RTR, how large are these Dupla bio balls. Also what would you consider to be the best alternative if this product is unavailable to me in Canada. Thanks.
Best cannister filters and why?
- Thread starter GVT
- Start date
Minikaskade techical data
Goldfish freak: From the tech sheet -
Material: Polypropylene
Diameter: 22 mm
Surface: smooth 3900 sq.mm each
Weight: 1.2 grams
Color: black
They suggest 70 Minikaskades for each 100 liters water volume.
Packing volume of the Minikaskade is ~120 Minikaskades/liter
I'd check the online major distributors for availability. I have tested and successfully used Eheim's Ehfimech ceramic noodles as an alternate, but I don't think the flow characteristics are quite as good.
Goldfish freak: From the tech sheet -
Material: Polypropylene
Diameter: 22 mm
Surface: smooth 3900 sq.mm each
Weight: 1.2 grams
Color: black
They suggest 70 Minikaskades for each 100 liters water volume.
Packing volume of the Minikaskade is ~120 Minikaskades/liter
I'd check the online major distributors for availability. I have tested and successfully used Eheim's Ehfimech ceramic noodles as an alternate, but I don't think the flow characteristics are quite as good.
Thanks for the info RTR. What about using other bio balls of nearly the same size, would these produce nearly the same result? I was thinking about using these http://mops.ca/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/products/FMAM-225.htm?L+scstore+lfmz4823ff841584+1038781079
Is this intended for submerse or emerse use? I could not tell from that or the manufacturer's info site. I have no experience with that one. They do not give the packing volume of these that I could see, so it is hard to do a comparison for area, and flow is different still.
I tested the Dupla Minikaskade because I was using the emerse form, the Biokaskade, in my W/Ds and liked it. The submerse form worked well in my tests. My LFS handled the Dupla line then (the importer at that time was local), so easy to come by. When the importer gave up the line, I stockpiled the leftovers of this product so have a lifetime supply for myself - but it would have been nasty to discuss on the boards when it was not US-available for some years.
I tested the Dupla Minikaskade because I was using the emerse form, the Biokaskade, in my W/Ds and liked it. The submerse form worked well in my tests. My LFS handled the Dupla line then (the importer at that time was local), so easy to come by. When the importer gave up the line, I stockpiled the leftovers of this product so have a lifetime supply for myself - but it would have been nasty to discuss on the boards when it was not US-available for some years.
What is the is the difference between using bio balls intended for submerse or emerse use? Which bio balls do you have experience and find effective besides the Dupla? Thanks again. With regards to packing volume, this item is listed as one gallon.
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goldfish freak - the other bioballs I tested some years back are no longer around - which may expain part of why I did not like them, they were not top products obviously.
One gallon is how many spheres? We can't calculate area per sphere without some relating factor.
Most bioballs are designed for w/d emerse use, not submerse, the volume to surface needs are different. For submerse use the unit size needs minimizing (more units per canister volume, and packing for smaller units is better when loaded into a restricted size vessel) and the surface per unit needs maximizing. W/Ds are high-volume devices, canisters are larger volume than power filters but much less than W/Ds.
JBW - peculiar comment. A sump is not a filter, It may house a W/D or may not. A sump may house other filter formats as well, or may just be a refugium. And W/D is not by definition "better" than a canister. Nor is W/D necessarily associated with a sump - it may be tank-top or may be HOB. Tank and setup need and operator preference are significant factors. Fish-keeping 101: There is no "best" filter format. There is also no "one true path" to well-managed aquariums. Goals may be defined similarly, achieving those goals may be by different paths.
One gallon is how many spheres? We can't calculate area per sphere without some relating factor.
Most bioballs are designed for w/d emerse use, not submerse, the volume to surface needs are different. For submerse use the unit size needs minimizing (more units per canister volume, and packing for smaller units is better when loaded into a restricted size vessel) and the surface per unit needs maximizing. W/Ds are high-volume devices, canisters are larger volume than power filters but much less than W/Ds.
JBW - peculiar comment. A sump is not a filter, It may house a W/D or may not. A sump may house other filter formats as well, or may just be a refugium. And W/D is not by definition "better" than a canister. Nor is W/D necessarily associated with a sump - it may be tank-top or may be HOB. Tank and setup need and operator preference are significant factors. Fish-keeping 101: There is no "best" filter format. There is also no "one true path" to well-managed aquariums. Goals may be defined similarly, achieving those goals may be by different paths.
I have both the Fluval 304 & the 404. I replaced the pea trap type return on my 304 and 404 with a homemade 1/2" PVC spray bar, and couple of elbows, works great. I just like the spray bars better. They both do a great job for me, I have no trouble with the maintenance of either.
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I'm using fluval externals exclusively now. We don't have much choice at most fish shops in the UK - the fluvals are pretty much the only externals I see with any regularity.
I agree they're a bugger to prime, especially if there's not much height difference between the tank and the filter. Once going, though, they bang on for weeks, even months, at a time without interference.
I agree they're a bugger to prime, especially if there's not much height difference between the tank and the filter. Once going, though, they bang on for weeks, even months, at a time without interference.
