Healthy Angelfish with stuff hanging from his fins - keeps going away and coming back

[BettaFishMommy]

what i do when rinsing the test tubes is just do it under the tap with as hot of water as my hands can stand (which is pretty darn hot), and i rinse each tube and lid a few times over. i air dry mine but a q-tip would work well to dry them out too. i've never had false readings from any of my tests.

why are you letting your water stand for 24 hours? with using Prime, it is safe to go in the tank right away if you are not using any buffers in your water (ph, etc). if you're worried about the slight bit of ammonia you can do a hefty/double dose of Prime to detoxify the ammonia. it will still show on your test as ammonia but the Prime has converted it into ammonium, which is safe.

 

[Cerianthus]

Correct me if my understanding is off.

Pics posted on 5th is pretty clean, free of whatever is on the fins and no twisting/twirl on one of ventral fin near the end compared to first pics posted but pics posted on 9th has quiite a few attached with bit of twist as shown on last pic above (9th).
Am I correct?

Is this twirling/twisting only takes pace during infestations? Or is it just the photos and permanent?

I guess this reocurrence took place lot sooner this time and havnt disappeared in 24 hrs compared to prev incidents ?

What are those what looks like white specks on the glass and possibly on the plant leaf on 3rd pic from 9th post?

Do you have fully equipped q/t avail?

Maybe visible symptoms actually did not disappeared completely rather symptoms just subsided and reoccur depending on the changes in water conditions and/or other stimuli??

When and if youre aging water, should at least aerate.
Are you matching temp before using if tank is maintained higher than room temp?
If not, does these occurences take place right after wc? (It may be possible such temp fluct can trigger metabolism of microbes/parasites)

Last question: Have you noticed these white/transparent crust/clumps on any part of the body?

afa test tube goes, learned that if left bottles filled with clean water/capped after thorough rinsing until next use & rerinse before reusing, you should not have an issue with contamination due to possible (dried) residues left behind from prev tests.
I would not worry too much about small amt of NH3 either @ pH of 6.8 as long as it does not increase.

Pardon me for all the questions!

 

[sundragon]

what i do when rinsing the test tubes is just do it under the tap with as hot of water as my hands can stand (which is pretty darn hot), and i rinse each tube and lid a few times over. i air dry mine but a q-tip would work well to dry them out too. i've never had false readings from any of my tests.

why are you letting your water stand for 24 hours? with using Prime, it is safe to go in the tank right away if you are not using any buffers in your water (ph, etc). if you're worried about the slight bit of ammonia you can do a hefty/double dose of Prime to detoxify the ammonia. it will still show on your test as ammonia but the Prime has converted it into ammonium, which is safe.

I use hot water as well and air dry mine, I'm going to give it 24 hours and test again.

I trust Prime, but I like to let the water sit for 24 hours if I have the luxury of time to "age" it. It's an old habit when I had a tank as a kid.

I've added a dose of Prime to kill the ammonia - I am just wondering what brought it on.

 

[sundragon]

Correct me if my understanding is off.

Pics posted on 5th is pretty clean, free of whatever is on the fins and no twisting/twirl on one of ventral fin near the end compared to first pics posted but pics posted on 9th has quiite a few attached with bit of twist as shown on last pic above (9th).
Am I correct?

Is this twirling/twisting only takes pace during infestations? Or is it just the photos and permanent?

I guess this reocurrence took place lot sooner this time and havnt disappeared in 24 hrs compared to prev incidents ?

What are those what looks like white specks on the glass and possibly on the plant leaf on 3rd pic from 9th post?

Do you have fully equipped q/t avail?

Maybe visible symptoms actually did not disappeared completely rather symptoms just subsided and reoccur depending on the changes in water conditions and/or other stimuli??

When and if youre aging water, should at least aerate.
Are you matching temp before using if tank is maintained higher than room temp?
If not, does these occurences take place right after wc? (It may be possible such temp fluct can trigger metabolism of microbes/parasites)

Last question: Have you noticed these white/transparent crust/clumps on any part of the body?

afa test tube goes, learned that if left bottles filled with clean water/capped after thorough rinsing until next use & rerinse before reusing, you should not have an issue with contamination due to possible (dried) residues left behind from prev tests.
I would not worry too much about small amt of NH3 either @ pH of 6.8 as long as it does not increase.

Pardon me for all the questions!

