Are Water Changes Actually Necessary?

[jpappy789]

I believe I asked where people were recommending 50% weekly water changes because it's what you have to do. Otherwise I fail to see the issue behind this...

I don't see anyone saying that everyone has to change X amount of water every Y amount of days.

If this were completely a science and not a hobby we would be testing for every variable possible and adjusting levels to meet the requirements of our test subjects (fish). No one has the time nor the resources to do this for every possible tank setup.

The crux of the original argument was "why are water changes necessary?" I believe I have said this earlier...If someone can provide me with "proof" to the contrary then I will believe it. I've seen enough "proof" to justify why 99.9% of aquariums within the hobby should have water changed on some interval. If people want to ignore the "facts" then go right ahead.

 

[GoldLenny]

I believe I asked where people were recommending 50% weekly water changes because it's what you have to do. Otherwise I fail to see the issue behind this...

I don't see anyone saying that everyone has to change X amount of water every Y amount of days.

If this were completely a science and not a hobby we would be testing for every variable possible and adjusting levels to meet the requirements of our test subjects (fish). No one has the time nor the resources to do this for every possible tank setup.

The crux of the original argument was "why are water changes necessary?" I believe I have said this earlier...If someone can provide me with "proof" to the contrary then I will believe it. I've seen enough "proof" to justify why 99.9% of aquariums within the hobby should have water changed on some interval. If people want to ignore the "facts" then go right ahead.

I agree.

While what we do is the "hobby", the hobby is still based on pure science... most of which most of us do not fully understand or have the ability to test.

It's like if remote controlled airplanes were your "hobby"... how they work and fly is based on pure science... from the shape of the wings to how the remote control communicates to the plane. It's the same for fish keeping.

ALL aspects of our hobby and what happens in our tanks can be quantitively tested and chronicled from a scientific basis, if someone had the time and resources to do it.

I've read enough peer-reviewed scientific studies to know that the things I say are based on scientific fact. For others who want to read these reports, go to Google Scholar and type in your search words and start reading the thousands of pages of peer-reviewed information that is available.

 

[Slappy*McFish]

If this were completely a science and not a hobby we would be testing for every variable possible and adjusting levels to meet the requirements of our test subjects (fish). No one has the time nor the resources to do this for every possible tank setup.

This point pretty much nailed it. Water changes done on a 'schedule' (whether necessary or not) ensures that a balance is maintained with the quality of our aquarium water when testing 'every possible reason' to do such water changes in the first place just isn't feasible or very cost effective.

 

[dundadundun]

since god has so much experience doing pwc's... what do you guys think he'd charge to make weekly house visits for maintenance? it's just getting too confusing with all this evidence and research for me to do them anymore... i don't know if i'm supposed to do 500% daily or 2% semi-annually in my betta bowl. my sturgeon is looking sickly in there and i think it MIGHT be a little cramped for him... i think his fins are getting roughed up from rubbing on the glass. any suggestions?

he has sooo many nice, naturalistic aquariums. i just want one like one of his. is that too much to ask?

please lend me your wisdom, oh wise masters of the aquarium world.

sincerely, your humble servant and grasshopper;
done

p.s. keep in mind, folks; there's only ever one way to do things... http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182994&highlight=works

p.p.s. should i try diaper rash cream, neosporin or a&d ointment on my fishies poor fins first? which one would be better for him?

p.p.p.s. his water is only 9 months old, but it's getting cloudy (i can't see into it at all), should i add a clarifier or aquarium salt to clear up the water? how many tablespoons of salt should i add 5-6, or what? his bowl is about 1/2 gallon with a tube thingy.

 

[Ara]

Okay, so, with 57 pages of responses, I did not read the previous posts..

But.. I will add (as I am sure others did)..

Fish Poop. In their water. They have no choice. And while filters Help with that, not changing the water, IMHO, is kinda gross for the fishies. They breathe their water, so breathing poop is not cool.

Also, I find when I do not change the water weekly, my tank starts to look gross too, so double the reason.

ALTHOUGH.. Having one tank that is live-planted, and 3 that are not, I go find that the tanks that are NOT live-planted NEED water changes weekly without plants to soak up the poo.. while the planted one stays clean longer.. so it does depend somewhat on your tank..

IMHO.

