$50 craiglist 225 tank/cabinet/canopy DIY refurbish
- Thread starter CWO4GUNNER
- Start date
Good Evening,
I just was looking through your post and had a suggestion on how to place the glass. I would look at placing the tank on the side, place the new pane on the side towards the ground with something between the pane and side that will allow you to get your fingers between the glass. You could then silicone all around on the broken bottom and a bead around the edges, of the tank not the new pane. Once you had it siliconed, tip the new pane in place against the bottom, then you could tip the whole tank to the bottom so the pane would help provide weight, may need to place something under the glass on the bottom to help support the broken glass while the silicon cures. Once done you could replace the end pan and then reseal the whole tank at once so there are no breaks in the silicon.
I just was looking through your post and had a suggestion on how to place the glass. I would look at placing the tank on the side, place the new pane on the side towards the ground with something between the pane and side that will allow you to get your fingers between the glass. You could then silicone all around on the broken bottom and a bead around the edges, of the tank not the new pane. Once you had it siliconed, tip the new pane in place against the bottom, then you could tip the whole tank to the bottom so the pane would help provide weight, may need to place something under the glass on the bottom to help support the broken glass while the silicon cures. Once done you could replace the end pan and then reseal the whole tank at once so there are no breaks in the silicon.
Thanks for the recommendation on side placement which has merit if for any other reason to use the balance of gravity to stand the new pane into place without the need of touching the sealing edges all. The only problem is that without any significant weight on the silicone the seal my not properly be set so the tank would have to be turned upside down anyway before the silicon cured to provide even wight that only gravity can provide as it is the natural way these tanks are sealed either by the weight of the panels on the bottom or the weight of the bottom on the panels. I don't think I can duplicate that even pressure over the entire seal evenly if the tank is on its side with the bottom panel only leaning against the 4 sides, although probubly the easiest method to set it in place. In fact Im going to have to make sure the glass doesn't slide off during the curing stage by making sure the tank is level and that I have it taped on 4 sides around the tank perimeter to make sure the bottom remains in place and doesn't migrate during the curing process.
As far as leaving the cracked glass in place and gluing the new over it, this has been considered but after much consideration is really not an option. First because if it doesn't work and later I must separated the good glass from the broken glass with all that silicone in between would be extremely difficult to remove with such a massive sealing surface which may damage the new glass. Also the tank would weigh an addition 81 pounds with 2 bottom panes of glass instead of 1. Finally becasue the glass is cracked I have discovered that every time the tank is moved the two separate halves of the broken glass push against one another and brake off shards of glass inside and outside the tank just like two tectonic plates rubbing against each other, every time they collide without silicone between them to cushion contact tiny pieces of glass brake off. So that old glass must come out no matter what.
As far as leaving the cracked glass in place and gluing the new over it, this has been considered but after much consideration is really not an option. First because if it doesn't work and later I must separated the good glass from the broken glass with all that silicone in between would be extremely difficult to remove with such a massive sealing surface which may damage the new glass. Also the tank would weigh an addition 81 pounds with 2 bottom panes of glass instead of 1. Finally becasue the glass is cracked I have discovered that every time the tank is moved the two separate halves of the broken glass push against one another and brake off shards of glass inside and outside the tank just like two tectonic plates rubbing against each other, every time they collide without silicone between them to cushion contact tiny pieces of glass brake off. So that old glass must come out no matter what.
Turning my attention toward the 225 tank repair replacement of the bottom panel (24x72) and end panel (24x30) the big question is which panel do I replace first as I have no intention of doing both at the same time. originally I was going to do the end panel first which has a walnut size creator in the bottom by simply flipping the panel with the chip toward the top and save $60 for new glass.
But then my neighbor asked why I couldn't have the panel cut new from the broken bottom piece (24x50) still intact? A great idea but that would mean I would have to remove the bottom panel first to have the end panel cut and besides can 1/2" regular glass be cut and the answer is no one I have called has the special blade for 1/2 inch glass.
