Dwarf Rainbow with foot and mouth disease???

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sherryazure

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Jul 25, 2005
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This thread in ongoing and forgive as I haven't the time to read through it all. That said, I have 45 years experience (for what it's worth, lol) and science background, but know that there are diseases now (over seas shipping) not found when I was a kid in the 60's.

As well the mouth build up of "what ever" hard to say without microscopic examination of tissue - bulge, tumor like thing makes it harder to conclude that said - I've treated the same fish with the similar type of rigid looking mass and I still mho state FC (or concurrent with something else) due to it's nature and a huge variety of manifestations beyond the cotton mouth look so common on articles on it.

The bacteria builds up (and by the time it looks like this is deeply embedded inside the fish) columes and perhaps like in cancer tumors (where the body tries to contain cells acting aberrantly) it may do the same.


Don't know for sure without a lab but I've seen it in my own rainbows and along with other treatments did specific mouth dabs (avoiding gills) with meds (see all links below).

Meaning it could be some sort of parasite (or even virus) concurrent with bacteria (often seen in this fish unfortunately, grown in horrific conditions overseas)

(do wwm search and then find and insert search results keyword or you will GO NUTS from trying to find it though all the information there, lol)

As an example only:




http://webcache.googleusercontent.c...umor+on+rainbow+fish&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us

<<<Using the above link, designed by our very own Neale, I am inclined to think virus, specifically Lymphocystis, or possibly tumorous growths. Please stop pulling him out of the hospital tank. I think that the constant removal and treatment has more to do with the bloody stool than a possible Columnaris infection. I believe it is more likely viral or tumor. Just keep the water quality in there good and clean. Let the lumps heal over, and leave him be for a while.>>



The problem with no lab biospy is one tries this med based on best conclusion as to what "it" is and then observes if there is an improvement meaning either - wrong diagnosis, or correct diagnosis and wrong med all the while fish is suffering and "it" progresses. (and I agree with last poster experience counts here, and my science background mearly allows me to understand some of the more scientific raw data to draw my own conclusions - that's it)

Sorry hard to organize all in small space so put last first here) see below of wetwebmedia - great professional site and tons of saved information.

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/rainbowfaqs.htm


(note the photos of advanced stages of FC at bottom link to Vet Merck manual - pretty sad for fish, and shows severe ulceration so on) NO longer all fuzzy and cottony at all.

I tried on various occasions to keep both this rainbow and gouramies and two common diseases kept recurring. (from source)

First fish "TB" ( Mycobacterium marinum) (common esp in gouramies) can take years to actually manifest after seemingly having no symptoms - them bamm dead fish with severe symptoms showing up suddenly overnight (my moonlight) and after years of this with these imported fish just stopped. (they are often grown in very bad conditions - called "ticking" time bomb).

Usually that however involves (at some point) a deformed spine (curved) and sunken belly (often showing up overnight)! But it's been there often since a fry, and a fish's immune system can fight it off for years until it can't.

And if this is the case (I think more then one if that diagnosis) then ALL of your fish are potential carriers, regardless if they manifest later or not (and again can take years sometimes. You should not add, nor move fish to another tank, and all equiptment needs to be sterilized - it is highly contagious. (I brought much literature to my local petstore - famous name, after noting the woman who tended the aquariums (gouramies were full of TB ulcers and near end stage) had ulcers on her hands and arms! And her doctors could not identify what it was!

Please note with re to fish meds at great link below - certain meds act toxic-ally at diff ph's and hardness...(I did much research for years on all of this but tossed much as downsizing and just haven't the time to do all the research again, but here are main links)


Second so called "foot and mouth, hoof and mouth - ok being silly but cotton wool mouth disease" is as others have noted - FLEXIBACTER- COLUMNARIS (see link to great site below) and note their med page as often what is mentioned to treat is useless.

Great article (photos of different manifestations and real science data referenced at end of article)

(and why internal treatment - even broad spectrum as secondary infections and or true fungus sets in as it does it's horrific damage) (note - as well in gov and fisheries research hot summer months it is rampant - lower temp of tank may help)

Please note this common mistake in med choice (m1 is gram positive not gram negative) (see other link below as to correct medicine and how they work)

<<As an alternate choice, Maracyn (erythromycin) for Flexibacter (NOT my correction) and Maracyn-Two (minocycline) (YES my correction) for Aeromonas can be used in the water. Overseas fishkeepers can use either Waterlife’s Myxazin or Interpet’s AntiFungus and Finrot.>>

http://www.flippersandfins.net/flexibacter.htm
I've done hundreds of betta rescues where this and it's various forms is common (many different manifestations and as well shows up differently often in different fish species) and did much work on treating often end stages (covered with eyes missing) and even did government research to use h202 (very common in commercial fisheries so a great deal of this type of scientific data out there) (so much research as I used it after end stage due to building fire and holistic methods used on myself (iv's from doctor due to internal fungus! run wild into all of my organs and even bloodstream) - (was getting Masters in biochemistry).

But by the time is shows up on the surface the columes of bacteria are deeply embedded in the body of said fish, organs et al... and one reason why hard to treat with baths medical treatments (I learned that the single cell discoloration in the betta - didn't know what it was at first, but quickly learned that was THE beginning and best time to treat)...

Like us manifesting the same diseases in different manners same with species of fish and even individuals... rainbows seem to get it much on the mouth area I have observed. (and all of these are in humans as well, just differently expressed).

So, I've found that if the fish are still eating, medicines in food is important... along with hospital tanks and treatment in a darkened quite environment (to reduce stress).

(salt baths are great for later wound healing and even concurrent with certain meds - gradual up and down) I do a daily partial off the bottom to keep water quality up.

Here is a great site for this bacteria... (link below)

It is a gram negative bacteria so some common suggested treatments are useless.

M1 (Erythromycin) not effective but M2 is...Minocycline (although one MIGHT have a gram positive concurrent with gram negative - but most fish diseases gram positive are more rare but possible one could use together).

The BIG plus with Mardels M2 is their formula that states (esp for fish that do not eat) it is absorbed into their systems internally and gradually builds up in dose (as I do partials each day to keep water quality steller and adjust meds accordingly (good margin for measuring error)

(one can not use charcoal, and I would highly recommend bare hospital tank as meds ARE affected by organics and other factors in any set up tank - not to mention harm to plants and medicating non sick fish which can cause bacteria to develop resistance - common now).

I found Acriflavin (API fungus cure) helpful as this author states for ( which contain Acriflavin, which is active against flex bacteria in mild cases) (but also often TRUE fungus sets in and this is useful for that as well) (on top of lesions, ulcers so on) and often I use it when treatments with M2 are ending... or for spot treatments (mouth, tails fins so on - diluted and MAKE sure cotton swab is dabbed off so no meds ever run into gills - I often tilt fish in net opposite direction - takes some doing and one works fast with wet towels underneath - to avoid gills.)

(anti-fungal medication for effective treatment of fungus and secondary bacterial infections. Pre-portioned packets contain Victoria Green B and Acriflavine )

This said Minocycline is member of this class of Tetracycline antibiotics and many persons assume all antibiotics in this class are the same, which is not true. Minocycline (sometimes spelled Minocycline) is more gram negative than its cousins and has shown effectiveness for Columnaris.

Maracyn 2 is a product that contains Minocycline
which treats Gram Negative bacteria.






http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Columnaris.html


<<Columnaris (often referred to in the past as "cotton wool disease" or "cotton mouth disease") is a warm water, gram negative strictly aerobic and nonhalophilic (meaning they do not live in saltwater conditions) bacterium often appears like a fungus (or more correctly; Saprolegnia) however it is not a fungus, although many treatments for fungus are effective for mild cases of Columnaris (Flexibacteria), which is why Erythromycin is a strange choice of treatment as it is rarely effective for either Fungus of Columnaris (yet is often suggested, which really makes me scratch my head as to why these sites suggest this treatment). >>


Same site and explanation of how medications work so you can decide which is best...

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Medication.html

As for how I treated - it depending on stage of progression (salt baths or if on tail of betta, dab of diluted h202 or real old fashioned mecurachrome - hard to find) and salt bath all done extremely gently - each transfer so on).

To... internal meds (from national fish pharmecia so depended on what I had in my med chest and research on how medications work (degree in psychology with one year of meds but forgotten so that link above was greatly helpful) along with baths.

This was one of their products I had on hand and used successfully for my dwarf neon rainbows along with baths of M2... and later gently salt bathes - several weeks. My ph at the time was high but not that high but this gave me the clue that it was ok in feed.>>

Oxytetracycline Hydrochloride

Fish Disease Diagnosis: Gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Marine ulcer disease, cold water disease, bacterial hemmorrhagic septicemia and mouth fungus.



Fish Disease Treatment: 1/4 teaspoon per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. 250 grams (treats 4000 gal.) Or, if mixed into feed, 2 teaspoons per pound of Koi pellets. Feed for 14 - 21 days.





