Electric Blue Jack Dempsey's worthless?

Markm0723 said:
Everyone has their own opinion. Considering that its the minerals in the water that causes the pH and hardness of the water. I wouldn't say its irrelevant, otherwise, RO water would be fine. Granted, all EBs are numerous generations away from wild stock, but logic says that if you can give them as near to a natural environment as possible, it should help. I've had good luck with this approach, but others obviously have had equally good results. I was just giving you suggestions of what has worked for me. Once again, good luck with whatever you decide, but I still suggest a UVS no matter what water perameters you choose.

Mark
Click to expand...

I have as BIG one on my 180 discus tank but I dont have one on the Jack Tank. I will have to get UV for the EBJD's. Thanks for the tip.

Arkangel77
 
Markm0723 said:
Everyone has their own opinion. Considering that its the minerals in the water that causes the pH and hardness of the water. I wouldn't say its irrelevant, otherwise, RO water would be fine. Granted, all EBs are numerous generations away from wild stock, but logic says that if you can give them as near to a natural environment as possible, it should help. I've had good luck with this approach, but others obviously have had equally good results. I was just giving you suggestions of what has worked for me. Once again, good luck with whatever you decide, but I still suggest a UVS no matter what water perameters you choose.

Mark
Click to expand...
pH has little to do with the mineral content of the water. It's just the hydrogen ion concentration. TDS (total dissolved solids) is what takes into account all the dissolved materials in the water.

pH is not directly connected to TDS either, which true RO/DI water lacks. That is what matters to fish. Sure, extreme pH's (generally below 5, and above 9) are detrimental to bodily functions, particularly sodium uptake, but pH is not the main issue. It's the TDS, which most people monitor as a combination of KH and GH.
 
thanks for the info
 
Well I got my UV and will install it today. Started off with 10 of the EBJD and I have lost 2 in the 1st 3 weeks. I have 2 that still hide a good bit and who knows about them. AS for the other 6 - they are hyper active little pirana wana bees and they have shown nice growth in the 1st 3 weeks already! I guess I could start feeding a little medicated flake as a precation but who knows if the hiders will even eat it. The other 6 will eat anything you throw in there. I hope not to loose too manny more. I knew I would loose some to start with so I am not to worried yet. Time will tell.

Arkangel77
 
If you are having problems with your EBD not eating, 9 out of 10 times the problem is hexamita, also known as hole in the head disease. In the case of EBD, which are confirmed to have weaker genes and are much more susceptible to having these small parasites attack their stomach lining. Treatment with Clout (over the counter fish Med) will get the fish eating again along with several water changes. I have practiced what I preach many times and have saved an enjoyed these fish for up to 5 years and up to 7 inches in length. Hope I helped or saved a EBD out there. ----FC
 
I will give it a try - Is this a parasitic infestation?
 
It is a parasite which from what I have read is in most tanks, how it affects some fish and not others is a mystery to me. It does not seem to effect other fish mostly cichlids. There are other meds that are out there for HITH, but Clout works best. I would separate the problem ones if possible. When using Clout use it for up to 3 days and the fish should start to eat again. After this treatment if you do not have positive results wait a few days and try again. Fish can last 3 to 4 weeks without eating. IMPORTANT! You should also know that if these fish (not eating) are being chased or bothered by a fellow tank mates this could also be the problem and not HITH at all. EBD stress out more than any other fish I have kept. So your weaker ones may stressed out, try moving them to another tank or use a divider before reaching for the Clout. When EBD are happy and with good tank mates they are wonderful. Good Luck.
 
Last edited:
Also, the prevailing theory is that the infestaton spreads by healthy fish mouthing the poop of infected fish, so you need to keep the bottom (and water itself) CLEAN!
 
PS - you are 100% right. They have parasites and I am treating them for it! WHite Stringy poop is a sure sighn!
 
HITH

White stringy poop is the sign of Hexamita. Every Blue Dempsey I have owned seemed to get it at a minimum of 2 to 3 times in their average 5 year life span. I should add that I am a water change addict. Or my Dempsey's would probably get it more often. If you can get a EBJD to live 5 years on average and grow past 6 inches your doing great. To me they are worth the trouble.
If you can't take the challenge and you want that pretty of a fish, get into salt water, it's easier. The Reg Jack Dempsey will live 10-12 years easy.

----mrdempsey
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom