Blue Cathode...Moon Lights on a Budget!!!
- Thread starter sawyer1206
- Start date
yeah, just strip the wires, twist them, and electrical tape around them sufficiently, and you're good to go.
there are 2 wires to work with so just make sure black goes to black, and the other is obvious.
the plugs are called "molex" connectors with a red, 2 blacks, and a yellow wire. yellow wire is 12v, and that's what you'll be using. the red is for 5v that's used in computers but you can ignore it, and it may even just be a blank slot in the connector (no pin)
there are 2 wires to work with so just make sure black goes to black, and the other is obvious.
the plugs are called "molex" connectors with a red, 2 blacks, and a yellow wire. yellow wire is 12v, and that's what you'll be using. the red is for 5v that's used in computers but you can ignore it, and it may even just be a blank slot in the connector (no pin)
I have been wanting to convert a computer power supply to be a stand alone power supply, cheaper than buying a converter. The possibilities are endless with it. It was first brought to my attention when a friend saw that some r/c racers were charging batteries for there cars. I wanted to build a radio box with a car receiver, small amp, and speakers, (stuff i had around the garage.) so I found a couple of websites that offer info to set up a stand alone power supply. Here is the first site i found
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply and here is the other one
http://www.marcee.org/Articles/PCPowerSupply.htm
Hope this proves help to you all. And a personal note don't do it if your not electrical inclined.
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply and here is the other one
http://www.marcee.org/Articles/PCPowerSupply.htm
Hope this proves help to you all. And a personal note don't do it if your not electrical inclined.
all you have to do is connect the correct 2 pins or wires (depending on model of PSU) to make the computer PSU think it's plugged into a mobo. you can google up which 2. they're within the 20-24 pin/wire plug that comes out of most PSUs.
Just be aware with some PC power supplies (I'd think the larger ones) that you can burn em up without providing a minimum load on the output. I've however been using a very small old AT style power supply for years without issue (well actually I havent used it int years more like it). I've got some larger supples for servers and the minimum current draw is actually pretty big (I think the 5V line had a minimum of ~5A)! This has to do with the characteristics of a switching power supply vs a linear supply.
No cutting a splicing is required if you get a supply like timinny first mentioned since the supply has a molex plug, as long as the ccfl kit was one designed for a computer case and has a molex plug also.
I also just rigged up my first ccfl moon lights... I had a bunch of them I picked up in a $4 bin at the local computer shop. I went ahead and picked up the adjustable voltage adapter from wallmart. Just two of these 12" kits at 12V lit up my 240g too brightly! Due to the 8' distance I spaced them at 1/3 and 2/3 distances, it was a little dim in the middle and slightly at each end, but the spots right below the lights were too bright IMO. If the room was completely dark, 9V was even pushing it, 7.5 was ok. I had some extra angle aluminum so I just zip tied em in that, which also provides some reflector properties. And the aluminum was just laid across the top of the tank (~2" from the water surface). Once I get my canopy built, these things will be mounted much higher, like 12" probably up, so that should dim the light slightly and also spread it more even. Maybe I'll even polish up the angle aluminum...
No cutting a splicing is required if you get a supply like timinny first mentioned since the supply has a molex plug, as long as the ccfl kit was one designed for a computer case and has a molex plug also.
I also just rigged up my first ccfl moon lights... I had a bunch of them I picked up in a $4 bin at the local computer shop. I went ahead and picked up the adjustable voltage adapter from wallmart. Just two of these 12" kits at 12V lit up my 240g too brightly! Due to the 8' distance I spaced them at 1/3 and 2/3 distances, it was a little dim in the middle and slightly at each end, but the spots right below the lights were too bright IMO. If the room was completely dark, 9V was even pushing it, 7.5 was ok. I had some extra angle aluminum so I just zip tied em in that, which also provides some reflector properties. And the aluminum was just laid across the top of the tank (~2" from the water surface). Once I get my canopy built, these things will be mounted much higher, like 12" probably up, so that should dim the light slightly and also spread it more even. Maybe I'll even polish up the angle aluminum...
This thread is a how to on "COLD CATHODE MOON LIGHTS" not LED moon lights. I think you will find most members here are aware of the LED version of Moon Lights and have there opinions on both. By reading your post I gather you prefer the LED version and that is great. I welcome you to express your opioion but please do it in a tactful way.
Thank you,
Dennis Sawyer
Got my lights today took 15 minutes to hook them up and they look great. Can't wait till tonight to see them.
Can someone make one for me?? Maybe someone can make one for me and I will pay for supplies & shipping? I am incapable of any electrical wiring! Pretty please? 
