Home depot bulb or lfs bulb?
- Thread starter M00n3at3r
- Start date
I agree. Though there is an exception. Sometimes we need to reduce organics to combat some algae or cyanobacteria, and when this is necessary a good vacuum of the substrate helps as you are then removing a major source of organics. But if light and nutrients (all 17) are in balance, leaving the substrate alone is better.
Byron.
Byron.
Everytime i change water i gravel vac. I get everywhere i can except around the heavy root feeders. I accidentally vaccuumed around my heavy root feeder once and must've pulled to much organics up because they didnt grow much for about 2 weeks.
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Previously I probably should have explained the rationale for not vacuuming the substrate in a planted tank. I did allude to the organics, and this is in fact the reason. It isn't as critical in a high-tech set-up where you add diffused CO2 and daily nutrients, but for those of us with natural or low-tech systems the substrate should be left alone. The waste that collects in the substrate is of course organic in nature, and as this is broken down by snails and then bacteria, dissolved organic carbon is released. This is the prime source for CO2 in a (natural or low-tech) planted tank. The CO2 released via respiration of fish, plants and bacteria is much less by comparison. So by doing any sort of cleaning of the detritus, you are removing a major plant nutrient (carbon).
Aside from this, there are other nutrients being produced from the organics. It is possible to never add nutrients via fertilizer, since everything the plants need is available from fish foods and water changes. Most of us have more plants than this will support, or we may have very soft water with no minerals, or the fish load may be minimal which obviously means less fish foods ending up as organics. But nevertheless, the value to the plants from the waste breaking down in the substrate is significant.
Another aspect is the host of bacteria. There are more bacteria, including the nitrifying strains, in the substrate than in the filter. A healthy substrate is important for healthy fish. There is much more in the way of bacterial processes involved than just the nitrifiers we all think/worry about. Maintaining a rich substrate provides the complete biological system that means healthier fish.
Now, having said all that in defense of leaving the substrate alone, there are some situations when this has to be handled differently. An excessive organic build-up causes primarily cyanobacteria, but various algae can take advantage too. An aquarium with too many fish for what the system can easily support will soon have problems, and removing the organics is key here. But when we are dealing with balanced biological systems, it is best to leave nature alone to do what it can do better than we can.
Byron.
Aside from this, there are other nutrients being produced from the organics. It is possible to never add nutrients via fertilizer, since everything the plants need is available from fish foods and water changes. Most of us have more plants than this will support, or we may have very soft water with no minerals, or the fish load may be minimal which obviously means less fish foods ending up as organics. But nevertheless, the value to the plants from the waste breaking down in the substrate is significant.
Another aspect is the host of bacteria. There are more bacteria, including the nitrifying strains, in the substrate than in the filter. A healthy substrate is important for healthy fish. There is much more in the way of bacterial processes involved than just the nitrifiers we all think/worry about. Maintaining a rich substrate provides the complete biological system that means healthier fish.
Now, having said all that in defense of leaving the substrate alone, there are some situations when this has to be handled differently. An excessive organic build-up causes primarily cyanobacteria, but various algae can take advantage too. An aquarium with too many fish for what the system can easily support will soon have problems, and removing the organics is key here. But when we are dealing with balanced biological systems, it is best to leave nature alone to do what it can do better than we can.
Byron.
ktrom, I'm with ya.
If you have a tank with some plants as opposed to a "planted tank", gravel vac away. My 55 is really a 'tank with plants'. If I let it get too planted, my angel cant around well.
Like Byron says, on a full blown planted tank, there's no need to.
If you have a tank with some plants as opposed to a "planted tank", gravel vac away. My 55 is really a 'tank with plants'. If I let it get too planted, my angel cant around well.
Like Byron says, on a full blown planted tank, there's no need to.
I updated the lighting in both of my tanks, I figured I'd momentarily go back to the original post lol. Tell me what you think!!!
Both tanks are under plant construction lol. I'm trying to get the 75g(first picture) stable, and I am just waiting until pay day to add more to the 29g(second picture).
Alright! Continue the discussion!! lol
Both tanks are under plant construction lol. I'm trying to get the 75g(first picture) stable, and I am just waiting until pay day to add more to the 29g(second picture).
Alright! Continue the discussion!! lol
That might be the most swords I have seen in a tank together ever aside from the LFS. You might have to feed it Total cereal to get enough iron (KIDDING!)
I think you would benefit from some height in the back, and your tank would benefit from having more fast growing stem plants. Wisteria is good for that, but maybe for variety and height you could add some Rotala Indica (or something else you like). Every LFS has Anacharis, and it is CHEAP, but honestly I have found it to be more trouble than it's worth. It's pickier than people let on, and it will melt at the drop of a hat (or pH)! I'm not sure if you have enough PAR for Glossostigma elatanoides in the 75, but a carpeting plant like that would be cool to fill in the spaces and stay low growing.
It may just be the picture, but it doesn't seem like your 29 is very brightly lit. Dwarf Sag or Val Americana would be a nice addition. It will spread on its own nicely if you space it out rather than plant it in a bunch. Plant it too closely together and it will not spread as much.
I think you would benefit from some height in the back, and your tank would benefit from having more fast growing stem plants. Wisteria is good for that, but maybe for variety and height you could add some Rotala Indica (or something else you like). Every LFS has Anacharis, and it is CHEAP, but honestly I have found it to be more trouble than it's worth. It's pickier than people let on, and it will melt at the drop of a hat (or pH)! I'm not sure if you have enough PAR for Glossostigma elatanoides in the 75, but a carpeting plant like that would be cool to fill in the spaces and stay low growing.
It may just be the picture, but it doesn't seem like your 29 is very brightly lit. Dwarf Sag or Val Americana would be a nice addition. It will spread on its own nicely if you space it out rather than plant it in a bunch. Plant it too closely together and it will not spread as much.
In the 75g I have 1.7wpg. There are 2 6500k and 2 5000k bulbs. It is very bright and looks great now that it is clean. I did a really heavy clean on saturday to try and get the algae gone. Now I can monitor the growth rate. I was thinking some cyperus hefri for the back, I am totally up for recommendations. I see all these beautifully planted tanks on google but I just can't seem to pull out the creativity for it. I have 10 swords in there I think. Definitely too much for the tank, but it was what I was good at growing. Now that I am venturing out more, I will take a few out. I think 3 should be a good number, give or take a couple. My LFS said they will take the ones I don't want. I just couldn't see throwing them away. In the 29g, it only has one 17w 6500k zoo med bulb so with the black gravel it is a little dark. I tried to adjust the shutter speed on my camera so it would allow for a more accurate image. It's still not exact, but that's the closest I could get it. Also open for plant ideas in that one. Just to help with the recommendations, 75g, no fertilizer besides flourish complete, 29g fourish complete and flourite gravel.
Are these 48-inch tubes? Which means four 48-inch tubes over the 75g? If yes, this is way too much; you will certainly have algae issues. I only have two of these over my 70g and I have to watch the duration or algae takes control. To balance this much light, you will need CO2 diffusion, plus daily nutrient dosing. Floating ploants would help, but not sufficiently to balance the high light.
You can't go by watts per gallon anymore, as the newer tubes are much more efficient that the older. Plus, intensity has to do with how the tube is made, the phosphors, and the wavelengths. As a simple example, the Life-Glo 6700K is twice the light intensity as the Aqua-Glo in the same sized T8. And the newer 32w tubes are brighter (more intensity) than the older 40w in the same length and type.
The photos below show my 70g, and the 5-foot 115g which has the identical same light (two T8 tubes in 6500K).
Byron.
