can this hold my 20 gallon full of water?
- Thread starter allaboutfish
- Start date
honestly... the only part that bothers me at this point is the front side of the top drawer area. there's no framing around the inside as the drawer takes up the whole space leaving no room for it. if you could find some corner bracing that can take a good tweaking that would fit in there, i'd say go for it. if the back tweaks side by side with a good bump once the tank is filled, then i'd simply put a thicker panel in there or double up for extra strength.
to be completely honest, my 30 sits on a dresser that looks to be less structurally sound than that dresser... with the exception of that top drawer area in the front. however... if that decides to start to go, it isn't just going to stop.
with that said... it's your call... just be sure that once it's full you definitely give this thing a good butt bump in every direction... something completely un-realistic of what could possibly happen to it sitting in the location it'll be. the assurance will be very important in the event it starts to move a bit and you catch it before you lose the tank, the fish and the dresser.
and an over-achiever would minus out the weight of the water their displacing with the rocks in which their adding the weight for. the difference would be much less then.
to be completely honest, my 30 sits on a dresser that looks to be less structurally sound than that dresser... with the exception of that top drawer area in the front. however... if that decides to start to go, it isn't just going to stop.
with that said... it's your call... just be sure that once it's full you definitely give this thing a good butt bump in every direction... something completely un-realistic of what could possibly happen to it sitting in the location it'll be. the assurance will be very important in the event it starts to move a bit and you catch it before you lose the tank, the fish and the dresser.
and an over-achiever would minus out the weight of the water their displacing with the rocks in which their adding the weight for. the difference would be much less then.
use strong tie connectors for the rack, make it a 3 level rack, 6ftX4ftX2ft so u can have 3 55Gs, and 3 20Gs, or whatever
thats what im doing
use 2X4s for the framing, plywood for the shelf, and strong tie connectors for the actual shelf/2X4 connection as they can support up to 600lbs per shelf so ur 2x guaranteed
thats what im doing
use 2X4s for the framing, plywood for the shelf, and strong tie connectors for the actual shelf/2X4 connection as they can support up to 600lbs per shelf so ur 2x guaranteed
pshhhhhhhhhhhhhh i have no room for that. ive got 3 places i can build a rack. one that could fit 2 55s and 2 thats could fit 3-4 20's
You mean like this:
It holds 8 10g tanks and measures 48x21. I had one that I modified this design that held 6 15g's on top and 6 20g's on the bottom. The PVC is I'm reconfiguring the Air system so I can pump air in the PVC and then feed lines from the PVC and hopefully get a consistent pressure instead of using the plastic valves which are kind of pain. This has been in retirement for the last 5 years or so and I'm just now setting it back up.
Aquariums with plastic rims are designed to be supported around all 4 edges. It makes me very nervous to see tanks that are only supported on 2 like above.
Your dresser could probably hold the weight overall no problem. The issue really is that the top does not have adequate support along the front, which could cause the piece of wood on top to bow over time, causing uneven pressure on the bottom edges of the tank, causing it to bust. Since rimmed tanks are designed to just sit on the edges, the safest route would be to have supports directly underneath where the edges of the tank will sit. However, that means your dresser is no longer functional as a piece of furniture, as those supports under the edges have to then have legs to support them all the way to the floor.
Because the tank is smaller all the way around than the top of the dresser, there's no good way to reinforce it without ruining the dresser's functionality. Wood is strongest when it's tall and narrow, such as 2x6 floor joists. They sit up on the narrow 2" edge, because that's how they are strongest. If you laid them on their 6" side, they would bow and flex really badly. That's what's going on with the top of your dresser. It's a broad, thin plank of wood and it will bow over time without that vertical reinforcement underneath where the edges of the tank sit.
Your dresser could probably hold the weight overall no problem. The issue really is that the top does not have adequate support along the front, which could cause the piece of wood on top to bow over time, causing uneven pressure on the bottom edges of the tank, causing it to bust. Since rimmed tanks are designed to just sit on the edges, the safest route would be to have supports directly underneath where the edges of the tank will sit. However, that means your dresser is no longer functional as a piece of furniture, as those supports under the edges have to then have legs to support them all the way to the floor.
Because the tank is smaller all the way around than the top of the dresser, there's no good way to reinforce it without ruining the dresser's functionality. Wood is strongest when it's tall and narrow, such as 2x6 floor joists. They sit up on the narrow 2" edge, because that's how they are strongest. If you laid them on their 6" side, they would bow and flex really badly. That's what's going on with the top of your dresser. It's a broad, thin plank of wood and it will bow over time without that vertical reinforcement underneath where the edges of the tank sit.
can someone show me a design that can fit a 29, 20, 10, and 10? it could only be like 36 inches long.