That is until today when I called an ornamental glass shop that specializes in custom made windows and skylights, the guy said he would cut it for $20. So I suppose It would be ashamed to let a good piece of glass go to waste. The only problem is that there is no way for me to tell if its annealed glass in between tempered and regular glass as annealed glass cannot be cut strait, so I might be tossing my money if they cant tell but I suppose its a better try then using a piece of glass with a walnut size creator.
If I go this rout it means I will probubly replace the bottom panel first leaving the old end panel in temporarily for strength and guard the other panel seals split if 2 panels were missing at the same time (too weak). So I will replace the bottom first but not silicone the bottom panel to that old end panel until the bottom has cured.
Then after the bottom has cured replace the end panel with the new cut glass. I just don't see any other safe way.
But then my neighbor asked why I couldn't have the panel cut new from the broken bottom piece (24x50) still intact? A great idea but that would mean I would have to remove the bottom panel first to have the end panel cut and besides can 1/2" regular glass be cut and the answer is no one I have called has the special blade for 1/2 inch glass.
That is until today when I called an ornamental glass shop that specializes in custom made windows and skylights, the guy said he would cut it for $20. So I suppose It would be ashamed to let a good piece of glass go to waste. The only problem is that there is no way for me to tell if its annealed glass in between tempered and regular glass as annealed glass cannot be cut strait, so I might be tossing my money if they cant tell but I suppose its a better try then using a piece of glass with a walnut size creator.
If I go this rout it means I will probubly replace the bottom panel first leaving the old end panel in temporarily for strength and guard the other panel seals split if 2 panels were missing at the same time (too weak). So I will replace the bottom first but not silicone the bottom panel to that old end panel until the bottom has cured.
Then after the bottom has cured replace the end panel with the new cut glass. I just don't see any other safe way.
thats a toos up - I would be tempted to cut them both out and replace the Side first then the bottom 2nd. I do get your Concern about the Stability of the thing. Does the top have a brace? I am sure it will be fine whichever way you choose to go. Just take your time! lol
The sad part is after more research I found out that becasue this in a bottom panel out of sight and mind. I could have saved myself allot of money (cost $50), time and weight (10 Lbs vs 80 lbs) by using a 2 tier layer (one capped-one inset) of 3/4 inch marine plywood treated with a layer of fiberglass and resin, then just siliconed in place. Such an easy repair now that I studied the process and long lasting (10 yrs) fix. Oh well that's research for you.
:shakehead:
:shakehead:
Its sound a little native until you realize that plywood tanks with only one glass panel have been in used for years, even on this DIY forum section, so the idea of a wood bottom panel suddenly become elementary.
But all in all its OK, even thought I took the yellow brink road instead of that good short cut, when I'm all done with a tank that looks like new from canopy to cabinet and invested a total of $381, I still would have saved $1150 off the cheapest 225 setup from Glass Cages and $2600 for the same manufacturer Lee Mar quoted for the same exact low iron glass tank with all wood stand and canopy. I don't count my labor because for me its pleasurable conquest even though I was forced into it.
After the scary and fun challenges are all overcome and the tank is sitting in my home looking and operating better then new, from what once was considered by my wife to be trash, will be a treasured conversation piece with history.
But all in all its OK, even thought I took the yellow brink road instead of that good short cut, when I'm all done with a tank that looks like new from canopy to cabinet and invested a total of $381, I still would have saved $1150 off the cheapest 225 setup from Glass Cages and $2600 for the same manufacturer Lee Mar quoted for the same exact low iron glass tank with all wood stand and canopy. I don't count my labor because for me its pleasurable conquest even though I was forced into it.
After the scary and fun challenges are all overcome and the tank is sitting in my home looking and operating better then new, from what once was considered by my wife to be trash, will be a treasured conversation piece with history.
I here ya Gunner. When people come over and see my tank I take GREAT pride in telling them I made the stand and hood! I get a lot of compliments! I know the pride you get from doing the work yourself!
:grinyes:
:grinyes:
opcorn: 