 

[CWO4GUNNER]

I primarily go by my API test kit toxin readings and my TDS meter when my nitrates reach 40 PPM I do a 50% water Change and if TDS gets above 1000 PPM then I mix my tap water with RO water appropriately to bring TDS back down below 700 PPM. Because of my Golden Pothos nitrate plant filters nitrates have a hard time climbing and usually take about 4 weeks in summer and 6 weeks in winter to get from 5 PPM to 40 PPM. TDS takes about 3 months to get from tab water levels of 600 PPM to 1000 PPM. When TDS levels do get above 1000 PPM, mixing in some RO 20% with regular tap water really help bring TDS back down. Because the difference between Although 1000 PPM TDS is a danger point, 600 PPM is not so great a difference that it shocks fish, however more drastic drops like 1000 PPM to 250 PPM will kill some fish withing 24 hours.

My point is that for me being able to care for my tank more efficiently without investing redundant efforts, gives me more time to enjoy the hobby as well as have extra time to invest more quality care instead of quantity care.

 

[excuzzzeme]

"What we got heah. . . . is a failyah ta communicate. You jest can't reach some people." .....CoolHand Luke, 1967

 

[GoldLenny]

"What we got heah. . . . is a failyah ta communicate. You jest can't reach some people." .....CoolHand Luke, 1967

Yep! LOL

But we still have to keep trying to save the fish. If it were just the adult fish keeper that had to live in that same funkified water, I probably wouldn't care as much. LOL

 

[GoldLenny]

I primarily go by my API test kit toxin readings and my TDS meter when my nitrates reach 40 PPM I do a 50% water Change and if TDS gets above 1000 PPM then I mix my tap water with RO water appropriately to bring TDS back down below 700 PPM. Because of my Golden Pothos nitrate plant filters nitrates have a hard time climbing and usually take about 4 weeks in summer and 6 weeks in winter to get from 5 PPM to 40 PPM. TDS takes about 3 months to get from tab water levels of 600 PPM to 1000 PPM. When TDS levels do get above 1000 PPM, mixing in some RO 20% with regular tap water really help bring TDS back down. Because the difference between Although 1000 PPM TDS is a danger point, 600 PPM is not so great a difference that it shocks fish, however more drastic drops like 1000 PPM to 250 PPM will kill some fish withing 24 hours.

My point is that for me being able to care for my tank more efficiently without investing redundant efforts, gives me more time to enjoy the hobby as well as have extra time to invest more quality care instead of quantity care.

It's good that you have those tests and they are helpful in determining water parameters for the things they test... however, neither of them test for the hormone levels in the water... one of the primary things that cause stunting, stress, etc... and the fish health issues related to stunting and stress. If your tanks are healthy and your fish are growing to their expected adult size and living their expected life spans... and you are able to go 4-6 weeks in between PWC's, it likely means you are not overstocked or even fully stocked in your tanks.

Good job... if that's the case.

Unfortunately, 90% of fish health problems are related to water quality issues caused by overstocking, undersized tanks and lack of proper maintenance on tanks... so the discussion continues.

 

[GuppyGirl1230]

Okay, so this is a bit disjointed but here it goes:
Someone commented about the earth having essentially the same water since it's inception, which is completely untrue. Water (H2O) is simply the combination of 2 hydrogen atoms and an oxygen atom. Now, in high school chemistry classes, water is referred to as the "universal solvent," meaning it can dissolve many, many other molecules. It's also taught that when water dissolves something, that means there is a new molecule that is formed, and whatever that molecule may be it certainly isn't water. As a solvent, water also has a point of saturation (the most stuff it can dissolve) which can be affected slightly by certain factors such as temperature and pressure (both pretty stable in your common fish tank). Once your water has become saturated it no longer dissolves anything new. With evaporation, typically these other dissolved molecules build up in the tank, while water vapor leaves the tank. When you "top off" your tank, the new water simply dissolves these solids and you are left with a saturated water supply. Since fish breath air, the equivalent metaphor would be like keeping your cat in an air tight acrylic cage and never giving it new air. With a big enough cage, some plants, etc., you can build a pretty close replica of a natural environment, but because of the smaller scale (as compared to THE WHOLE EARTH), waste will inevitably build up to higher and higher levels (think Stephen King's new installment, Under the Dome), making the isolated, simulated "environment" a pretty crappy place to live. By regularly changing relatively large portions of your water, you "refresh" the entire system, and like a river or stream (constantly flowing) or even an isolated water system like a lake (which receives new water from rainfall and runoff), actually come closer to mimicking nature than you would if you tried to make such a small system completely self sustainable.