How would i avoid dead spots without powerheads and would it work better with the overflow at one end of the tank and the return at the other?
Plumbing questions.
- Thread starter krytan
- Start date
It doesn't hurt to have them opposite. The closed loop system would have some means to direct flow to the necessary places--pvc, locline, etc.--so that dead spots are avoided. There are other things that can be added, as well, like eductors, which velocitize the effluent water.
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So the 180 is not reef ready.
Additional thoughts:
I’m not big on corner overflows or those overflows that go from the top all the way to the bottom of the tank, taking up too much space. For these kinds of overflows, the tank needs to be drilled through the bottom glass. Unless you know for sure that that glass is not tempered, you cannot drill. It will shatter into a million and one pieces. If you know the manufacturer of the tank, call and check if it is tempered. A lot of tanks have tempered bottoms, while a lot have un-tempered sides.
So, now that I’ve sold you on drilling the side glass, check out www.glass-holes.com. You can buy an entire overflow kit, including the drill bit, bulkheads, durso like elbows and two nuts who run the company who will give you all the support you need. I would recommend, at a minimum, their 1500 kit (about $95 US). It is very small and therefore takes up very little space. (Is this last state profound?). It’s baffled and has custom dursos, so it’s nice and quiet. And for the 1500, it has two 1 ½ inch lines coming off the back. I really like these overflows. Highly recommended…and the package comes with a couple pieces of candy….can’t beat that.
If you go with a 1500 gph overflow, I would suggest a Mag 18. Still tee off the return, just in case you need to throttle back some of the water. I would also bring up the one return line to the level of the top of the tank, throw in a tee sending lines out parallel to the top of the tank, and slapping on threaded elbows on either end so that you could use two loc-line setups to distribute the return water. A single return of a Mag 18 or 24 is too much water coming out one feed line.
Just my two cents.
Additional thoughts:
I’m not big on corner overflows or those overflows that go from the top all the way to the bottom of the tank, taking up too much space. For these kinds of overflows, the tank needs to be drilled through the bottom glass. Unless you know for sure that that glass is not tempered, you cannot drill. It will shatter into a million and one pieces. If you know the manufacturer of the tank, call and check if it is tempered. A lot of tanks have tempered bottoms, while a lot have un-tempered sides.
So, now that I’ve sold you on drilling the side glass, check out www.glass-holes.com. You can buy an entire overflow kit, including the drill bit, bulkheads, durso like elbows and two nuts who run the company who will give you all the support you need. I would recommend, at a minimum, their 1500 kit (about $95 US). It is very small and therefore takes up very little space. (Is this last state profound?). It’s baffled and has custom dursos, so it’s nice and quiet. And for the 1500, it has two 1 ½ inch lines coming off the back. I really like these overflows. Highly recommended…and the package comes with a couple pieces of candy….can’t beat that.
If you go with a 1500 gph overflow, I would suggest a Mag 18. Still tee off the return, just in case you need to throttle back some of the water. I would also bring up the one return line to the level of the top of the tank, throw in a tee sending lines out parallel to the top of the tank, and slapping on threaded elbows on either end so that you could use two loc-line setups to distribute the return water. A single return of a Mag 18 or 24 is too much water coming out one feed line.
Just my two cents.
do your self a favour and go with all 1-1/2" drains and 1-1/2" returns untill you hit your 1" manifold for returns. I personally would stay away from mags. use a tun of power. save some money and buy a nice quiet pump thats great on power. you'll be happier down the road!
No the tank is not reef ready and i didn't want to drill the bottom of the tank. I like the idea of running a closed loop but am still unsure if the 5800gph reeflo is the right pump (do they make a smaller one?).
Does anyone know of a good link describing how to plumb in a closed loop system?
So i would need a 1 1/2" hole for the return as well as the overflows? and do i only need to drill the three holes for a closed loop or are more going to be needed? It would be cool if all the holes could be the same size so i would only have to order the one drill bit.
Does anyone know of a good link describing how to plumb in a closed loop system?
So i would need a 1 1/2" hole for the return as well as the overflows? and do i only need to drill the three holes for a closed loop or are more going to be needed? It would be cool if all the holes could be the same size so i would only have to order the one drill bit.
Here is some pic of the closed loop i made...my holes were in the bottom, but, that was my preference, as they can be in the back aswell..The sandbed covered all the pipework, and the end nozzles were not glued so i could chose the direction of the flow..
My Nozzles..
My Drills off Ebay..about 5 squid each..
Krytan, Reeflo makes a few different pumps, from the snapper (somewhere around 2500gph) up to the Hammerhead (5800gph). They seem to be high on the list of preferred pumps for most reefers. You can drill as many holes for the closed loop as you want...there is always the option of running plumbing over the top as well, if the topwill be hidden with a canopy you won't even see it.
