Who makes the BEST filters for a 55 gallon setup?

squale

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Mar 25, 2005
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I want to get a very good filter to keep my new 55gallon setup I am looking to buy clean and with the least amount of maintance required. with a very good filter, how ofter do you need to clean the tank and the filter? are there expensive maintenance costs involved here?

what are the different types of filters... hang on and canister? which is better?

sorry for the newbie questions I am just trying to learn what I need... thanks
 
squale said:
I want to get a very good filter to keep my new 55gallon setup I am looking to buy clean and with the least amount of maintance required. with a very good filter, how ofter do you need to clean the tank and the filter? are there expensive maintenance costs involved here?

what are the different types of filters... hang on and canister? which is better?

sorry for the newbie questions I am just trying to learn what I need... thanks
I think canister filters are the best all around for a 55 gallon. The hang on back (HOB) filters are good and do a bang up job, but they do require maintenance more often. Canister filters require a little more maintenance in and of themselves, but usually once a month is good for a canister. Canister filters are great for planted tanks because they gas off less CO2. I do recommend you change 50% of your water and vacuum the gravel at least once a week no matter what your filter is. Your local fish store (LFS) may tell you differently. The old theories of letting water sit for a month and that changes hurt or stress fish are being blown apart by new proof to the contrary.

As far as brand names go, if you go with a canister and are on a budget, Rena's Filstar XP line of canister filters get extremely favorable reviews. If money isn't as much of a concern, I suggest Eheim. They are top notch filters for hobbyists. If you decide HOB filters will work well enough for you there are several good brands to choose from. If it is an unplanted tank, I suggest Marineland's Penguin or Emperor line of filters. These are the ones with the biowheels. Biowheels make it easy to cycle new tanks and just work well at what they do, which is provide favorable conditions for the beneficial bacteria all tanks have to have. If you want a planted tank and the canister filters are out of your means, the Aquaclear line of filters are decent enough. You can keep them from disturbing the water's surface too much which would gas off CO2.
 
What type is better is all personal taste.

On a 55 I would get 2 penguin 350......very well priced and will do a good job. You will have to still clean them every once in a while when they get junk in them.

but are you going to have plants and co2? if so a canister would be better, the output can be placed under the water, this will help keep co2 from gassing off too quickly. But these will cost more.

and don't worry about being new or asking Questions lots of people will help.

Edit : wow I typed slow good info in the above post :)
 
okay some more questions..

1.) if I get a canister filter do I need a seperate bio-wheel? I still don't really understand what a bio-wheel is and why you need it?

2.) What does Cycling a tank mean?

3.) When you say planted tank you mean a tank with REAL live plants in it versus fake plants right?

4.) If you use a canister filter, what things go inside the tank? is it like a couple hoses or something that just sit inside the tank? I really don't understand how it works?

5.) I heard that the Aheim canister filters you only need to clean once every 6 months... is this true? How expensive is the cleaning and do you need to buy new parts when you do this? Does it take a long time to clean, etc?

6.) Do canister filters make the top of the water bubble and make lots of noise? right now I have a 10 gallon tank with this cheap hang on filter and it makes some prettly loud bubbling noises and the water on the top of the tank is always in motion quite a bit.

7.) How often do you have to replace the gravel in the tank?

8.) And how often do you have to drain some water and put new water in? I heard you only do 20% at a time when you do this, not 50%.

Thanks again for all of your help, really is appreciated!
 
squale said:
okay some more questions..

1.) if I get a canister filter do I need a seperate bio-wheel? I still don't really understand what a bio-wheel is and why you need it?
A Biowheel is simply a place where the beneficial bacteria can gather. These beneficial bacteria are what converts ammonia that fish release into nitrites and then into nitrates. Ammonia and nitrites are very toxic. Nitrates are less so. These bacteria are collectively referred to as a biofilter or biological filter. A Biowheel, therefore is called biological media. There are other types of media on which these bacteria can grow. A filter sponge, gravel, porous ceramic media made specifically for aquaria etc.

2.) What does Cycling a tank mean?
It is the process by which a tank gains these beneficial bacteria I mentioned above. Once a tank is able to process all of the fish's collective ammonia output to nitrates in a 24 hours period, a tank is said to be cycled.

3.) When you say planted tank you mean a tank with REAL live plants in it versus fake plants right?
Yes. Sorry, force a habit. Obviously you can "plant" a tank with fake plants, but when someone refers to a planted tank, they generally mean a tank in which they grow live plants. By the way, these are all great questions and I am thrilled you are asking them and not being shy!

