Wycco, giving each its own plug would be fine. I also think that with the strips that you have, you could just forego the fans altogether, the vents in them will allow the heat to escape nicely.
DIY Compact Fluorescent (CFL) Strip Light Retrofit
- Thread starter BoredAgain
- Start date
OK- I'll watch the temps without the fans then.
I am a little concerned about temperature though- because of room temperature my tanks stay a few degrees above what I'd prefer anyway- so I really don't want to add any more heat... I'll see how they do without fans first.
If I need to add fans- I just wire them directly on? Computer fans take regular AC current no need for DC transformer?
I am a little concerned about temperature though- because of room temperature my tanks stay a few degrees above what I'd prefer anyway- so I really don't want to add any more heat... I'll see how they do without fans first.
If I need to add fans- I just wire them directly on? Computer fans take regular AC current no need for DC transformer?
I just used a small power supply from an old computer, I'm sure you can dig up something similar, either new or used.
So... I went to lowes found a pack of four CFLs 6500 Kelvin- 26watt for about $11. Less than $3 a bulb- that's really not bad- CFLs have really come down in price.
Light sockets were approx $2.50- so to put in 78watts of lighting on one half of my tank would cost "spray paint... $3.50 for a can) + $7.50 for sockets and $9 for light bulbs... I already have the wire connectors in abundance.
$20 for one hood. Doing a 2nd hood the same way (not having to buy paint again) would make $36.50 for almost 160watts and about 3wpg on a 55gallon tank!!!!!!! 22cents per watt! Fantastic!!!!
Now- the problem is- when I got it home to test- the bulbs would only just fit inside the empty canopy. They do fit though- and it looks like it would be simple to wire... not much room left for a fan so hope one wouldn't be necessary.
I'm worried that the bulbs will touch the acrylic lid- OR the plastic top. I can probably position them so they're a mm or two away from either extreme- but in the weekly ritual of moving them around to do water clean- I'd be worried they would end up touching one or the other as the canopy got bumped around.
I think I'm going to take the bulbs back for lower watt ones... 2 reasons:
1) I don't think I actually want 3 wpg because it would necessitate more that I use the dry ferts instead of my liquid ferts- higher demand... and also I would need to do something more about CO2 than just a DIY Yeast based kit...
I know CFL will need more per gallon than regular because it's a lower light temperature and also I can't match commercial reflectivity. But still- I wasn't really thinking or doing the maths- I just grabbed the largest cheapest wattage I could find- I didn't know if I could fit 2 or 3 bulbs under the hood- and 2 of these would have given me close to 2wpg.
2) I'm concerned that the bulbs take up the entire space under the canopy due to their diameter- I don't know if lower watt bulbs would be narrower... common sense susgests they might be. I don't know if I even have to worry about this.
My concern is heat- melting- or burning whatever it is proped up against... even if circulation and vents are big enough to circulate heat away as to not heat the tank water up- there still remains the fact that the bulb itself will be hot (I suspect) and could damage what it touches.
Any experience with this?
Light sockets were approx $2.50- so to put in 78watts of lighting on one half of my tank would cost "spray paint... $3.50 for a can) + $7.50 for sockets and $9 for light bulbs... I already have the wire connectors in abundance.
$20 for one hood. Doing a 2nd hood the same way (not having to buy paint again) would make $36.50 for almost 160watts and about 3wpg on a 55gallon tank!!!!!!! 22cents per watt! Fantastic!!!!
Now- the problem is- when I got it home to test- the bulbs would only just fit inside the empty canopy. They do fit though- and it looks like it would be simple to wire... not much room left for a fan so hope one wouldn't be necessary.
I'm worried that the bulbs will touch the acrylic lid- OR the plastic top. I can probably position them so they're a mm or two away from either extreme- but in the weekly ritual of moving them around to do water clean- I'd be worried they would end up touching one or the other as the canopy got bumped around.
I think I'm going to take the bulbs back for lower watt ones... 2 reasons:
1) I don't think I actually want 3 wpg because it would necessitate more that I use the dry ferts instead of my liquid ferts- higher demand... and also I would need to do something more about CO2 than just a DIY Yeast based kit...
I know CFL will need more per gallon than regular because it's a lower light temperature and also I can't match commercial reflectivity. But still- I wasn't really thinking or doing the maths- I just grabbed the largest cheapest wattage I could find- I didn't know if I could fit 2 or 3 bulbs under the hood- and 2 of these would have given me close to 2wpg.
2) I'm concerned that the bulbs take up the entire space under the canopy due to their diameter- I don't know if lower watt bulbs would be narrower... common sense susgests they might be. I don't know if I even have to worry about this.
My concern is heat- melting- or burning whatever it is proped up against... even if circulation and vents are big enough to circulate heat away as to not heat the tank water up- there still remains the fact that the bulb itself will be hot (I suspect) and could damage what it touches.
Any experience with this?
The lower wattage bulbs will be smaller. I was also worried about heat at first, but I've been running them for a long time on one of my tanks, the one with vents, and no issues at all. Ever consider a glass top?
I may need to do a glass top. That might help... double the cost of my retrofitting though!
I've spent so much already on the aquarium I'm trying to slow down the spending which is the main reason I'm looking into the DIY lighting. Are the feeding hinges and light hoods a standard size?
If I get a glass top- will the "light box" (not sure correct term) fit- or do I need to hunt around for one with the same dimensions?
Overall though the less I need to buy the better.
I've spent so much already on the aquarium I'm trying to slow down the spending which is the main reason I'm looking into the DIY lighting. Are the feeding hinges and light hoods a standard size?
If I get a glass top- will the "light box" (not sure correct term) fit- or do I need to hunt around for one with the same dimensions?
Overall though the less I need to buy the better.
question for u guys. I did the retrofit quite a while back using the walmart 6700k daylight bulbs and have been pleased with the results. I talked to the LFS owner about his 120 gallon african tank, and he said he uses some 50/50 bulbs in the canopy to really bring out the community tanks colors. Ive been looking to find some cfl screw in bulbs that are 50/50, and havnt had much luck. has anyone else tried this, and had any success with it?
Well, I finished the project today. I thought that I would get fancy and try a highly reflective silver spray paint inside the hood........ it is reflective from what I can tell; but it gives the light a greenish tint. That will be my lesson to not deviate from the norm again.
I will say though; that the output is so much better than my 15 watt single bulb. There are no dark corners in the tank, and I'm sure that the plants will take off shortly.
I think that I will try to repaint the hood white when I go to the Depot today.
Again, thanks to everyone for the help and great idea.
I will say though; that the output is so much better than my 15 watt single bulb. There are no dark corners in the tank, and I'm sure that the plants will take off shortly.
I think that I will try to repaint the hood white when I go to the Depot today.
Again, thanks to everyone for the help and great idea.
