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Glass canopies for long tanks come in two sections, so it would be easy enough to use just one section of that. Screen tops are usually full length, though; either make a DIY one or cut an existing top in half. You can secure the screen top with clips.

If I knew how to tell mosses apart, I reckon I'd be a bryologist. :D I just want to get things clarified, 'cause it does just say 'Plant ID' in the title.

Plants will compete with algae for nutrients (not silica, but nitrogen, phosphorus, etc.).

Sounds like a fun game, but what are the limits? Only plants in the aquarium trade? Can we include marginals and emergents? Aquatic trees? Algae?

I've used both glass and screen. I don't recommend full screen; you'll need to cover at least part of it with an impermeable material. Live plants help with air quality. If you're keeping fish you'll likely need an air pump, which will also help.

They can catch small fish, up to approximately their own size.

Definitely a dragonfly. Looks like a libellulid, which in your area would most likely be a darter (Sympetrum) or chaser (Libellula).

I would use a glass top rather than a screen top; it should be heavy enough to prevent escapes for the most part, and will help maintain humidity. Just cut away enough of the plastic curtain at the rear edge to make room for the canister hoses.

I heard a second-hand story about a university student (the storyteller's roommate) who captured neighborhood cats to feed to his python when he couldn't afford to buy rabbits or chickens. He was caught when a visitor opened up the drawer where he, for some reason, kept all the cat collars- her...

Mgamer hinted at this- if you are going to have a CO2 system, canisters may be better. Otherwise, go with a sump. It goves you far more control and more filtration volume.

Pine sap is toxic, but that pine looks weathered enough to be inert. It couldn't hurt to drill a few test holes in hidden areas, though; if it's gray through and through, it's fine.

Be sure to vacuum the tank regularly; otherwise the silicates in the shells of dead diatoms will be available to the new generations. The only tank I had diatom problems in was an acrylic tank, but had chert (silicate) substrate; it took about 8 weeks for the diatoms to clear up. Some fish...

I'm picking out lights for a new 55, which will be low tech (no CO2 or Fluorish) with a few mosses, Riccia fluitans, and red Ludwigia palustris. I need help choosing an appropriate, affordable fixture. I came across this...

I second the slate plan- you're going to need to anchor that sucker down. The time it will take to become waterlogged is unpredictable. Just attach a big piece of slate to the bottom with stainless steel screws. Then you not only have the weight of the slate itself, you can pile gravel and...

I'm not sure I understand your drain question. Is this for water going to the sump from the main pool, or is it a cleaning drain? If the former, you will need the openings to be at the planned water surface, so you will need a standpipe of some kind. Will you have a hole in the bottom of...

That's gonna be an awesome setup! How about some big cats (redtail, shovelnose, etc.)?

They're big eaters, so be prepared to perform frequent water changes.

Yeah, just spray into the tank. Use a fine mist so it hangs in the air a while. Daily is not necessary, especially with a glass top. How big are the tads now? They will generally metamorphose at about 2" in length (at least for southern leopards; do you happen to know which species yours are...

1) Ranids are easy. Room temp, water and land, hide spots, plenty of live invertebrate prey, don't let the humidity drop too low, and they're happy. Tropical frogs are more demanding. 2) Leopards are powerful jumpers and are prone to breaking their noses on the glass if startled. Therefore...

It's possible they were some other livebearer species that had gotten mixed in with the guppies. Gambusia affinis look very much like large, plain guppies.