The reason I asked how old the light bulb is that old bulbs tend to promote algae blooms, as odd as it seems get a new bulb and it will grow less algae.
29 gallon fs tank needs help
- Thread starter kb06688
- Start date
How often, and how much water do you change?
If you do often enough water changes you can physically remove the green before it can even grow.
If you do often enough water changes you can physically remove the green before it can even grow.
I barely ever changed the water. I dident have time then, and now I do have more time then I did when i was in college. So I was thinking about getting all new rocks and putting the tank in the bath tube with the decorations and getting some bleach and water and cleaning everyrhing freshly. Any more ideas? im open to try anything.
There's your problem. By not changing water, the nitrates (byproduct of fish waste) have built up really high. Those are food for plants, hence algae bloom. If you haven't changed your water in a long time, start out slow, or else the shock of clean water can kill your fish (or at least make them sick). Do a search on the forum for "old tank syndrome" to see how to remedy it.kb06688 said:
Once you get back on a good water changing schedule, keep up with tank maintenance, or else the problem will come back.
OK i took the blankets off the tank and i have to say the tank is not as green as it was, i can see the fish better now. I siphond some water out and cleaned a part of the rocks on the bottom and added new water, adding conditioner first of course. I got a new light bulb from my LFS. I will change like 4-6 gallons about every week? and should I put a new filter in soon? as the one in there is still flowing decently. I forgot to pick up more filters. Also my friends dad wants to get rid of his 75 gallon tank he hasent used in like 10 years. I think I can take it off his hands... bigger tank a bit easier to take care of. Later.
Don't change your filter, thats where your beneficial bacteria is that breaks down the waste in your tank. When you siphon your water out, rinse the filter
in tank water and then put it back in. Dont wash the filter in tap water or you will kill all the bacteria.
Getting a free 75 gallon tank would be awesome.
in tank water and then put it back in. Dont wash the filter in tap water or you will kill all the bacteria.
Getting a free 75 gallon tank would be awesome.
Yep, seems contradictory that larger tanks are easier, but it's because you have more room for error, so you're exactly right. Especially if it's lightly stocked, you can go longer without the need for water changes.kb06688 said:
I have 4 tanks and I make the time to change my water twice a week (50% each time) in my larger tanks. my smaller tanks sometimes I change everyday or two.
getting a test kit will help you, too, because they tell you exactly when a water change needs to be done. the liquid drop tests are much more reliable and easy to read than the strip/dip tests (I know from personal experience).
ideally, ammonia and nitrite should be at zero, nitrate below 20 ppm (less is even better).
glad to hear you're back at home (or at least with your aquarium), and are willing to take the time to make it nice again!
actually I have a test kit. I justr did a test of the water and the PH is about 6.5 - 7.0, No ammonia in the water, and no nitrites. There is a lot of nitrates though, 40 - 160 i cant tell because the red on the chart is to hard to tell the last three, 40, 80, and 160 are so close together in red. I guess thats a bit high and I need to lower it. How can I bring this level down? will the weekly, or like every 4 days of a 14 to 20 percent water change do good?
that makes sense, since it's a mature tank. It has an abundant nitrifying bacteria population that has converted all wastes to nitrate, hence the through-the-roof nitrate reading. explains the low pH, too, as the wastes have turned your water acidic.
yes, eventually you should aim for at least 25% a week (50% is even better) water changes. but like I said, start off slow. your fish have gotten used to dirty water that is thick with all kinds of their own waste products, not just nitrate, and the shock of clean water could kill them. aquatic organisms are very sensitive not only to poor water quality, but also rapid changes in water quality (even if it's for the better).
I think the recommended schedule is 5-10% a day for awhile, and then when most of the water is clean, keep up with the 25-50% weekly schedule. I'm not sure, though, since I've never dealt with OTS myself. Again, search the forums for "old tank syndrome" or Google it, and come up with a solution that sounds reasonable and works for you. or else maybe someone else has a "prescription" that they can post here for you.
again, good job. i'm glad you decided not to scrap the whole tank. it'll be hard work to get it back up to speed, but your fishies will thank you. Plus, you'll have learned so much from all of it. They don't teach you that in college, do they?
yes, eventually you should aim for at least 25% a week (50% is even better) water changes. but like I said, start off slow. your fish have gotten used to dirty water that is thick with all kinds of their own waste products, not just nitrate, and the shock of clean water could kill them. aquatic organisms are very sensitive not only to poor water quality, but also rapid changes in water quality (even if it's for the better).
I think the recommended schedule is 5-10% a day for awhile, and then when most of the water is clean, keep up with the 25-50% weekly schedule. I'm not sure, though, since I've never dealt with OTS myself. Again, search the forums for "old tank syndrome" or Google it, and come up with a solution that sounds reasonable and works for you. or else maybe someone else has a "prescription" that they can post here for you.
again, good job. i'm glad you decided not to scrap the whole tank. it'll be hard work to get it back up to speed, but your fishies will thank you. Plus, you'll have learned so much from all of it. They don't teach you that in college, do they?