4.) If you use a canister filter, what things go inside the tank? is it like a couple hoses or something that just sit inside the tank? I really don't understand how it works?
Actually, you seem to have a pretty firm grasp. The canister itself sits somewhere outside the tank. Many folks keep it behind or below their tank. What goes in your tank is an intake tube and an outflow tube to transfer the water from the tank, to the filter, and back to the tank again. There are three types of filtration a fish tank can have. There is biological, which we discussed above, then mechanical. mechanical simply means it removes the physical debris from the tank. this can be fish poop, excess food that gets sucked in, in a planted tank it can be dead leaves etc. The last type of filtration is chemical filtration. This is usually in the form of activated carbon which acts as a sort of chemical sponge, trapping chemicals in it. Certain types of filters can offer one, two or all three types of filtration. You can even modify your filters in some regards to do these jobs. The old undergavel filters with lift tubes were great for biological filtration, but left something to be desired for mechanical. With some modification, they could be used for chemical filtration as well. The HOB filters are usually able to handle all three. They have a sponge or biowheel as biological media and sometimes another sponge for mechnical filtration. You can add carbon to these (in fact, many stock filter cartidges come with carbon in them) for chemical filtration. A canister filter has whatever media you load it with. Many come with media in the box with directions on how to set it up.

5.) I heard that the Aheim canister filters you only need to clean once every 6 months... is this true? How expensive is the cleaning and do you need to buy new parts when you do this? Does it take a long time to clean, etc?
I'm sorry, but that is someone trying to appeal to your inertia. I think most people would suggest cleaning a canister filter every month. if you do not, the media clogs and the rate of flow is reduced dramatically. This means it is filtering less and less water, which can be dangerous as it will lead to increased levels of toxins in the tank. Some folks will do it every two months but I feel that's pushing it, unless they have some other filter on there backing them up. To clean a filter usualy takes little more than time. If you use activated carbon on a regular basis (and there is no need for this, honestly) then it can cost a bit to replace that. Otherwise, it's a simple matter of rinsing sponges and other media in water that you removed fom the tank into a bucket. How long it takes depends on how regularly you do this and what brand of filter you have along with fish load. I hear figures of around 15-30 minutes to break down a canister, clean the media, reload it and get it going again. All in all, not bad once a month.

6.) Do canister filters make the top of the water bubble and make lots of noise? right now I have a 10 gallon tank with this cheap hang on filter and it makes some prettly loud bubbling noises and the water on the top of the tank is always in motion quite a bit.
Right now, canister filters are some of the quitest filtration on the market. You can adjust the flow and angle of the tubes to make it virtually motionless. A slight nioseless ripple is a good thing, though, as surface turbulence is what keeps oxygen in your fish tank for the fish to breathe. As a side note, if you keep the water level full on your 10 gallon and put a filter sponge on the outlet, you can reduce that noice quite a bit.

7.) How often do you have to replace the gravel in the tank?
Never, if you don't want to.

8.) And how often do you have to drain some water and put new water in? I heard you only do 20% at a time when you do this, not 50%.
I recommend doing a 50% water change once per week. 20% is old school mentality. For some reason, it persists. The theory used to be that changing too much water shocked the fish. This was because the theory also used to be that you shouldn;t mess with tank water very often. Most books and sources cited cleaning a tank as a necessary evil that could kill your fish. So, they recommended cleaning only once per month. In that month's time, the water in your area can change significantly due to seasonal changes and what the water company is adding to your water to deal with such changes. This scared people back in the day. So, they changed water less often and less water. less water was necessary because in that month's time the water's chemistry changed so much in the tank that it didn;t resemble the water coming out of the tap. Change too much water, it could shock your fish. Now, we know better, or should. Changing water more water more often keeps your tank's water cleaner, and closer to source (usually the tap). My fish actually love water changing day. As I add new water in, they play in the current which to me would indicate that changing their water is not shocking their system, but rather stimulating it.

Let me be the first to warn you, there are tons of myhs in this hobby. Question everything you can and research as much as you can as well. Ask here and get the various opinions. I can assure you that a site like this with people who research much and foten is more likely to yield more current and accurate information than a fellow that sits in a pet store all day, unless he is actively seeking out new information.

Thanks again for all of your help, really is appreciated!
It's what we're here for, please feel free to ask anything you want as really, there is no stupid question whn you are starting out and learning about aquaria.
 
I use a Fluval 304 on my 55g planted and I am delighted with it. For something like 70$ at www.bigals.com I'm even more delighted:)

I wish you could come listen to it running - because you wouldn't hear anything. It is silent even with my ear at the door to the stand.

A canister filter is really handy because it is very versatile and you can choose what you want to fill it with. If you are looking for a lot of particle filtration, you can add a lot of sponges. If you really want a lot of biological filtration, you can fill several baskets with ceramic rings. If you need some chemical filtration (in the form of carbon) to remove meds or driftwood tannins, you can add a basket full of carbon.