I appreciate the thoroughness of your questions!

1. You are correct about the 5th vs 9th.
2. The twisting is permanent, it may not be apparent, but there was a bit of stuff hanging from the twist in the picture from the original post on the 12/30. It didn't reappear on the 5th or the 9th.
3. Yes it happened a lot sooner this time.
4. The white specs on the glass were either bubbles in the water column or water deposits.
5. The white bubbles on the plants are pearling that takes place, I believe, because of the CO2 - they float up to the surface.
6. I don't have a fully equipped quarantine tank.
7. I'm not matching the water temperature. I usually use cold water and allow it a day to warm up to the tank temperature. Otherwise, if time is limited, I use warmer water and a heater. I agree with the stimuli - the (large, cooler water) water change probably brought about the symptoms again, and if my memory serves me right, it happens after water changes - which means the new water, which is cooler, possibly could be reducing the immune response or helping the pathogen). The tank is ~80 degrees. I do not aerate the water that's in the buckets. I would think the act of pouring into the tank (similar to what the HOB filter does) would oxygenate the water...
8. I agree with you on the subsiding of the symptoms. Identifying the pathogen so I can treat it properly and rid the tank of it would be my next goal because if it starts manifesting all the time, it's getting worse.
9. No white or transparent clumps or lesions of any kind on it's body, ever.
10. None of the other fish have exhibited any symptoms like this.

The next water change will happen on Saturday - I can try to use warm water, prime, and not let it sit as an experiment.

Thanks again

 

[Cerianthus]

I appreciate the thoroughness of your questions! Out of habit, I guess.
I am here to refresh my memory as well as to learn something new.

1. You are correct about the 5th vs 9th. OK
2. The twisting is permanent, it may not be apparent, but there was a bit of stuff hanging from the twist in the picture from the original post on the 12/30. It didn't reappear on the 5th or the 9th.OK
3. Yes it happened a lot sooner this time.The white specs on the glass were either bubbles in the water column or water deposits. I dont know/think if these are bubbles.
4. The white bubbles on the plants are pearling that takes place, I believe, because of the CO2 - they float up to the surface. Really? These are actual bubbles (O2) gases: byproduct of photosynthesis?? Only on one type of plant? Is that a Sagittaria? Do you actually see them being produced and rising at night without any light? They looks more like pods/inverts. But again if so, should be on other plants as well.
5. I don't have a fully equipped quarantine tank.OK. Can you diy one out of bucket? All you need is small heater and aeration.
6. I'm not matching the water temperature. I usually use cold water and allow it a day to warm up to the tank temperature. Otherwise, if time is limited, I use warmer water and a heater. I agree with the stimuli - the (large, cooler water) water change probably brought about the symptoms again, and if my memory serves me right, it happens after water changes - which means the new water, which is cooler, possibly could be reducing the immune response or helping the pathogen). The tank is ~80 degrees. I do not aerate the water that's in the buckets. I would think the act of pouring into the tank (similar to what the HOB filter does) would oxygenate the water...All you gotta do is add some hot water (boiled cold water if you wish) right before adding to tank, closely matching temp.
7. I agree with you on the subsiding of the symptoms. Identifying the pathogen so I can treat it properly and rid the tank of it would be my next goal because if it starts manifesting all the time, it's getting worse. Hopefully by changing some of the ways you perform wc may yield better outcomes.
8. No white or transparent clumps or lesions of any kind on it's body, ever.OK. so it's not what I thought it was but what I thought usually accompanied with possible fin rot.
9. None of the other fish have exhibited any symptoms like this. OK

The next water change will happen on Saturday - I can try to use warm water, prime, and not let it sit as an experiment.OK. Will wait for your posting. Hope things get better. I could not suggest any meds since
1. Dont exactly know what it is
2. Even if I did know or even can speculate, meds I may recomm are
not plant friendly.

Those actually looks like blisters, reacting stimuli??? They dont fall off but gets smaller until reappear.

Hope all goes well and find the causes as well.

 

[sundragon]

I appreciate the thoroughness of your questions! Out of habit, I guess.
I am here to refresh my memory as well as to learn something new.

