the infamous 5 gallon diy canister filter. can it be done????

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iamvictor2k

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Jan 19, 2010
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No criticism from me, I'm just relating what I found out using a proportionally smaller, thicker and therefore stronger canister, and it had a built in silicone O-ring. It worked great on a stool 7" below the tank water line for as long as I ran it for months, but not under the tank not even 1/2 way under.
Doing it again I would use rigid, non pliable, water proof, re-enforced container with O-ring compression seal. Actially Im making one now but I wont post until its been tested, another 2 weeks.
o come on we want to see you fail or succeed. I mean if your scared say your scared. im doing it as im going using only the mistakes of other thread posters and sum great mech knowledge.
 

dundadundun

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Jan 21, 2009
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:laugh: have you seen gunner's threads? don't temp him, he'll do it. :grinyes:

all in good fun ofcourse.
 

iamvictor2k

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i installed the barb nipple pvc adapters and pipe/tubes today. i have a vary small submersible pump made for the bottom of boats installed at the bottom of the bucket. sad to say, as i expected, is not powerful enough to push the water high enough to reach my tank height. it was about 3 inches short. it was enough for me to get a great test run at a slightly lower height and to allow me to fined a fitting i just so happened to forget to put the wrench on. when i started i had only the hooks holding the lid. they did a very good job at holding the pressure but still wasnt enough. i figured i might have that problem so i had already came to 2 solutions. one was the cheapest for me since i had the bolts laying around.(see pic) 2nd was to cut a peice of thick metal to form a band around the lid lip and drill holes for the hooks to go threw. either way i needed to create even pressure across the whole. in testing i found that my new method worked very well. it will hold the pressure without leaking a drop at 8 ft.(the length of each hose). i didnt want to put yet another hole/ fittings in the lid so i ran the power line out of the intake hose into the bucket. i filled the inside of the bucket to the brim with polly fill to establish a decent base line for suction vs. pressure in the bucket. very pleased with the results and very confident that this will work well for a very long time. i have all my supply's i need to set up the filter except for the upgraded pump. once i have that i will be able to complete my project. i think i will get a pump from a non working dishwasher or clothes washer off craigs list from free section. if i cant fined a nice used submersible for cheap.
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nc0gnet0

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What you are forgetting is the process used on such a lid to open it...... You pry up one side of the lid to "unsnap" the friction seal. If you ever have re-used a bucket several times you will notice that the opening process fatigues the lid and it eventually warps up which IMHO is a leak waiting to happen. Not only is this a problem, but the bending process will also break the seal of the bulkhead......

You need to figure out a way that would enable you to open the lid without having to bend it, in otherwords lift it straight up. This requires a more rigid lid.

I used to see 5 gallon igloo containers that had a screw on lid, not sure if you can still find them though.

The holy grail of such a project is finding the perfect container that is still cost effective for a DIY'er. I nice section of a 10" inner diameter schedule 40 pvc pipe might be another workable solution........
 

nc0gnet0

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I wouldn't suggest using a dishwasher pump, there not designed for 24/7 operation. You would be better served with a pump made for a sump tank which can be had for less than 30 bucks at numerous places.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rio-1100-submer...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20ad8b3bc5

You can also find used ones even cheaper if you want to go that route.
And BTW, much better on the Pics!

I suppose if you use enough clamps it might work, but how long does it take you to open the lid? Might I suggest somehow reinforcing the top of the lid where your clamps make contact? This would help to more evenly distrubute the pressure apllied and should reduce the number of clamps you needed to use.
 

Sploke

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Find some reefing friends...several types of marine salt mix come in buckets with screw-on lids, I have a few I'd give away if someone local asked me.

If it works like that, good deal, but I would dread having to open that and put it all back together again.
 

nc0gnet0

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Interesting, I have never seen a five gallon bucket with a screw on lid, that would have potential indeed, the only drawback would be that any plumbing threw the lid would have to be centered, but still very doable..........
 

iamvictor2k

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What you are forgetting is the process used on such a lid to open it...... You pry up one side of the lid to "unsnap" the friction seal. If you ever have re-used a bucket several times you will notice that the opening process fatigues the lid and it eventually warps up which IMHO is a leak waiting to happen. Not only is this a problem, but the bending process will also break the seal of the bulkhead......

You need to figure out a way that would enable you to open the lid without having to bend it, in otherwords lift it straight up. This requires a more rigid lid.

I used to see 5 gallon igloo containers that had a screw on lid, not sure if you can still find them though.

The holy grail of such a project is finding the perfect container that is still cost effective for a DIY'er. I nice section of a 10" inner diameter schedule 40 pvc pipe might be another workable solution........
if you would read previous pages you would know that my goal is to use a regular 5 gallon bucket and lid and be sucsessfull. and if there is equil pressure over the lip of the bucket lid that is greater than the pressure of the water then no leaks. but only time will tell and i will let you know if it fails.
 

iamvictor2k

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Find some reefing friends...several types of marine salt mix come in buckets with screw-on lids, I have a few I'd give away if someone local asked me.

If it works like that, good deal, but I would dread having to open that and put it all back together again.
yes i agree that it would be slightly unplesent task but it looks alot worse than it is. next time i remove the lid to install the pump and substrate i will time the install and removal and post it.
also this is the cheapest and quickest way for me at the current time to build the project. i have more ideas to expediate the process and make upgrades to the 5 gallon bucket that will be acomplished after initial goal of making a canister filter with regular bucket and lid and items found from hardware store.
 

coach_z

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does the pump on the bottom push the water up through the filter media, squeeze it against the lid and then out of the hole on the top? how about a redesign that pulls the water through the filter media and directly out of a fitting at the top of the lid. i imagine that this would cause much less presure on the lid and you wouldnt need to seal that thing down quite as well.
 
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