If your pH is 8.0 or above, it is suggested to use this medication in the feed.>>



If aggressive I had to act aggressive with meds but most gentle for fish - hoping the live foods (or frozen) and meds would boost their immune systems. As they healed I would continue meds in food and go to straight salt treatment... sometimes it would take weeks, even months and often (most) the bettas were in such sorry state to begin with they would not make it. Many did however.

BTW even cory cats (learned from my old Dr. Innes book from way back) can be treated with salt bathes but as with all fish, one must start off with a low dose and gradually (more so with them) build it up over days then ditto for on the way back down. (unless wild caught a no no)

I try to avoid meds that harm kidneys so on...

Site for human grade meds and super information by professionals (can talk to Gary as well if you can get him)

Click top bar (disease prevention).... (then bottom link) never easy, lol.

http://www.fishyfarmacy.com/diseases.html

http://www.fishyfarmacy.com/

Bacterial: (or do searches to see what else "it" might be)

(I have these products but found them not as helpful as a bath - resistance perhaps??? save for in foods)

http://www.fishyfarmacy.com/fish_diseases/bacteria.html



http://www.fishyfarmacy.com/articles/columnaris.html



FlexiBacteria are involved, which cause Columnaris disease
Treat with: TMP Sulfa -or- Sulfa 4 TMP -or- Parinox.

(note the article on salt - great for hospital "stays" only if for fresh water fish)

Well have to go - hope this helps anyone with this problem.

Other links with references:

Vet Merck manual on bacterial diseases.


http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/170414.htm

The order Cytophogales (Myxobacterales, slime bacteria, fish slime bacteria) includes an important group of opportunistic pathogens of fish that are common inhabitants of soil and water. The gram-negative, rod or filamentous bacteria have a distinctive gliding motion and form palisading masses on infected tissue. Skin or gill lesions have slimy or cotton-like surface exudates, which usually cover surface necrosis, ulcerations, and marginal hemorrhages. Flavobacterium columnaris , the member of this group responsible for columnaris disease (cottonmouth disease, saddleback), is most common in warm water and warmwater species of fish. A presumptive diagnosis can be made from visualization of typical myxobacteria on wet mounts of infected skin or gill tissue. If the disease is diagnosed early in the course of infection, a treatment with potassium permanganate may be efficacious. If the disease becomes chronic, it may have become systemic, in which case treatment with oxytetracycline for 10 days is recommended. Columnaris disease can be confirmed by isolation of the organism on Ordal’s or other cytophage media. Sensitivity tests are difficult to perform because F columnaria will not grow on Müller-Hinton media. Columnaris disease can be prevented by reducing organic loading and avoiding traumatic injuries. Cytophaga psychrophila causes coldwater (peduncle) disease and fin and tail rot. It most commonly infects coldwater fish but can be found in warmwater fish subjected to low temperatures. The lesions are especially common on the dorsal, posterior surface of the fish under the dorsal fin but may be found on any part of the body. Advanced cases show necrosis and ulceration of the peduncle. Both Flavobacterium and Cytophaga infections can be controlled by oxytetracycline.



http://www.fishvet.com/columnaris.htm

Fish 'TB" and great photos references.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-07/sp/feature/index.php

http://www.flippersandfins.net/fishtankgranuloma.htm

http://emedicine.medscape.com/article/223363-overview



........................

http://www.proteomesci.com/content/8/1/26
 

sherryazure

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Jul 25, 2005
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Can't stop myself, lol.. (regardless of this outcome - these links are very hard to find these days - found years ago and now buried under askyahooo type of search results) some one may find it useful....


Great photos and information-

http://www.seymouraquariums.com/cauliflower_disease.htm

Another older link with photos (warning small harmless popup)

http://www.badmanstropicalfish.com/...sh_disease_identification_1.html#Lymphocystis

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/rainbowdisf.htm?h=Lymphocystis




How are you? Are you still traveling about in Egypt? I can't recall. Heck, I can't even keep my own schedule straight, let alone yours:-0



I wanted to "pick your brain" a little with regard to my newest fish drama. Long story short, I've got a 44 gal. planted FW tank, well-established, that's been home to 3 boesemanni rainbows for several years now. No new additions, regular water changes, etc. Temp = 77 degrees F, pH = 7.5. Tank also houses 2 emerald Corys, 4 platies, 2 Botia striata and 1 SAE. All have been with me for quite some time now; newest addition was 2 platies about 4 months ago (they were QT'd for a month!) Since the beginning, I've had issues with recurrent Lymphocystis on the largest of my male boesemanni.

