how important is substrate

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jasonG75

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To give you a perfect senario for using ADA soil or in my case Eco. After I get my 75gal setup I am going to setup my 20gal.
Probably going to use Eco but I want to plant HC on 60% of the substrate. So to achieve a good root system I am going to try the dry start method. I have a single Hagen T5HO 39w for this and I am going to get a splitter for the Co2. No life other than plants will be in the tank.

Starting a NEW tank is the only way I see using this stuff because of the ammonia levels.
 

rockhoe14er

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Jul 19, 2010
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To give you a perfect senario for using ADA soil or in my case Eco. After I get my 75gal setup I am going to setup my 20gal.
Probably going to use Eco but I want to plant HC on 60% of the substrate. So to achieve a good root system I am going to try the dry start method. I have a single Hagen T5HO 39w for this and I am going to get a splitter for the Co2. No life other than plants will be in the tank.

Starting a NEW tank is the only way I see using this stuff because of the ammonia levels.
are you going to get two needle valves for this?

yeah maybe if i can get another 10 gallon tank i'll start it up this way.
 

dundadundun

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Jan 21, 2009
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What is high tech about it?

If it is low light then I wouldn't worry about special substrates, the light will be your limiting factor. It is important to maintain balance with all the components of plants (light, CO2, ferts, substrate, temp, etc.). If it is out of balance that means you have excess of something, which will be used by something (usually some sort of algae).
i disagree.

low light tanks are usually for a goal... less maintenance and/or lower cost. a good substrate would further alleviate that situation while possibly providing much, if not almost all of what's necessary at lower uptake rates. makes maintaining a low-light tank easier just the same.

light will not be THE limiting factor in a tank where the substrate is completely inappropriate for the species it contains. never getting a foothold will kill a plant just as fast, if not faster than insufficient light in many cases.

excess is usually not the issue causing algae with the exception of ammo. for that things can be done easily. you can select a substrate that's inert out of the bag. you can mineralize your soil/aqua-soil. you can do the dsm coupled with an excel kicker to start after flooding the tank, then just wean the tank off of excel slowly, deliberately and completely as the plants fill in/take hold. you can add more plants. you can do more w/c's and add more ferts back in. etc., etc., etc., ...

low light tanks are often very heavy in root feeders and epiphytes as opposed to dutch aquascapes, amano style, etc. where the focus is often harder to grow, delicate plants and/or lots of stem plants grouped in bunches like patchwork quilts of life. a good substrate will provide a lot of benefits in such tanks... high cec, ph buffering, promotes good root health, etc., etc. ... which all promote healthier plants eliminating one possible source of any issues that arise down the road as well as avoids complicating other issues associated with low light tanks.

just like any other life forms, the more of and the better you meet any plants needs the healthier the plant will be and the more it will reward you with health, vigor, growth, reproduction, etc..



to me, a high light tank receiving lots of co2 and a steady, heavy fert regimen is a lot less likely to need a special substrate than a tank who's owners goals are to have something nice AND simple/practical/not the definition of obsessed/etc.. most of the needs in the high light tank are already provided at much more sufficient levels including the most important building blocks... carbon and light.

:huh:
 

rockhoe14er

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i disagree.

low light tanks are usually for a goal... less maintenance and/or lower cost. a good substrate would further alleviate that situation while possibly providing much, if not almost all of what's necessary at lower uptake rates. makes maintaining a low-light tank easier just the same.

light will not be THE limiting factor in a tank where the substrate is completely inappropriate for the species it contains. never getting a foothold will kill a plant just as fast, if not faster than insufficient light in many cases.

excess is usually not the issue causing algae with the exception of ammo. for that things can be done easily. you can select a substrate that's inert out of the bag. you can mineralize your soil/aqua-soil. you can do the dsm coupled with an excel kicker to start after flooding the tank, then just wean the tank off of excel slowly, deliberately and completely as the plants fill in/take hold. you can add more plants. you can do more w/c's and add more ferts back in. etc., etc., etc., ...

low light tanks are often very heavy in root feeders and epiphytes as opposed to dutch aquascapes, amano style, etc. where the focus is often harder to grow, delicate plants and/or lots of stem plants grouped in bunches like patchwork quilts of life. a good substrate will provide a lot of benefits in such tanks... high cec, ph buffering, promotes good root health, etc., etc. ... which all promote healthier plants eliminating one possible source of any issues that arise down the road as well as avoids complicating other issues associated with low light tanks.

just like any other life forms, the more of and the better you meet any plants needs the healthier the plant will be and the more it will reward you with health, vigor, growth, reproduction, etc..



to me, a high light tank receiving lots of co2 and a steady, heavy fert regimen is a lot less likely to need a special substrate than a tank who's owners goals are to have something nice AND simple/practical/not the definition of obsessed/etc.. most of the needs in the high light tank are already provided at much more sufficient levels including the most important building blocks... carbon and light.

:huh:

Great post dun thanks for chiming in. As of right now i do have excellent co2 levels and dose the EI fertz. All of the plants i have in the tank are stem plants with the exception of HC. So i guess an inert soil is fine for them.
 

tbone

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Be careful using root tabs, if too much of the root tab gets exposed. They can induce a green water outbreak. Just keep them buried and all should be well. Just a heads up.
 

rockhoe14er

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Be careful using root tabs, if too much of the root tab gets exposed. They can induce a green water outbreak. Just keep them buried and all should be well. Just a heads up.
Thanks for the heads up. So far I've been lucky and haven't had to deal with any green water.
 

dundadundun

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Jan 21, 2009
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no problem, rock.

side note; hc tends to like organics breaking down under it's roots, in my experience and from what i've read. you might want to pot them, mask the pots and let it grown from there if you have the opportunity.

also... just doing a w/c after any time you're into your substrate can prevent those issues related to such.
 
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