5 weeks of treatment and I can't get rid of the ich

[Smokefire1]

I've been treating an ich outbreak for almost 5 weeks and I've lost the majority of the population in my 65 gallon planted freshwater aquarium used the heat method until my heater quit after 10 days tried the tetra dissolving meds and it cleared up while I was medicating as soon as I stopped it came back I'm currently on day 8 of trying kordons rid ich plus and it's had no effect I'm running 2 cascade filters currently no carbon not sure my exact water parameters my lfs only carries the strip tests everything comes back good water is a little hard but not way off any advice I've been keeping fish for 15 years and have never had a problem until I moved everything to the big tank

 

[OrionGirl]

It sounds like you haven't fully completed any treatment course. I know there are some nastier strains that are resistant to meds, but the heat and salt method has always worked. How high were you maintaining the temp? Do you have a heater in there now, and if so, what' is it set to?

Keep in mind, there aren't any meds that treat the ich on or in the fish--they all require the parasite to be in the free swimming stage, which means you have to treat for at least 5 days past the last visible infection--longer if the tank is cool. I treat a full 10 days past the last visible ich on the fish, since it often hides in gills.

And I'm sure it's been said, but invest in a quarantine setup.

 

[Smokefire1]

I was running the heat at 86 until the heater quit temp is at 78 now with a non adjustable heater didn't want to put salt in with live plants and loaches I'm on day 9 of rid ich plus full doses and daily 25% water changes and it's still spreading

 

[tanker]

IMO, go with the salt and high temp, you are jumping around too much. Use the one method.

 

[Smokefire1]

Won't the salt kill my plants? I was just reading about salt dips and I'm thinking about trying that I can't increase the heat until I get a chance to go into the city the only heaters I can get locally are hydor I've had 2 both of them would spike the temp randomly killed my 14 year old catfish

 

[Smokefire1]

I had to switch from the tetra to the rid ich store ran out (small town store) I'm probably going to have to stop treatment short again I have to leave for a few days next week I was really banking on 2 weeks of kordons doing the trick

 

[OrionGirl]

Inconsistency in treatment is why you've been unable to kill it all off. All it takes is ONE parasite to survive and the whole thing starts over again, and changing methods while you still have an active infection means that's going to happen.

 

[Smokefire1]

As of this morning all visible spots are gone how long should I continue treatment temp is 78 degrees

 

[Leanne Olsen]

Would like to share my Ick-and-gettin-rid-of-Ick experience. I have a 50 gallons tank, 36x18x18ins, lots of rocks and plants and a piece of driftwood on a pretty fine black gravel. Keeping these items company are 2x small Emerald Corycats, 1x large adopted Corycat, 3x Bumblebee Catfish, 7x Turquoise Rainbow fish and 7x tiny Congo Tetra. Until yesterday, I had 2x German Blue Ram as well, however I took them out of the tank and "ended their days". They were causing too much stress; one has had the Ick in his eyes for a long time, and I think that because the other dude hunted him and bit him constantly, he would never get well. Being at my wits end and since neither of these 2 Rams seemed to be improving...while "everyone" else is...I made the decision to ...yes, well!

Anyway, here is what I have done...not done yet!....to get the Ick under control!

Set up a temporary tank (large plastic container) with 10 gallons of water, a couple of pieces of slate for the bumbles to hide under, sponge filter, bubble stone and my extra heater, and after removing all plants from main aquarium and rinsing them under very warm water I tossed them on top to float around in the temp-tank. I then put API Quick Start...10ml per 10 US Gallons (I put double...20ml), API Stress Coat...5ml per 10 US Gallons (I put double...10ml) , and API Aquarium Salt...1 rounded tblsp per 5 US Gallons (I put only half), and of course "Imagitarium" Parasite Remedy...5 ml per 10 gallons (I put only half)
Then I started cranking the temperature over the next few hours and got to work clearing my tank out. Emptied all water out, all rocks thoroughly rinsed in very hot water, gravel rinsed,..and rinsed,...and rinsed! By the time I had my tank cleaned up (using ONLY very hot water and sponges!) and it was sparkly and bone dry, my waterbabies were handling 84 degrees! So instead of filling my tank up to the 50 gallon mark, I only filled to 30 gallons. A brand new waterfall filter, all clean gravel and rocks and after rinsing every plant once more I placed them back in the tank, likewise the driftwood (also rinsed thoroughly!)
Api Quick Start, double dose, API Stress Coat, double dose, Imagitarium Parasite Remedy, double dose and API Aquarium Salt 6 tblsp dissolved in boiled water, 2x heaters, one in either end of the tank and 4x bubble stones for best possible aeration!

Then I plopped the fishies back in their clean home where the temperature was/is 86 degrees.

This is fourth day and yesterday was when I sent the two Rams to Fish-Heaven. This morning...Ick gone! ALL Ick gone! I want to mention that the Congo Tetra never had any at all! So the latest news is a 2/3 water change, double dose Quick Start and Stress Coat, full Parasite Remedy dose and 6 tblsp Dissolved Aquarium Salt. I want to mention that when renewing water, I try to get it as much like the water already in the tank. Am keeping up the salt & temperature & water change treatment a few more days

Unfortunately, I am now seeing some other infection..fungus, I think, on the mouths of the Rainbows!! ..One just can't win, LOL! Anyone have an idea as to what this can be? (Will try and post a video)

 

[Leanne Olsen]

I hope someone can get an idea of the white stuff on Rainbow's mouths,
Thank you!