The 4 pack for 60w replacements I got @ Lowe's was $8.98. Sorry for the delay replying- Spring Break is over
DIY Compact Fluorescent (CFL) Strip Light Retrofit
- Thread starter BoredAgain
- Start date
Nice, I'll have to try those when I need replacements.The 4 pack for 60w replacements I got @ Lowe's was $8.98. Sorry for the delay replying- Spring Break is over
If my darn light fixtures will ever come in I'm going to get started with my project. (shipping to VA from ND so who knows when???) I have cut and cleaned the guttering. I painted the inside white for reflecting light. I'll install the light fixtures possibly w/ pop rivets- but have to have them to know for sure! I'll repair a couple of holes in the guttering where it used to be attached to the house and paint it black on the outside last. I'm dying to get the light done just like I'm dying to test my tank to see if my reseal is going to hold water. All this was supposed to be done last week on Spring Break but life has a way fouling up the best laid plans. I have pictures of what I have done so far but will post them together to maintain a cohesive thread.
Don't throw away those brackets!!!!
I had to replace the broken ballast in my light hood and went with the CFL option here. Great work OP. Used 3 2-socket setups for a total of 6 bulbs. 55 gallon tank.
I did exactly what the OP did, except I utilized the metal brackets that came with the 2-bulb sockets. You can use these to make a more solid mount to the hood than zip ties.
Here are my steps and pictures of the finished work:
1.[FONT="] [/FONT]I tore out the broken fluorescent ballast that was in the long light hood.
2.[FONT="] [/FONT]The inside was originally black, but I taped off the sides and painted the inside white with Rustoleum High Temperature spray paint. It gives it better reflective properties.
3.[FONT="] [/FONT]Home Depot didn’t have the 2-bulb sockets by themselves, so I bought 3 cheap hanging light fixtures ($5 each) that had the sockets in them.
4.[FONT="] [/FONT]While I had to disassemble the light fixture and remove half of a bracket, I was able to use the other half of the bracket to mount the sockets to the hood. (The metal piece shown in pictures.)
4a. Unscrew the bolts holding the two brackets and socket together.
4b. Save the 2 bolts, 2 nuts, socket assembly, & bracket with threaded screw portion on the end.
4c. Remount bracket with threaded screw on OPPOSITE side from where it was mounted before. (Wires should be coming towards the bracket from socket.) Use bolts & nuts to tighten into place.
4d. This keeps the wires neatly against the wall of the hood once you mount it.
5.[FONT="] [/FONT]Drilled holes for the threaded portion of the bracket to fit through the hood. (I either need to get a Dremel or bigger drill bits. It is a paint to use a small drill bit and use a circular motion to make a hole bigger.)
6.[FONT="] [/FONT]Attached with a rubber washer and odd decorative cap-nut provided in the light fixture.
7.[FONT="] [/FONT]Drilled a hole in the hood to mount the toggle switch.
8.[FONT="] [/FONT]Wired everything in parallel format.
9.[FONT="] [/FONT]Used mount-zip-ties to keep wires away from touching lights.
I had to replace the broken ballast in my light hood and went with the CFL option here. Great work OP. Used 3 2-socket setups for a total of 6 bulbs. 55 gallon tank.
I did exactly what the OP did, except I utilized the metal brackets that came with the 2-bulb sockets. You can use these to make a more solid mount to the hood than zip ties.
Here are my steps and pictures of the finished work:
1.[FONT="] [/FONT]I tore out the broken fluorescent ballast that was in the long light hood.
2.[FONT="] [/FONT]The inside was originally black, but I taped off the sides and painted the inside white with Rustoleum High Temperature spray paint. It gives it better reflective properties.
3.[FONT="] [/FONT]Home Depot didn’t have the 2-bulb sockets by themselves, so I bought 3 cheap hanging light fixtures ($5 each) that had the sockets in them.
4.[FONT="] [/FONT]While I had to disassemble the light fixture and remove half of a bracket, I was able to use the other half of the bracket to mount the sockets to the hood. (The metal piece shown in pictures.)
4a. Unscrew the bolts holding the two brackets and socket together.
4b. Save the 2 bolts, 2 nuts, socket assembly, & bracket with threaded screw portion on the end.
4c. Remount bracket with threaded screw on OPPOSITE side from where it was mounted before. (Wires should be coming towards the bracket from socket.) Use bolts & nuts to tighten into place.
