I wonder if that's the one I made your talking about there. I've since made a new reactor that screws apart so I can clean it out if need be. I also cut down on the number of bio-balls from 10 to just 5. I still get 100% CO2 dissolve so I'm questioning if the bio-balls even do much, considering that the CO2 mix is carried about 4 feet before going into the tank.
Would this work for injecting C02?
- Thread starter Mooch28
- Start date
I wonder if that's the one I made your talking about there. I've since made a new reactor that screws apart so I can clean it out if need be. I also cut down on the number of bio-balls from 10 to just 5. I still get 100% CO2 dissolve so I'm questioning if the bio-balls even do much, considering that the CO2 mix is carried about 4 feet before going into the tank.
reiverix,
Yeah, you are the one I was talking about!
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39318
I don't suppose you have a list of items to get and directions on how you made it do you?
Because of that post I have purchased some bio-balls and left extra slack in my outtake on the eheim so I can do the same thing.
Yeah, you are the one I was talking about!
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39318
I don't suppose you have a list of items to get and directions on how you made it do you?
Because of that post I have purchased some bio-balls and left extra slack in my outtake on the eheim so I can do the same thing.
I don't have any of the individual parts laying around so here's the best I can do until I head back to Lowes.
A) Is 2 inch PVC tubing. About a foot long. I wish you could get clear stuff as it would look kind of neat to watch it in action.
B) One end is PVC cemented onto part A. The other end has a thread (female).
C) This screws into part B. Use plenty teflon tape.
D) Is cemented into part C. I think it is a 2 inch to 3/4 inch reducer. My Fluval 304 tubing fit nicely into it. I also used some silicon for a bit extra safety. You might want to take a short length of your cannister tubing with you to make sure you get the correct reducer size.
There's 5 bio-balls in there. I did find that it reduced the water output but I also have a 204 in there so it's no big deal.
I spent $25 on one of those fancy ceramic diffusers from Japan. This costs less that 10 bucks, is way better, and one less thing in the tank.
Hope you find this info handy.
A) Is 2 inch PVC tubing. About a foot long. I wish you could get clear stuff as it would look kind of neat to watch it in action.
B) One end is PVC cemented onto part A. The other end has a thread (female).
C) This screws into part B. Use plenty teflon tape.
D) Is cemented into part C. I think it is a 2 inch to 3/4 inch reducer. My Fluval 304 tubing fit nicely into it. I also used some silicon for a bit extra safety. You might want to take a short length of your cannister tubing with you to make sure you get the correct reducer size.
There's 5 bio-balls in there. I did find that it reduced the water output but I also have a 204 in there so it's no big deal.
I spent $25 on one of those fancy ceramic diffusers from Japan. This costs less that 10 bucks, is way better, and one less thing in the tank.
Hope you find this info handy.
The main purpose of the bioballs is to produce turbulent flow to better dissolve the CO2. Laminar flow is the last thing you want in such a reactor. The bioballs are cheap insurance.
