4300 Gallon Plywood Build (3600+ Take 2)

a swimming pool? in this weather? and your friend has a 2600? thats awsome! is it an actual tank or a DIY in the wall tank like what your building, and what all fish do you have so far?

The swimming pool is in his garage. He has a 2600 gallon 26' long x 4' x 3.5' with central/sa and another tank over 2k with africans, 2 225s, a 300, and a bunch of tanks under 75 gallons, and two outdoor ponds around 2400 gallons each. Both the 2K and 2600 are plywood and lumber framed glass fronted (3 windows each) with pond liners. They are similar to mine, but constructed differently.

pair ports
3 silver arowanas
5 turquoise herichthys
5 clown loaches
9 leporinus fasciatus
rt cat
3 redtail blue botias
5 bocourti
chocolate cichlid
3 flagtail prochilodus
leucistic giant gourami
fat sleeper goby

Those aren't all the fish I have, but they'll be the initial residents once the tank is finished.
 
Friend is coming over to help with the plywood on Saturday. Tomorrow at lunch going to Lowe's to pick up some square drive screws, probably shorter version of the deck screws I've been using. The drywall screws I have and was attempting to use tear up the bit before I can get them flush. I can jam with the deck screws and get the pieces I have cut up fairly quick. Going to try to get the lag bolts installed as well.
 
Can you extrapolate a bit on what you plan with your barrels and filtration......extremely curious........when you get time of course ;)
 
Experimenting with filtration has been one of my favorite parts of fishkeeping for many years. I've always built filters even back in the day when undergravel filters were all the rage. I've still tossed around putting built-in UGFs in my smaller tanks, but that's a topic for another post.

The barrels will be fed from a 3" pipe connected to a bulkhead in the lower part of the tank. I may have them all on one side connected to one, but have considered connecting 2 to 2 different 3" bulkheads.

1.5"-2" pvc will send the water from the 3" pipe to the bottom of the barrel and into whatever media I have in it. As I've said, it could be chemical like activated carbon, biological (i have tons of bioballs or could order scrubbies from zennzo), or a combination of both. I could even stuff them with floss and make them mechanical filters. Just about anything you would put in your Eheim or Fluval could go in any of these barrels.

Water will flow through a smaller pipe fitting with a trap to prevent media escape to 1000 gph pumps positioned right at the water level, so pretty much no head pressure on them. The forced flow from the closed loop keeps the plumbing flooded and allows air to escape.

Two possibilities happen at the return after the pump.

Return directly to tank with the venturi thing (forget name of it) that increases water flow for circulation.

or

Return to the equivalent of Aquaclear 11000 filter chambers for even more polishing.

That's just one part of the filtration. I'm borrowing ideas from aquaponics and waste water treatment and even have a huge aquaculture bead filter available to me if I so choose to use it. JohnPTCs success with using bag filters confirms my idea to use those as well.

The filtration will be a work in progress and incorporate many modular filters rather than the sump/scrubbies that most large tank builds use. Sumps collect crap and act as a settling tank. You need to be able to do something with that waste once it collects.
 
I've still tossed around putting built-in UGFs in my smaller tanks, but that's a topic for another post.

Look forward to that post I think UGF's get a bad wrap.........

But I digress. I have built a couple barrel filters for my pond, and IMHO floof buffer pads are the way to go for mechanical/bio. They can be purchased in coarse/medium/fine and give you good polishing abilities along with bio capabilities just like scrubbies. Often they fit perfectly in a barrel (although I use the barrels with the lid/ring clamp).

If you opt to go this route I highly suggest installing a bulk head/ shower drain on the bottom of the barrel to a 90 degree elbow and a ball valve for cleanout. This will of course mean that you would have to elevate the barrel on some cinder blocks etc.

On my setup I feed the barrel from the top down through the middle of the barrel with 3" pvc pipe (perfect fit for the buffer pads). At the bottom of the barrel I have a 3" to 1 1/2" "T" and then small sections of 1 1/2" pvc terminating in 45 degree elbows near the side of the barrel. This creates a swirling of the water and helps to settle the larger debris (settling tank) Its then approximately 1 foot up before the water hits the first of six buffer pads (2 coarse, 2 medium, 2 fine) and then out the exit pipe on the side near the top of the barrel. About once a week I open the bottom drain and flush the debris that has collected on the bottom of the barrel.
 
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Its then approximately 1 foot up before the water hits the first of six buffer pads (2 coarse, 3 medium, 2 fine) and then out the exit pipe on the side near the top of the barrel.

6 Buffer pads??? im sure 2+3+2=7 :silly:
 
I'm getting some 55 gallon barrels, so I'll probably do the filter pad thing. I've already had that in the works as well. The smaller barrels are an experiment for another project I'm working on, so they'll stay as is. Bought the 8 fittings I need to retrofit the openings. I may still use the fitting from AquaticEco.com for the return. I don't think there's going to be enough flow to the pumps with these and the pump will probably cavitate a lot. Easy enough mod though if my test with these fittings doesn't work out.
 
Another thing is that with the barrels, I'll most likely have duplicates so that I can swap them out and not have to have the filters down that long. In example, with the 32 gallon barrels, only 3 will be running at one time. The 3" outlet from the tank will plumb into a 2" cross fitting then the 3 outlets feed the 3 barrels. That leaves me an extra to swap out on a 3 week rotation (each week one barrel gets swapped out and cleaned).
 
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