As I understand it, this is a virus, thus never truly goes away. At one point (this was several years back), the problems were recurring on a more frequent basis, and I invested in a UV sterilizer. That seemed to help. When we moved 2-ish years ago, I didn't set up the sterilizer again, as the bulb was broken. I do have a replacement for it, but never got around to setting it up again, as the problems seemed to be virtually non-existent. In any case, I got some new food for the boesemanni (3mm Spectrum New Life sinking pellets), thinking they would appreciate something a bit more substantial than their usual 1mm pellet meal. I think the boesemanni at issue ate 2 of the larger pellets stuck together, and injured his mouth. This was approx. 1 week ago. I noticed that he couldn't shut his mouth. I stepped up the water changes, changed the filter media, etc., to prevent any secondary infection.


A few days later, the mouth was able to close more, but the Lymphocystis nodules were back in full force (the mouth area was always one of this fish's problem areas...seemed to be very susceptible to the virus). I am starting to worry, as it has been almost a week now. He's interested in food, but seems to be unable to swallow. I haven't used the larger pellets since this issue arose; the 1 mm pellets come right back out, as does the flaked food.

I'm afraid the virus could be obstructing his throat, or that he really hurt himself with the large pellet.


I can see into his mouth/throat - there doesn't appear to be any visible obstruction. What worries me is that the Bailey and Burgess book talks about this issue, and says it is "very important" to bring the affected fish to the vet for possible surgery. We don't have a "fish vet" in our area...so that doesn't appear to be an option. In fact, I've never encountered a vet that handles fish at all...



You could try a bath (higher concentration) of a Furan compound... but I'd likely leave the fish in and as is... focusing on improving and sustaining the best water quality here. BobF>
Jorie K. Johnson, J.D. Rainbowfish update 5/26/08
Bob, Neale:
Just wanted to let you both know that the boesemanni in question actually ate heartily last night; I fed the tank frozen, thawed bloodworms. He had previously been spitting out flakes and pellets, but happily consumed the worms. I am keeping water quality good (i.e., more water changes than usual) and hoping for the best. His mouth still doesn't look "normal", but hopefully in time it will. Still need to set up the UV sterilizer.
Thanks again, and hope you are both well.
Best, Jorie
<Hi Jorie. Thanks for the update. Sounds as if the fish is on the mend! Good luck, Neale.>




http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/pearlgfaqs.htm?h=

Lymphocystis is viral, but the virus only causes these cysts when conditions allow, typically poor water quality or the wrong water chemistry. It takes a long time to develop, rather than overnight. Exposure to heavy metals is a cause that's been identified in the wild. There's no cure for Lymphocystis, but it does go away by itself given time.>
 

fabiobruno

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Wow Sherryazure!! I've almost gone on information overload (lol).

Jokes apart thanks a lot for all these useful links, I'll have a better look at those tonight.

Meanwhile to answer Cerianthus and Mel questions: No I'm not mixing meds, just metronidazole, that I've now stopped on the 8th, and all in the main tank.
Tommy seems to be improving, still bloated but swimming better and the lesions are getting smaller (and no, I can't see any blood vessel). if it gets worse again I can try the method you suggested in your drawing.

No lumps on the two thick lipped gourami that died recently, and the first one I open it too (but I didn't know what to look for really).
I have minonicyclin and eritromycin, but I'm going to wait before adding any more antibiotic (incidentally I've read that I could get rid of my algae adding eritromycin: http://badmanstropicalfish.com/mb/mb16.html)

I also wanted to post a couple of pictures: update picture of Tommy (the usual left side with the major lesion) and a couple of pictures of my blue/green algae and the other fish.

As I've said, I believe Tommy is getting better and all other fish look very healthy so far.

tommy_sx_100912.jpg DSC_4497.JPG DSC_4498.JPG DSC_4496.JPG
 

Cerianthus

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Jul 9, 2008
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OMG! I was hoping members will narrow down the possibility utilizing their experiences instead of writing a book about fish health. I am sure all with good intention. Images will def assist provided that images are correct images as I found some images to be way off.

Algae in first pic is somewhat different type from 3rd pic. Is that correct? I really can not tell what they are from the pic other than difference in colors, that is if there are differences in colors.

Arer they growing on deco/rocks/art plant/live plants?????? Hoipefuly algae are on object you can remove.
It was my understanding that you mixed meds as duration of each treatment did not add up as per your posting. Perhaps my error in addition??

Anyway, glad to hear Tommy is healing nicely. I thought it was getting worse as per previous pics provided.