Another great thing about canisters is the ability to determine where the input and output to the filter goes. This helps you choose where you want your current, in what direction it goes, how far below the water surface the output is, if you want to add a spray bar onto it, and a number of other things.

One of the only "drawbacks" is that during power outages, the bacteria in the filter tends to die off quicker because the canister is pretty much sealed and no oxygen gets in. To remedy this, you just take out the media and set it in a shallow pan of water.

As for how much water to remove, there is no set answer, really. The best way is to measure your nitrates and see what kind of levels you are getting. Do enough water changes to keep them down below 40ppm, although I shoot for 15ppm or under. In a nonplanted tank (where there are no plants that need nitrates), the closer you are to zero, the better.

Everyone's tank, water supply and stocking is different. The 45% per week that is okay for JoeSchmo might not be enough for you - or you could maybe get away with 30%. In time, you will find the schedule that best suits you and your needs.

I made you a goofy little drawing to hopefully clarify the simplicity of a canister filter. Since the tubes going into the tank sit behind the glass (and behind a background) all you would see is the two pieces going into the tank - not the ugly tubing. And the canister usually sits under the tank, hidden by the stand's doors.

canistercrop.JPG
 
Thanks guys, this has been most helpful. How about putting in one of those cool water bubbling things.. you know the ones you usually see inside of a ship wreck looking thing in the tank? Do you need a seperate air pump for this to happen? or can you hook this right up to your filters output? I went to the BigAls' site and I saw all crazy types of things, not really sure what most of them are... and if they are even for freshwater setups or not..
such as..

Air Equipment
Protein Skimmers
U.V. Sterilizers
Water Pumps & Powerheads
Water Purification
Water Treatment

I really don't understand what all the above are for..

The other thing I was going to ask is whether you guys could pretty much give me the exact listing of parts I would need for a 55 gallon setup. I think I want to go with a GOOD canister filter such as Aheim but don't know which one I need. I see there being Power Filters, Canister, Modular, Sponge, Wet/Dry, etc.. and my head is just spinning on what exact ones I need to match my tank size the right way. I also don't know what GPH flow rate I need for a 55 gallon tank.
Also I was wondering what specific other parts I need such as Test Kits, cleaning tools, Air Equipment, etc..

I pretty much got down what tank, stand, hood and lighting I will have.. all made my All Glass Aquarium. Now comes the fun part of everything else I need to go inside..

Thanks again for all of your help, you guys are very kind for taking all the time to answer these questions, you have helped so much thus far and I really appreciate it. The local fish guy doesn't seem to want to really spend much time educating me..
 
You need test kits for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates and maybe Ph, hardness, and alkalinity if you just are going to do fish, but I'm not sure about those last three. Some sort of declorinator for your tank water, like Aquasafe by Tetra, buy or make a python or gravel cleaner( there are some good ones in the diy forum), gravel, heater, net, food appropriate for the fish you plan on.
Everyone seems to like filtering the tank water capacity a good 5 to 10 times per hour, so on a 55 gal so a filter that says at least 275 gallons per hour(gph), but probably closer to 550gph depending on your fish.
Cannister filters are different from the others which all have differences from each other and I don't know all of the differences you would have to ask some of the others. Anybody jump in and correct me if I am off course.

Make sure you read the thread " Cycle " at the top of the freshwater newbie forum.
 
a 550gph filter for a 55gallon tank seems like way too much. I think the Eheim 2026 would be a good filter at a Pump Output of 251gph and Filter Circulation of 172gph. They say this filter can do tanks up to 92 gallons in size and this would certainly not be close to 5-10 complete water changes per hour.
 
squale said:
a 550gph filter for a 55gallon tank seems like way too much. I think the Eheim 2026 would be a good filter at a Pump Output of 251gph and Filter Circulation of 172gph. They say this filter can do tanks up to 92 gallons in size and this would certainly not be close to 5-10 complete water changes per hour.
Yeah. you'll find most people on this site scoff at what the manufacturers suggest their filters can handle. In this case, listen to the people who have experience and are not trying to sell you something (us) rather than a manufacturer trying to get you to buy their product and then possibly another when you find out that you need more filtration. ;) Just a heads up. Also to answer your question about all the stuff at Big Al's:
Air Equipment -- optional. This would be air pumps and airline to run the aerating ornaments you saw.
Protein Skimmers -- Saltwater business, you won't need it.
U.V. Sterilizers -- not necessary. Can be gotten later if you have that specific need.
Water Pumps & Powerheads -- Not necessary since you are not using an undergravel filtraiton system.
Water Purification -- not necessary
Water Treatment -- This is stuff like the Dechlorinator we talked about before.
 
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