Out with the old, In with the new

[hultman]

For your particular situation, a halide will be the easiest route to go in order to get the intensity you want. Depending on the depth, you'll at least want a 150w.

Yeah, I was afraid of that. I hate lighting. My old systems used to have banks of ballasts on the wall and rubber end caps on the tubes that would stick and be a pain to get off. Wiring everywhere. That's one of the reasons I gave up the hobby. I HATE complicated lights!!:shakehead:

The little self-containded Current I have is really neat, fan cooled, but just not bright enough. Only 80 watts total. And the tank is a typical hex, 24 inches deep, so I'm going to have to get something better. But I refuse to start hanging ballasts around and dangling wires everywhere.

Any suggestions for a self-contained system, 24 inches or less long and totalling probably 250 Watts? Also, what K light range would I use if I go with just a Metal Halide? I'm used to having a range of lights of different ranges, actinics, daylights, etc. Is there one bulb that does it all?

Thanks for the help!

Jim

 

[Amphiprion]

The kelvin rating is up to you--it is more a matter of preference than actual necessity. What is important is PAR or photosynthetically available/active radiation. In other words, it is the amount of light within the photosynthetically needed spectrum. The higher PAR a lamp has, the "brighter" it is, regardless of whether or not it may look like it. It would be easiest just to use a single halide fixture--there's not even a need for fluorescents unless you want them. If you do get fluorescents, I recommend T5 lamps for color and intensity. To find what kelvin rating you may want for the halide, do some searching on people's tanks and see what they run.Again, you'll want at least 150w, but you may want more depending upon what you want to keep--basically plan for the future, otherwise you end up spending more in the long run. If you like Current brand products and fixtures, check out their 24" Outer Orbit fixtures or their Sunpod fixtures. Giesemann fixtures are nicer, but are significantly more. If you don't mind a bit of a DIY look, you'll get more bang for your buck by getting a ballast and reflector assembly separately. Reflectors like Lumenarc minis and Lumenbright minis will maximize the light from any bulb--basically more light for less wattage. You'll just have to buy a ballast and tidy up the work a bit. Otherwise, just stick with the fixtures.

 

[brackeeper75]

Thanks for the comments. I do have a couple old wet/dry setups from previous systems, and I was thinking that I should do something with one of them like you suggest. I am running one on the new 40, and I do have it set up with the bio media, but I also have live rock rubble in the first chamber. I think I will remove the bio media.

Do you have any mechanical filtration? I used to run Ehiems and the really big old Nu Clears but I'm thinking that was overkill and I don't have any on this system so far. My wet/dry isn't a big as yours, but I was thinking of maybe one of those sock filters in the return line?

Other than that, all I'm running are the wet/dry, the skimmer and a small 8W UV.

Jim

The only filtration I have is what you see in the pic. I was running a UV to help my Hippo get over her ich, however have shut that down now. My filtration is my live rock in the diaplay, my rubble in the sump, my skimmer, and my deep sand bed in my sump with chaeto in it. So I guess you would say only mechanical filtration is my skimmer. IMO in a salt tank the other mechanical filtration types just become nitrate factories.

Scott

 

[hultman]

IMO in a salt tank the other mechanical filtration types just become nitrate factories.Scott

I agree. I think I'll stick with what I've got, a simple sheet of filter material on the drip tray in the wet dry. If I need mechanical, I can always rev up the old diatom. Still love those things!:dance2: Nothing polishes water like they do!