230 Tank Build

Kcress and 7 - thanks for the reply. I am trying to find something I can use to grab a hold of the large nuts. The wrench from Kcress's link is great, but it is not big enough.

As for moving the plumbing. I'll cut it out and replace if I must. Whatever it takes to make these bulkheads water tight. For now, I am at a loss. I am going to make the rounds to a few local plumbing supply outlets as well as Lowes and Home Depot this afternoon. I can only hope I can find something, but I am not optimisitic.
 
Good luck Rudy - here is one area I learned the hard way the value of threaded unions. so you can remove large sections of plumbing without having to cut. If you do have to cut pieces out, you might consider using threaded unions when you replace it to facilitate removal in the future if necessary.

Also, another thing that I learned the hard way - bulkheads are just as likely to leak when they are OVERTIGHTENED as they are if undertightened. If you overtighten them, it can stretch/warp the rubber seal and cause a break in the seal. just something to keep in mind - it really sucks trying to fix a bulkhead when you keep cranking it and cranking it and it doesn't stop seeping (yeah, ask me how i know).
 
Sploke - thanks for the feedback. I just hope I can find a tool to tighten them. For what it is worth, my Dad told me the same thing about a threaded unions just prior to all bulkheads. :cry:
 
I read somewhere that you usually have to tighten bulkheads twice, when you install them and after you install the pipes and fittings because they get loose. Maybe you could add some silicone to the outside of the bulkhead after it's been tighten just in case.
 
leoslizards said:
I read somewhere that you usually have to tighten bulkheads twice, when you install them and after you install the pipes and fittings because they get loose. Maybe you could add some silicone to the outside of the bulkhead after it's been tighten just in case.
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Not a bad idea. What do I have to lose short of completely disconneting everything in an attempt to gain full access. :jaw:

Worth the attempt. Thanks
 
The normal thing is to tighten with the hand till tight then add about another quarter turn. Using channel lock pliers. That's pretty much the SOP. (Standard Operating Protocol)

The gasket always goes against the bulkhead lip regardless of inside or outside.

Some put Teflon tape on the threads, I don't.

One trick is to use Crisco on the nut face and threads. It is plant based lube that will not harm fish.

If you grease or Teflon the threads be careful as you can apply much higher force to the bulkhead surfaces than you think you are.

Never use cheap bulkheads or you will likely regret it as they can later actually increase in price - retroactively.
 
kcress said:
Never use cheap bulkheads or you will likely regret it as they can later actually increase in price - retroactively.
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That's the second time I've heard of the crisco secret versus silicone.

I am using the bulkheads which came with my tank from Glasscages.com They appear solid.
 
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Kcress - Good looking out Bro

This is the one I think I need to find. The others would not work well from a vertical angle of attack. Now where can I find it?

Bulkhead%20Wrench.jpg
 
If you can find an open-end wrench large enough, just get a torch and heat it to make it a crow's foot wrench. It wouldn't have the fancy pivot like the one pictured, but would probably be just as effective.
 
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