150 Gallon Build Thread ... From the Start

2- you can spray paint them black and they will blend in with black background (something i might be doing)

Question: Using the same krylon fussion paint that I will be using for the back?

Question: How far would you suggest I go with the paint - all Eheim parts that will be in the tank get turned black?

Question: How long should I let them dry?
 
black silicone if you can. the aqueon tank is not offered in black silicone, so my LFS is seeing if they can get me one made in black. Aqueon only makes their bowfront tanks in black silicone.

I am seeing if they can make me a 150 in black.

black is way better. doesn't show up inevitable algae over time.

I am hoping they can do it for me...

your LFS would have to do what mine is doing: cointact Aqueon directly and see if they can do it.

Aqueon makes great tanks but they are behind the times in terms of silicone- black is IN these days - more and more Perfecto/Marineland tanks are being made with black - its probably becoming the more popular choice. However, their 150 is not yet made with black silicone either...their 125 is though..

later today I can post pics of my 65 salt with black sillicone if you want to see a tank in black seals.
 
Last edited:
cfsinc,

I just read this entire thread (all 37 pages!) and I though I’d add my two cents since I am just finishing with a setup very similar to your goal. I shopped for months and have just started fishless cycling for my 150 gallon aquarium. You may or may not benefit from the choices I ended up going with.

Tank: After endless research, I chose to go with a tank from Glasscages.com. I struggled with the 135 gallon (72” x 18” x 25”) and the 180 gallon-Tall (72” x 18” x 31”). Ultimately, I ended up having them do a custom of 72” x 18” x 28”. They charged me the same as the 180G due to the thicker glass needed above 135G, but I got exactly what I wanted – a taller, more encompassing view that is slightly more manageable to maintain (meaning reach). The biggest challenge with Glasscages is waiting on their delivery schedule where they will meet you near to one of their planned stops. This saves a lot of $$ in shipping, but is not as convenient as just picking up a tank from the LFS.

For the stand and canopy, I purchased these from Glasscages as well. These are unfinished oak and oak veneer (with solid, high quality plywood). I think the quality of the stand and canopy is superior to the nicely finished products I see at stores, and I can easily attain the same color and finish with a little effort. Just my preference, however, and I understand anybody’s desire to go with a prefab product that needs no work.

Stand: 30” stand height to allow room for filters, etc. This further aggravates access to the tank, but also accentuates the look of the taller tank by putting it closer to window height. If I’d gone with the 24” standard height, I’m not sure my filters would have fit.

Canopy: Look carefully at the canopy to see how you will be mounting any lights. Some canopies have internal framing that may get in the way of some light combinations. The canopy I got from Glasscages has a center brace, but it has a cutout in the center to allow for light fixtures to pass through.

Lights: Like you, I did a lot of searching. I finally settled upon a kit from AH Supply. I went with the 2 x 96 watt kit, which was a relative bargain at $115 (plus bulbs). The two reflectors sit end to end within my canopy. The assembly was simple and the result seems like more than enough light to me, but I don’t plan on live plants. You could double up on this configuration and mount them on a 1” x 6” plank of wood (see below). I also added LED moon lights by mounting six LED fixtures in daisy chain fashion at the top of my canopy, behind the fluorescents. I put both sets of lights on separate timers and it works great.

Light Mounting: At the suggestion of AH Supply, I put my lights on a 1” x 4” plank of wood that is 71” long (the inside length of the canopy). The ballast is mounted on the back of this same piece of wood. I then use 1” x 2” pieces of wood on the inside ends of the canopy to serve as rails for the lighting board to rest on. This gave me the ability to slide the lights forward and backward. When I slide them backward, I can open the glass tops and access the tank for cleaning, etc. This is a very important point – if I were not able to move the lights freely, then my access to the tank would be very limited, or the lights would be mounted too far to the rear. Also, I can remove the lights without removing the canopy.

Filters: One Eheim 2217 and one Eheim 2028. Seems like plenty of filtering and water movement to me, though I may add a spongefilter on a powerhead in the future. The standard hose lengths of the 2217 are too short for a tall tank in a tall stand (remember, I went with a 30” stand rather than the standard 24”). I had to order additional hoses to get the 2217 up and running. The 2028 hoses were just long enough. Though the 2217 was much cheaper (got it with a full media and spray bar kit for $115), the 2028 is a better design (as you’d expect for $280 or so). The 2028 has much nicer spray bar, tubing, etc., but both work well and are absolutely silent. I really like the basket design of the 2028, which will make maintenance much easier.

Anyway, there’s much more detail I haven’t gone into and I’d be happy to share with anybody, but I’ve probably gone on too long.

Good luck.

roadracr
 
AquariaCentral.com