Good Luck with Tommy and reading materials provided by another member.
 

fabiobruno

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I think it is the same algae. It is on virtually everything, in particular live plants, rocks (I think that is artificial) and gravel. It is all the same type, the 2 pictures look different just because of the light, the first is on the rock, the second on the plant and the last one on the gravel.
The algae are of a very dark green, almost black, the description matches with the blue-green algae on the link I posted.
Surely light ON for ~13h helps the algae, maybe I should reduce that.

I didn't mix meds, I've given the fish both food medicated with metronidazole and metronidazole directly in the water. Medicated food for 6 consecutive days and metro in water every second day for 3 times in total (plus a couple of 25% WC with 2 TBSP of salt).


Today Tommy is again a little bit better, I'm not sure his stomach will ever be back to normal shape but I hope all the rest will be back to normal soon, I'll keep you posted.
 

mel_20_20

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Sep 1, 2008
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Hey Fabio, I'm glad Tommy is somewhat better.

Wow, that was some good info from Sherryazure. Most all of what she had were links and articles that I had found and read on the internet and copied and pasted into files on my laptop that crashed and burned. That saves me time finding all of that again. There were some new ones for me too, so I'm very grateful for all the information she posted.

I truly do believe, as she states, that years of experience are vital, (you and I have years to catch up on) and she has wonderfully extensive background and experience in fishkeeping and the diagnosing and treating of illness.

I like that she is a strong advocate for the serious study of professional and legitimate information that can be found, whether found through searches on the internet or otherwise, and for learning from the experiences of other experienced and learned fishkeepers. That's why this forum is so great!

It was a new thought to me, though, that the lumps emerging from the fish's skin, and the hard callous-like nodule in the Praecox's mouth could all be a result of Flavobacter Columnare, which she suggests based on her many years of experience with that particular bacterium and the many manifestations of it that she has seen and treated.

I guess it is worth seriously considering the possibility of starting treatment with antibiotics at this point. It does seem that the Metro helped improve the condition of Tommy and the others do seem significantly better. No way to know for sure about everything that is at work here.

Pristine water for sure can help, so I would continue with keeping the parameters perfect and in keeping the excessive organics out of the tank through regular, gentle vacuuming of the substrate, and speedy removal of uneaten food.

I would try to get Tommy to eat some nuked, skinned, english pea, just in case he may be constipated. Maybe that can help with his tummy.

You may want to go ahead and start the Maracyn and Maracyn 2 combo to treat this. It's up to you, but here's my thinking on this:

Sherryazure makes a good case that this could be FC, and if so then hesitating will not be a good thing. I agree with Cerianthus that Kanamycin is one I would choose as a first choice if this is FC, that and Furan 2 together are a powerful combo, but I think I remember that you have the two Maracyns and not those others.

Kanamycin can be hard on the kidneys, (though it's a moot point if you don't have that one anyway), and at this point we could wonder about the health of Tommy's kidneys, though Maracyn 2 (Minocycline) is not without risk as well, if his kidneys are damaged.

You could watch carefully for another day or two and jump on it if you see signs of worsening, or you could go ahead on the asumption that there must be a bacterial infection, likely FC, at work.

I must admit that at this point if I were in your shoes I'd have to give it a lot of thought. Another possibility would be the Interpet med that you used before, when you treated Tommy and Lucy, and though Lucy did die, Tommy recovered nicely.

Whatever you decide, we are all pulling for you and hope for the best for you and Tommy and the others.
 

mel_20_20

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I've been wondering, too, Fabio. I think of you and Tommy, often. Please give us an update.
 

fabiobruno

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Hi guys,

Well things were OK a couple of weeks back but last week Tommy started to get worse again, and the female boesemans also show some sort of lump under the scales, so I've started Metronidazole again (both in food and directly in the water) 4 days back.
Last time I added metro to the water every other day for 3 times, this time I'll try a longer cycle, maybe 6 times.
Thanks for asking :)
 

fabiobruno

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Hi everyone,

Just a quick update to let you know that Tommy passed to better life.
The antibiotic did the trick initially, Tommy had stopped eating but after 3 doses he started again, but in the last couple of days he got worse again and the died.
I had him for over 1 year and we fought a few problems before, but not this one that is going to wipe out all my fish, sooner or later.
The female Boeseman's is the next. She is super happy so far, but has got a couple of lumps on one side, so having seen the history she is cursed.
I've stopped adding metro to the water, I'll keep on giving medicated food for a few more days, but I can't continue forever...

Any other suggestion on how to stop this flagellum?
 
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