Wiring Subs in line

austinpetemo

austinpetemo

AC Members
Sep 25, 2007
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Newton Falls, OH
im planning on buying kick cvr 12s (400rms) , 2 of them to be exact. and i am wondering how to hook them up to the amp i am planning on buying. it is 400w on single channel, so how can i hook both of them up? and should i buy the 2ohm subs or the 4 ohm for this purpose?
 
It depends on your amp. You say its a 400w amp, is that at 4ohm or 2 ohm? If your sub amp is stable down to 2ohm, then you can get 4ohm subs and wire them in parallel for a 2ohm load and they would get 200w each. If your amp is only recommended to go to 4ohm, you can get 2ohm subs and wire them in series for a 4ohm load (200w per sub). OR, if your sub is rated for 400w at 4ohm but stable at two ohms, wire 2ohm subs in parallel for 400w per sub.
 
Sploke said:
It depends on your amp. You say its a 400w amp, is that at 4ohm or 2 ohm? If your sub amp is stable down to 2ohm, then you can get 4ohm subs and wire them in parallel for a 2ohm load and they would get 200w each. If your amp is only recommended to go to 4ohm, you can get 2ohm subs and wire them in series for a 4ohm load (200w per sub). OR, if your sub is rated for 400w at 4ohm but stable at two ohms, wire 2ohm subs in parallel for 400w per sub.
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:thumbsup:
 
Sploke said:
It depends on your amp. You say its a 400w amp, is that at 4ohm or 2 ohm? If your sub amp is stable down to 2ohm, then you can get 4ohm subs and wire them in parallel for a 2ohm load and they would get 200w each. If your amp is only recommended to go to 4ohm, you can get 2ohm subs and wire them in series for a 4ohm load (200w per sub). OR, if your sub is rated for 400w at 4ohm but stable at two ohms, wire 2ohm subs in parallel for 400w per sub.
Click to expand...

umm, actually you want to look for a 400 watt, 2 ohm stable MONO block amp. If you use a 400 watt 2 ohm stable stereo amp and run (2) 4 ohm subs in parallel the problem that you will have will be overheating of the amp causing it to go into thermo protection. What this means is that right in the middle of your favorite song on a nice hot day, your amp will shut down due to thermo protection till the amp cools down a bit. The reason for this is because when you run a "stereo" amp bridged with (2) 4 ohm subs in parallel the AMP actually will see 1/2 the load. (2) 4 ohm subs in parallel = 2 ohms but the "stereo" amp will actually see 1 ohm. = hot amp. When you look for an amp make sure to specify that you are looking for a "mono block amp".
Now if you must use a "stereo" amp then I would suggest (1) 4 ohm sub on each channel non bridged.

** people bridge stereo amps (run them mono) to get more power out of the amp. (ex) a 400 watt stereo amp bridged can usually produce about 500 watts. Subs are normally run in a "mono" mode because of the way bass is recorded.

*** If using a stereo amp you can use (2) 4 ohm dvc, run the voice coils in series, giving you 8 ohms then parallel the subs together and bridge the amp, thus giving you a solid 2 ohm load to the "stereo"amp.

**** wiring subs in "series" is usually not recommended. the reason is because the voice coils are never identical in ohms. you are counting on a very small wire (voice coil) to flow the wattage from 1 sub to the other and this can cause potential damage to 1 sub. also the second sub will not get the same amount of wattage to it that the first sub will get due to a voltage drop across the first sub. If you were to look across the top of the subs during play, you would not see an identical movement. This can also cause some phase cancellation. NOW I KNOW there are some people that do "series" subs and swear that they "notice" no difference. However from past experiences it is not recommended.
 
The load doesn't change whether the amp is bridged or not - 2 ohms is 2 ohms. However - many amps that are 2-ohm stable will specify 4 ohm stable in bridged mode, which I think is what you're trying to say. This is why I asked for more detial on the amp - regular 2 channel amp or a true mono amp.
 
its a volfenhag 1000w 2 channel, with a 400w rms bridge, it has a minimum bridge impendance of 4ohm. im assuming than that i need to do a "parrellel/series" with 2 4ohm dual coil subs? it is also fan cooled. so it wont heat up as fast or have as much of a problem as yall have stated to me.

heres a link to the amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2555_Volfenhag+ZX-8200.html

heres a link to the amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9347_2+Pack+of+Kicker+CVR124+-07CVR124,+CVR12+Dual+4+ohm-.html

on another note, what type of wire do i need to use to do this?
 
xsdbs said:
umm, actually you want to look for a 400 watt, 2 ohm stable MONO block amp. If you use a 400 watt 2 ohm stable stereo amp and run (2) 4 ohm subs in parallel the problem that you will have will be overheating of the amp causing it to go into thermo protection. What this means is that right in the middle of your favorite song on a nice hot day, your amp will shut down due to thermo protection till the amp cools down a bit. The reason for this is because when you run a "stereo" amp bridged with (2) 4 ohm subs in parallel the AMP actually will see 1/2 the load. (2) 4 ohm subs in parallel = 2 ohms but the "stereo" amp will actually see 1 ohm. = hot amp. When you look for an amp make sure to specify that you are looking for a "mono block amp".
Now if you must use a "stereo" amp then I would suggest (1) 4 ohm sub on each channel non bridged.

** people bridge stereo amps (run them mono) to get more power out of the amp. (ex) a 400 watt stereo amp bridged can usually produce about 500 watts. Subs are normally run in a "mono" mode because of the way bass is recorded.

*** If using a stereo amp you can use (2) 4 ohm dvc, run the voice coils in series, giving you 8 ohms then parallel the subs together and bridge the amp, thus giving you a solid 2 ohm load to the "stereo"amp.

**** wiring subs in "series" is usually not recommended. the reason is because the voice coils are never identical in ohms. you are counting on a very small wire (voice coil) to flow the wattage from 1 sub to the other and this can cause potential damage to 1 sub. also the second sub will not get the same amount of wattage to it that the first sub will get due to a voltage drop across the first sub. If you were to look across the top of the subs during play, you would not see an identical movement. This can also cause some phase cancellation. NOW I KNOW there are some people that do "series" subs and swear that they "notice" no difference. However from past experiences it is not recommended.
Click to expand...

i would have to agree cuz i have done it to my own system. and unfortunately more than once
 
dual. it specifies in the link that i supplied
 
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