1. You are correct about the 5th vs 9th. OK
2. The twisting is permanent, it may not be apparent, but there was a bit of stuff hanging from the twist in the picture from the original post on the 12/30. It didn't reappear on the 5th or the 9th.OK
3. Yes it happened a lot sooner this time.The white specs on the glass were either bubbles in the water column or water deposits. I dont know/think if these are bubbles.
4. The white bubbles on the plants are pearling that takes place, I believe, because of the CO2 - they float up to the surface. Really? These are actual bubbles (O2) gases: byproduct of photosynthesis?? Only on one type of plant? Is that a Sagittaria? Do you actually see them being produced and rising at night without any light? They looks more like pods/inverts. But again if so, should be on other plants as well.
5. I don't have a fully equipped quarantine tank.OK. Can you diy one out of bucket? All you need is small heater and aeration.
6. I'm not matching the water temperature. I usually use cold water and allow it a day to warm up to the tank temperature. Otherwise, if time is limited, I use warmer water and a heater. I agree with the stimuli - the (large, cooler water) water change probably brought about the symptoms again, and if my memory serves me right, it happens after water changes - which means the new water, which is cooler, possibly could be reducing the immune response or helping the pathogen). The tank is ~80 degrees. I do not aerate the water that's in the buckets. I would think the act of pouring into the tank (similar to what the HOB filter does) would oxygenate the water...All you gotta do is add some hot water (boiled cold water if you wish) right before adding to tank, closely matching temp.
7. I agree with you on the subsiding of the symptoms. Identifying the pathogen so I can treat it properly and rid the tank of it would be my next goal because if it starts manifesting all the time, it's getting worse. Hopefully by changing some of the ways you perform wc may yield better outcomes.
8. No white or transparent clumps or lesions of any kind on it's body, ever.OK. so it's not what I thought it was but what I thought usually accompanied with possible fin rot.
9. None of the other fish have exhibited any symptoms like this. OK

The next water change will happen on Saturday - I can try to use warm water, prime, and not let it sit as an experiment.OK. Will wait for your posting. Hope things get better. I could not suggest any meds since
1. Dont exactly know what it is
2. Even if I did know or even can speculate, meds I may recomm are
not plant friendly.

Those actually looks like blisters, reacting stimuli??? They dont fall off but gets smaller until reappear.

Hope all goes well and find the causes as well.

I will warm the water with the next water change (though it's really not that much different from the tank water when I check it - which is why I didn't think it was an issue. I have friends who use cool water right out of the faucet dump it into the tank and add Prime to the tank - which I think is crazy - though their fish are fine...)

The bubbles are pearling, I'm sure as it happens on the Wisteria, Java ferns and the sword plants. Tiny little bubbles slowly appear and float to the surface. I've seen the same thing on CO2 planted tanks on Youtube and I'll try to get a short movie of it happening just in case. It only happens when the light is on - I assume this is because the plants are producing O2 - I don't see it happening at night.

I read online recently everyone should have a back up heater. I'm going to purchase one tomorrow and keep it just in case the one in the tank dies. I'll also buy a small air stone and pump and a cheap 5 gallon tank so I can use it as a back up. I'm not a huge fan of taking fish out of their environment as the shock of doing this can kill the fish or make them sicker - But you made me realize a good point. If it's necessary to use strong drugs that could upset the balance of the tank and thus cause harm to the other fish - better to do it in a quarantine tank...

I hope someone else who's reading this thread has seen these symptoms and can tell me what it is. It's puzzling that none of the other fish show any symptoms like this. I had a couple of other Angels that I gave a way because of aggression and none of them displayed these symptoms...

It looks like clumps of fungus or slime attached to nodules on the fins. It's hard getting the angel to pose in front of the black background - it makes it easy to see them. I would have guessed fin rot or fungus as it has never appeared on the body.

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[BettaFishMommy]

a cheap 5 gallon tank so I can use it as a back up.

i'd get a 10 gallon. there really isn't much price difference between a 5 and a 10 and a 10 gives you a lot more room for use as a qt/hospital tank.

 

[Cerianthus]

Did I really say 5 G?? LOL!.

It is true as Common 10G is cheaper than 5G if not close..

 

[sundragon]

i'd get a 10 gallon. there really isn't much price difference between a 5 and a 10 and a 10 gives you a lot more room for use as a qt/hospital tank.

Agreed, ive got an extra HOB filter to finish up the equipment list.

 

[sundragon]

Did I really say 5 G?? LOL!.

It is true as Common 10G is cheaper than 5G if not close..

I may have said it. I just dont want to spend a lot on this. I'll look on Craigslist for one.