Dwarf Rainbow with foot and mouth disease???

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fabiobruno

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Fabio Bruno
Yes I can get Malachite and Methylene, I just can't get antibiotics.

Today I performed a 25% water change and added 2 TBS of Aqualibrium (in the tank there should be already ~1 TBS each 25 Lt., so I should be 4 TBS now for the 80 litres of net water in tank, almost 1gr. of salt per Lt.), and I'm planning to add some more on Monday.
I'm holding on on the anti bacterial....
 

Cerianthus

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Depending on what the action is, it can be more detrimental than inaction when dont know what we are dealing with.
As an old timer, always had salt in most of f/w tanks, the amt depending on types of fish in the tanks.

If possible, treat in Q/T. Record the volume of water and amt of salt (concentration) and the progress. Such jouranal will definitely be an asset in fish keeping down the road.

Although cant verify for sure from the pics, but from my experiences of handlilng many many Rainbows and others, I found that fish in their ideal water condition water & and good husbandry did provided a high chance of recovery w/o meds.

Such Sores and pimples does not necessary means infection. Spooked fish do bumped into galss and/or other objects.

Like I said, hard to say what it is. If the lips, not mouth, turns pale/white, that should be treated as soon as possible.

At least your fish is eating and swimming/behaving normally, I would still just monitor the fish and water condition.

Have you added any new fish just prior to this mishap?

Upon searching internet, cound not find what the ingredients are for Interpet Internal Bacteria Remedy other than it claims to be effective againt Aero, Pseudo and Vibrio Bacteria which all belongs to ORDER Eubacteriales where most of common fish paththogenic bacteria are found.

I would personally hold off on med if your water is w/in reason and/or until more changes are noticed.

Final call is yours, my man!

Hope all goes well!

Remember to keep record of all the events, actions, progress, and results.
 
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fabiobruno

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Hi Cerianthus, thanks for the suggestions! I'm holding off and I'm just monitoring at the moment.

However I have a major breakthrough: yesterday morning going through my "fish tank logbook" (sure I have one, I note down all going in and out from the tank, the routine water tests and everything strange) I had literally an illumination, I unplugged my filter (Fluval U2) and checked the flow... the filter is rated 400 Lth => 4 Lt in 36 sec => 9 sec to fill 1 Lt and in the best case (no filter media in it) it took 17 sec to fill 1 Lt, in the worst case 25 sec with media in it (all reasonably clean), so a massive drop of performance... I plugged a spare filter together with the Fluval, let both run for 5 hours to exchange some bacteria and then I went to the fish store to replace the filter (I kept some media from it). I then got back a new Fluval U2 (this filter is bloody good) and by 6pm the new filter (with some old media) was up and running.
Can you believe that at 8pm all fish looked already more lively?!

I'll perform another water change tomorrow, but I'm now more confident that the dwarf rainbowfish will get better!

I'll post another thread because I was quite surprise about a filter partially stopping working...
 

Cerianthus

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It couldve been the reason behind your problem or at least part of it.
Still, monitor closely.

As far as water changes, If your water testing reveals all are within reason, i will just stick to your routine wc.

IMO, key is the stablization of water. So called clean water does not exist as tank water needs to be bio-active in order to support life. Unfortunately bio-activity will come with good and bad. We hope that Stablization of water chemistry and/with properly scheduled routine wc, would render ideal condition for fish being kept.

You probably already know that constant, unnecessary wc will cause shift in water chemistry which in turn may cause fish to shift their energy to cope with chnages in water chemistry rather than utilizing such energy to sustain noraml metabolism/coloration.
According to my experiments/experiences, I yielded less implications/complication/losses when SLOW changes takes place in the tank. Especially when fish are sick/diseased.

I stopped using staight tap and dechlorinator more than thirty years ago as soon as I realized that aging of tap will do the same. Not the case now days in certain area where chloramine is added to tap water. Fortunately, still not an issue with my local water. If it was added, I would DIY NH3 tower/reactor to eliminate Amine out of water before being used on the fish tank.

Before I get carried away this morning, I just hope that observations/decisions you make are the right ones!!!

BTW, scientific nomenclature of your dwarf raimbow and ingredients of Internal Bacteria if listed on the bottle?
 

fabiobruno

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Well the main reason why I wanted to perform another WC is because the nitrates are ~20... Ammonia and nitrites are 0 and PH is my usual 7.9 (api freswater master test).
 

Cerianthus

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Nitrate at 20PPM is not an issue, IMHO. Constant disturbing of water trying to lower it may render more implications/complications.
Not that I recommend but I had no issues with prolonged exposure to higher nitrate level for most fish including rainbow.
I would utilize nitrate for thick hairy algae to build/grow on the back and sides of tank. Such algae not only filters water but also provides natural environment for planktonic animals to grow (especially fry tank) which is best way to start natural food chains.
 

fabiobruno

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OK you right, something I definitively realised is that experience teach and since you have a lot more than me I'll follow your suggestion. Thanks.
BTW so far so good, I'll keep you posted with updates.
 

fabiobruno

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Just a quick update. The little guy developed a very small lump on the one side, the mouth is virtually unchanged and he looks quite healthy (coloured and active as usual), do you think I need to take any action?
 

fabiobruno

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Hi Cerianthus,

I'll try to take and post some pictures later today, I've just checked ammonia and nitrites so far today (all 0), but PH has been constantly at 7.9 in the last 7 months (last check on Monday), however I'll check later.

Today I performed my regular weekly 25% water change.

The scientific name of the Neon Dwarf Rainbowfish should be Melanotaenia Praecox.

Thanks!
 
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