4d. This keeps the wires neatly against the wall of the hood once you mount it.
5.[FONT="] [/FONT]Drilled holes for the threaded portion of the bracket to fit through the hood. (I either need to get a Dremel or bigger drill bits. It is a paint to use a small drill bit and use a circular motion to make a hole bigger.)
6.[FONT="] [/FONT]Attached with a rubber washer and odd decorative cap-nut provided in the light fixture.
7.[FONT="] [/FONT]Drilled a hole in the hood to mount the toggle switch.
8.[FONT="] [/FONT]Wired everything in parallel format.
9.[FONT="] [/FONT]Used mount-zip-ties to keep wires away from touching lights.
I have the same lights from Home Depot; but i cannot figure where i should attach the ground wires??? It is a braided copper wire separate from the black and white wiring.
There isn't anything metal around the light fixture to connect to. Should i just cut the grounding wire short so that it cannot touch anything else?
There isn't anything metal around the light fixture to connect to. Should i just cut the grounding wire short so that it cannot touch anything else?
Yeah, just remove it, not entirely necessary. I just recently bought the same ones to add some CFL's to a shop light to give it more kick, worked out well.
OK... really simplistic question. Trying to digest that I understand everything fully before beginning my project for the weekend...
The light fixtures have all they need in them- they can just be wired directly to the plug. I assume they need to be attached in parallel rather than serially- or does it matter? The only difficult part is spacing them so that they are not touching the walls, top or bottom- or too close that they melt the aforementioned locations.
As far as computer fans- don't they normally run from the computer's board from a converted DC current instead of an AC or am I mistaken... can I just wire them in parallel as well- or do I need some kind of convertor or resistor?
I have two vent slots on top of each of my light fixtures (2 seperate mini hoods over my 55). I assume I point one fan in and one fan out for maximum circulation?
I'm going to attack each mini hood one at a time. (only one end of the tank is heavily planted anyway- the other end is lightly planted but with lots of caves and wood.
I assume it's OK for me- if I'm putting 4 bulbs in each hood (each hood just under 2ft) if instead of wiring them in serial I gave each set of two their own plug... that way- I can plan the lights like you have them to gradually go on and off with timers. I'll end up with four plugs to light my 55 gallon that way when both hoods are complete.
Is it really that easy? I've done things like wiring up ceiling fans and light fixtures in the ceiling before- I built my own PC from parts a year ago... I'm no expert by anymeans- but with decent directions I normally can get by... this sounds like there isn't much to it though (most things arn't when you try them). Is it really?
I'd like to do the night lighting- but I save that for the second hood... but that's a project for another day!
The light fixtures have all they need in them- they can just be wired directly to the plug. I assume they need to be attached in parallel rather than serially- or does it matter? The only difficult part is spacing them so that they are not touching the walls, top or bottom- or too close that they melt the aforementioned locations.
As far as computer fans- don't they normally run from the computer's board from a converted DC current instead of an AC or am I mistaken... can I just wire them in parallel as well- or do I need some kind of convertor or resistor?
I have two vent slots on top of each of my light fixtures (2 seperate mini hoods over my 55). I assume I point one fan in and one fan out for maximum circulation?
I'm going to attack each mini hood one at a time. (only one end of the tank is heavily planted anyway- the other end is lightly planted but with lots of caves and wood.
I assume it's OK for me- if I'm putting 4 bulbs in each hood (each hood just under 2ft) if instead of wiring them in serial I gave each set of two their own plug... that way- I can plan the lights like you have them to gradually go on and off with timers. I'll end up with four plugs to light my 55 gallon that way when both hoods are complete.
Is it really that easy? I've done things like wiring up ceiling fans and light fixtures in the ceiling before- I built my own PC from parts a year ago... I'm no expert by anymeans- but with decent directions I normally can get by... this sounds like there isn't much to it though (most things arn't when you try them). Is it really?
I'd like to do the night lighting- but I save that for the second hood... but that's a project for another day!
Thanks a lot guys. This will also be my Saturday project. I will try to take some pics of before and after. Hopefully I won't electrocute myself; or set my plastic light hood on fire. I guess we'll see.
I don't have any fans planned; but i will drill some slots for ventilation and hope that's enough.
I don't have any fans planned; but i will drill some slots for ventilation and hope that's enough.
