Advice on moving?
- Thread starter M00n3at3r
- Start date
Lol, fair enough. Also, to answer the filter question. I'm running canisters in both with a rugf with power head that have pre-filter sponges. Should I, after removing the decor and fish, vacuum the gravel heavily to get beneficial waste to put back in the tank after moving?
I don't see any benefit to replacing mulm removed by vaccuuming the substrate. You might keep a battery-powered airstone on the substrate during transit to try and keep as much of the biobed alive in it as possible.
Mark
If you can afford to buy one of those power inverters that plug into the cigarette lighter plug, you could actually run your filters the whole trip!
Now about the gravel fluorite mix... I have a mix of cheap gravel and Eco complete that naturally separate due to shape and weight (I guess it could also be magic). I have stirred them all up and the MTS must rearrange while I sleep because it's always gravel on top somehow. I do not know if fluorite is heavier or lighter though. Any reason they can't be mixed? If not, dump it all in a cooler with some tank water and run those filters like I suggested before. If you are worried about weight, nothing says you can't put the cooler on the truck and then add the water, then siphon it off when you get there for removal. Bacteria and mulm will be there and ready in your substrate to fire the cycle right back up.
Those above me have given some great suggestions! Aren't we lucky to have each other to share the knowledge here at AC?
Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
Now about the gravel fluorite mix... I have a mix of cheap gravel and Eco complete that naturally separate due to shape and weight (I guess it could also be magic). I have stirred them all up and the MTS must rearrange while I sleep because it's always gravel on top somehow. I do not know if fluorite is heavier or lighter though. Any reason they can't be mixed? If not, dump it all in a cooler with some tank water and run those filters like I suggested before. If you are worried about weight, nothing says you can't put the cooler on the truck and then add the water, then siphon it off when you get there for removal. Bacteria and mulm will be there and ready in your substrate to fire the cycle right back up.
Those above me have given some great suggestions! Aren't we lucky to have each other to share the knowledge here at AC?
Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
Provided you keep the substrate and/or filter media wet, and do not "wash" it, the bacteria will remain fine for days. I just put my gravels in plastic fish bags, and then packed these in small boxes (wet substrate is very heavy). The movers kidded me after my move that they had not previously moved boxes of rock and gravel...and hoped they never did again. lol. They were heavy.
Another thing, you can always add some bacterial supplement to the tanks once they are set up. It can't hurt, so no dangers using it. Tetra's SafeStart, Seachem's Stability, or Dr. Tim's One and Only are three that I know work for "seeding" bacteria.
Most good water conditioners also contain slime-coat protectors which help.
Live plants. When I moved my three large tanks, I relied on the plants in the new tanks to handle ammonia and they did. At the destination I set up the 70g tank with all fresh water, and connected the filter which had been running on it at tear-down (did not wash the media). All 250 fish went in this tank as soon as it came off the truck and was filled with water (dechlorinated), and I laid some floating plants on the surface. Two days later I set up the 115g, and the day after that the 90g, and moved the fish accordingly. I knew the water would be the same as previously (same municipal region), so no fears there; if this is the case, do not "save" any old water as it will not be as good on the fish as new fresh water. But if the parameters may be significantly different, taking some water can help.
Couple of other points. Do not lift or carry an aquarium with the substrate in it, or any water. Empty only. Small tanks, say up to 30g, if sitting on a piece of plywood that can be lifted, can be OK with substrate in them. Water in tanks in a truck or moving car could cause the tank seal to break.
Byron.
Another thing, you can always add some bacterial supplement to the tanks once they are set up. It can't hurt, so no dangers using it. Tetra's SafeStart, Seachem's Stability, or Dr. Tim's One and Only are three that I know work for "seeding" bacteria.
Most good water conditioners also contain slime-coat protectors which help.
Live plants. When I moved my three large tanks, I relied on the plants in the new tanks to handle ammonia and they did. At the destination I set up the 70g tank with all fresh water, and connected the filter which had been running on it at tear-down (did not wash the media). All 250 fish went in this tank as soon as it came off the truck and was filled with water (dechlorinated), and I laid some floating plants on the surface. Two days later I set up the 115g, and the day after that the 90g, and moved the fish accordingly. I knew the water would be the same as previously (same municipal region), so no fears there; if this is the case, do not "save" any old water as it will not be as good on the fish as new fresh water. But if the parameters may be significantly different, taking some water can help.
Couple of other points. Do not lift or carry an aquarium with the substrate in it, or any water. Empty only. Small tanks, say up to 30g, if sitting on a piece of plywood that can be lifted, can be OK with substrate in them. Water in tanks in a truck or moving car could cause the tank seal to break.
Byron.
Keep it moist, I would put the pieces in plastic fish bags, or a covered pail, with a small bit of tank water.
