Algae on brazilian sword!

and this bulb thing that i can't find information on.
It is like these small tubes coming out fron the base and has almost liliy pad shaped leaves that are small.

Here's a good link with an overview on dwarf lilies. See if the bulb looks like those... and is the bulb really hard, like a rock? Those usually have the arrowhead-type shaped leaves.

http://aqualandpetsplus.com/Plant,%20Dwarf%20Lily.htm

It might also be a Tiger Lotus.. these come in green and red coloring.

http://www.stoffelsinternational.com/fileadmin/user_upload/_temp_/NymphaeaTigerLotusG.jpg

If the leaves are more spikey, elongated.. the bulb could be a Barclaya longifolia. That bulb is elogated too... also comes in green or red leaf forms.

http://www.aquahobby.com/garden/img/Barclaya_longifolia_1.jpg

Other than those, long slender leaves that may or may not have ruffly edges to them (or a lacy cut-out window pane type pattern) will probably be one of the Aponogetons.

BTW for the algae, cut back on the hours of lighting. Lights shouldn't be running more than 10 hours a day. If there's any indoor lighting or indirect sunlight filtering through, then even less... say, 6 to 8 hours.
 
If the plants don't get enough CO2, they slow way down. And that lets the algae take over. If the CO2 level is higher, the plants will grow vigorously which starves out the algae. CO2 has to be right in the middle.. if it's too high or too low, you get algae problems.
 
If I'm reading your post correctly, your not dosing NP or K, only traces. The sword sounds like it grew until it ran down its stored nutrients then growth slowed. Stunted leaves definitely sound like a deficiency. Hair algae is often associated with low levels of CO2 and ime low nitrates. This does assume the brazilian sword is actually echinodorus bleheri, which I have seen referred to as Brazilian Sword.
 
If the plants don't get enough CO2, they slow way down. And that lets the algae take over. If the CO2 level is higher, the plants will grow vigorously which starves out the algae. CO2 has to be right in the middle.. if it's too high or too low, you get algae problems.

Yep, algae also like it when Co2 levels fluctuate, so a steady supply of Co2 within the right range keeps it from growing.
 
I i used the API brand of aquarium fertilizer would it be the regular fertilizer or would it be still traces like the flourish?

I though i was covered by using this but i didn't know that there was a difference in using traces and just plain fertilizer.

Does this mean that the ret of the plants will be suffering to?

what could i use that i could get at petsmart?

If i use pond fertilizer in small doses would this work?
 
The label should identify nitrogen, phospate and potassium content. I'm not familiar with an API fert, I know hagen used to have npk. The only api fert I see listed on their site is leaf zone. Its msds lists only potassium sulfate and edta iron salts. This would suggest to me that your not dosing any nitrates or phospates.
 
If the plants don't get enough CO2, they slow way down. And that lets the algae take over. If the CO2 level is higher, the plants will grow vigorously which starves out the algae. CO2 has to be right in the middle.. if it's too high or too low, you get algae problems.

Thanks for explaining that.
 
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