CO2 Injection

I've been brewing beer for awhile now and I have a few things to contribute here on the properties of yeast and it's "nutrients".
1) yeast is a single celled organism and therefore has a VERY simple metabolism, the only nutrient that it needs to grow is sugar the protien boosters are silly , and to say that the yeast need the protien by comparing them to something like a human metabolism that needs thousands of elements and compounds to funtion is silly
2) most yeast will produce best between 65 - 75 degrees F
3) beer yeast will typically withstand about 8% alchohol ,wine and champange yeast 12 - 16% and bread yeast (little dry packets) usually about 25%(nobody brews with it becuase it tastes like crap).

BTW the "sludge" left on the bottom of the reaction chamber when the fermentation is done is called the leese (LEEZ) and consist mostly of dormant yeast cells IMO its a good idea to use this again, as soon as the alchohol % comes down and there is simple sugars present the yeast will become active again and do their thing.

Now I have a question. I have never injected CO2 into an aquarium I have my first planted tank going now (90g) I had decent growth for a bit them I loaded up with a few more plants and the growth slowed greatly, at this point I'm looking at either fertilizing or CO2. I would like to know how to decide which suppliment I need and if DIY CO2 injectors are practical for this size tank (it sounds like I would need 5 or 6 2L bottles)
 
BowMaster said:
Hey, guys. I'm new to the CO2 Game. I have a 72g planted tank and am wondering how many bubbles per second I should be using. It isn't too densly populated with plants, but it seems I am using too much CO2. I'm already running at over 2 to 2.5 bubbles/second. I have a really good reactor so I'm getting very good diffusion. I test my pH and it is still above 7.0, could this just be because my water is so hard. If I brought my GH down would this effect the way my CO2 changes my pH?

I also have quite a good light. It is a 260w, 48 inch, compact flourescent, full spectrum light.

Also, I know some of you guys must have a similar sized, heavily planted tank. How much CO2 do you need?

Lyle
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Don't mess with your GH. Test your KH. You may just have hard water. What is your pH out of the tap? If you naturally have a KH of 7 or 8 <or higher> Than you are fine. You will just have a higher pH to achieve the desired CO2 needed for your tank. Check this reading before making any changes.
 
KH with pressurized CO2

Hi Len

Thanks for the info re CO@. I have a 92 G heavily planted tank with a pressurized CO2 system. My plants are doing beautifully (I now have to rim weekly) and most fish (Kribensis, balloon rams, Siamese Algae eaters, Auto cats amd pearl gouramis) as well, (except for Dwarf Gouramis - they die in a couple of days). I keep the PH monitor at 6.5 which automatically dispenses PH at any PH level above that. It seems fairly reliable and the plants are thriving. I was curious, however, about your reference to KH in your post; I don't measure KH and it is 0 in our tap water. I was told that if I add a buffer solution, which increases both KH and PH that with the pressurized CO2 system all I am doing is converting the buffer to water? The same person told me that the plants release O2 which raises the PH and once this increased PH is detected by the monitor that the CO2 is dipenses. There was no mention of KH. Can you let me know if you have further advice on this as I question the water quality with the Dwarf gouramis not living long (they require very high quality water)?

Kind regards,
Jo
 
CO2 reactor/diffusor recommendations

Hi all

I have a pressurized CO2 system with PH monitor and I am looking for recommendations on a dispenser/reactor to provide efficient diffusion, preferrably without unsightly canisters in my tank.

Kind regards,
Jo
 
Fully agree. With a good reactor it is not difficult or very hard work to have good CO2 levels in a decent sized tank. Mine is 63g and the CO2 is stable at around 25 ppm using only two cups of sugar per week. I use six 2L bottles (changing the content in one of them every week; there is still some reaction going on after six weeks I might add). When I change bottles I let the bottle with the new mixture sit disconnected to the system for at least two days to get rid of the air in the bottle. This air would otherwise end up in the reactor.

The reactor itself is very, very easy to make. I use Hagen's gravel vacum (older model) fed by a 16/22 Eheim tube attached to an Eheim 1000l/h compact pump. These pumps are ideal as you can adjust the output.


Ranger said:
...Use a reactor!!!! DIY or buy one they make a huge difference with a yeast set up. I ran a 45g tall on three 2L bottles (changed one weekly) and had levels as high as 35ppm easy....
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you can get electronic solenoid valves that will switch gas off at night.jbl do them but prob not cheap!just use a electronic plug in timer. i am planning to set up a pressurised system and theoretically i think it makes sense to switch off at night,but lots say not to bother.??any responces???
 
!00 gallon Tank

I am starting a 100 gallon planted tank with small fish. The tank will not be heavly planted do i still need co2 and if so can i use a diy setup?

How many 2L bottles
How to dissolve the gas (recommendations) I was thinking of the gravel vac idea but using the output from a xp4 instead of a seprate pump
 
Co 2 Off at night

Hi all after reading this thread I made my own reactor and it works great.
I asked my local fish store expert about the DIY method and he recomended that I turn it off at night so the plants can expell O2. So during the day they
plants take in Co2 and at night they expell O2. Sounds logical to me any one heard of this?

Pearllady
10 gal ---- 5.5 gal --- 1.5 planted tank
5 neon tetras -- 3 male guppies
2 butterfly plectomosis- Mtn snails
Mtn snails

20 gal --- 5.5 Quarintine tank
3 cana snails-- 2 female guppies
-- 2 Ottocinlus
30 gal 2 fancy goldfish
 
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