The only reason it would crack is if it were dragged across the floor. Just standing on the floor it's not going to splinter.
Aquarium stand design O.K.?
- Thread starter wanabedriver
- Start date
If you've got shims under the four posts, which is the right way, all the weight is on those posts and shims. Not to worry though. It'll hold.
mellowvision
Seafood Lover
I think you missed the point of what I was saying. The shims he used are end grain slices of 4x4. These will eventually crack, since end grain has very little strength and dries out quickly. For the long term, a more appropriate shim, such as plastic shims made for the purpose, would be a better solution.
That solution would make me very nervous, gotta say. I would be concerned over time that those cross cut blocks would degrade/compress, causing your tank to no longer be leveled which could put pressure on teh seams.
I use metal shims under my stands (granted they are 3 tiered and quite huge) for peace of mind. The last thing you want to do is cut corners and then have it backfire. I would rather be safe than sorry.
While you are getting a lot of opinions on what is safe, the bottom line is NO ONE wants that much water on their floors or the stress of dealing with replacing a tank or figuring out what to do with fish flopping on the floor until you can get a new tank. Why gamble at all?
I use metal shims under my stands (granted they are 3 tiered and quite huge) for peace of mind. The last thing you want to do is cut corners and then have it backfire. I would rather be safe than sorry.
While you are getting a lot of opinions on what is safe, the bottom line is NO ONE wants that much water on their floors or the stress of dealing with replacing a tank or figuring out what to do with fish flopping on the floor until you can get a new tank. Why gamble at all?
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I concede that point. I missed the type of shim. Wood shims as would be used to shim a door jamb or a window or even shakes would however be totally appropriate and would last just about a lifetime. I used them when I redid the window tank at my last house and the current owner hasn't had a problem with it. That makes it 24 years still in place and level.
so even though the grain in the shim is perpendicular to the ground, just as it is in the leg, it is more prone to cracking? At what depth would cracking no longer be a concern (shim is ~.25", leg is 28"...)? Would gluing the shim on prevent cracking by 'tying' it together?
The bottom frame is level on my floor; if the shims are removed, the weight would be bearing on this frame. I was just worried that the 14" wide base would be too narrow. Not sure how this 'helps' my design...
I'm assuming shimming it with a different piece of wood (grain parallel to ground) be a better temporary solution? Not sure if I will be able to lift it though, since it has been filled.... perhaps a piece of tile?
Thank you all for the concern, I appreciate it.
The bottom frame is level on my floor; if the shims are removed, the weight would be bearing on this frame. I was just worried that the 14" wide base would be too narrow. Not sure how this 'helps' my design...
I'm assuming shimming it with a different piece of wood (grain parallel to ground) be a better temporary solution? Not sure if I will be able to lift it though, since it has been filled.... perhaps a piece of tile?
Thank you all for the concern, I appreciate it.
It's the fact that in a crosscut piece that's 1/16 or 1/8 thick there's nothing to hold it together. The shim packages you buy have the grain running in the length of the wedge not the thickness. Your leg won't splinter unless you drag it across the floor. What is usually done with a leg, for example a table leg is to sand over the bottom of the leg. Round it over a bit. It removes most of the tendencies for it to splinter. Since your tank is in place my advice to you is to leave it alone. If it's level don't worry about it. It won't splinter just sitting there. With my metal stands I use a dime or a nickel for a shim.
After looking at the stand picture and the drawings even if the shim should crack they won't totally disintegrate. You have 4 x 4 shims with at least 4 inches of wood sitting on it. I wouldn't have a problem with that. Not saying I would do it that way but I doubt it would crack enough to topple the tank. Or even put it out of level if it is level now. Your carpet compressing would be more of a concern than the shims
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:iagree: Tile could also crack if not cemented to the ground. If there is a big enough gap, HD or Lowes sells 1/4 plywood that would work, and resist warping too. You could then use wood shims to fine tune. Or scrap paneling if you have some of that lying around...
mellowvision
Seafood Lover
I think the last two points explain it well, the carpet will compact over time, so it's best to use a more substantial shim.
Shouldn't the carpet be theoretically uniform, resulting in an even compacting?
Then again, it was theoretically level to begin with, and my stand was theoretically level when I built it...
Then again, it was theoretically level to begin with, and my stand was theoretically level when I built it...
