up your tanks and still cycling. What are your current tank parameters?

It looks like transport/transplant shock to me. If you notice the browning is on otherwise healthy leaves. Not a typical nitrogen or other nutrient deficiency symptom. Probably got injured during the shipping/transplanting and your seeing the effects of the damage now.

You'll want to begin a fertilizer regimine. I purchase mine from Bob as well. You can go two ways: Look up the individual components and dose them according to the proscribed schedule (found here http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?136668-Co2-Fertilization-Algae-and-more-updated-10-10-%281-Viewing%29) or order bobs CSM+B NPK & Iron Combo mix. You can also purchase from other places. Just look for a Micro/Macro & trace mix.

Once you get to know plant nutrition and your tank it's possible to tweak the formulation to get the results you want. Hence I have my very own high N & Fe mix that I use. It's only taken me 20 years working in agriculture and plant science to figure it out.

BTW pruning leaves affected by nutrient deficiency is always a very bad idea. Fix the nutrient issue first, let new healthy growth recover, and then prune off the older affected leaves. Pruning plants that small will stunt the growth and lead to more issues. This is especially true with slow growers like that E. parviflorus in the picture.
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Current tank parameters:
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tanker said:
"V":

I was always taught to remove old, damaged, leaves. Give more energy/nutrients to the other leaves.

PS--Are you sure that is E. Parviflorus?? Looks like E. Cordifolius to me.
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I purchased it as echinodorus Parviflorus. He does not carry Cordifolius.

So I must start root feeding (root tabs). And start a ferts regiment asap.
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uploadfromtaptalk1360053864509.jpg
 
Swords are often grown emersed (leaves out of the water). After you get them in the tank they switch to growing submersed leaves (underwater). It can take a while for the old leaves to die as they are replaced by new. Often the submersed leaves are slightly different in shape. I let the old leaves stay on until half brown/yellow. But root tabs will help.
 
tanker said:
"V":

I was always taught to remove old, damaged, leaves. Give more energy/nutrients to the other leaves.
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Removing old damage leaves does not benefit the plant. It does however make the tank look prettier.

Many nutrients are mobile in the plant. This means that the plant will move the nutrients from older growth to younger tissue. Deficiency symptoms are generally on the older leaves first.

Some nutrients don't move and the old leaves have to be broken down by herbivores/bacteria to make the nutrients available to the plant again. These are the nutrients that deficiency symptoms appear on the growing tip for these nutrients.

If there is any green left on the leaf it is producing photosynthates. Thse are sugar based compounds made from light, CO2 and water. These are generally very mobile in the plant.

This means that the torn up and ugly leaf is still a source of mobile nutrients and energy for the plant to grow.

One of the benefits of adding fertilizer to the tank is eventually you can prune off the old leaves when they are all brown. This is because you are replenishing the non-mobile nutrients in the tank and don't have to rely on the decomposing plant tissue.

Hopefully this all makes sense to you.
 
THE V said:
Removing old damage leaves does not benefit the plant. It does however make the tank look prettier.

Many nutrients are mobile in the plant. This means that the plant will move the nutrients from older growth to younger tissue. Deficiency symptoms are generally on the older leaves first.

Some nutrients don't move and the old leaves have to be broken down by herbivores/bacteria to make the nutrients available to the plant again. These are the nutrients that deficiency symptoms appear on the growing tip for these nutrients.

If there is any green left on the leaf it is producing photosynthates. Thse are sugar based compounds made from light, CO2 and water. These are generally very mobile in the plant.

This means that the torn up and ugly leaf is still a source of mobile nutrients and energy for the plant to grow.

One of the benefits of adding fertilizer to the tank is eventually you can prune off the old leaves when they are all brown. This is because you are replenishing the non-mobile nutrients in the tank and don't have to rely on the decomposing plant tissue.

Hopefully this all makes sense to you.
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Thank you for your informative explanation! I get it now. But I cant get dry or liquid ferts now can I get by with root tabs for a while?
My saved up money is to get my beginning fish.

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Root tabs will be fine. Swords get most of their food from their roots anyway.
 
Thank you all for the great help:D

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