for those considering a cannister filter...

I do second the connectors to the filter as a noticeable weak spot . I currently support the hoses but am looking at options to reinforce the connector s
 
I have the same concern about the nozzles on my filter (Odyssey) which is similar to this one. The reports I've read where someone complains about these "cheap," "crappy," "knock-off" filters is because theirs have started to leak. And in those cases, I noticed the leak always came from these flimsy nozzles. I bought mine anyway, didn't have much other choice at the time. So I already know the nozzles are the weakest, most problemmatic point when there is a failure. I could see why after I got mine and set it up. The nozzles are flimsy. So I'm extra careful about that whenever I mess with them.

My question now is: If the rest of this system is pretty reliable, as it seems to be, what could we do as a DIY kind of thing to upgrade or bypass those lousy nozzles altogether? I'm sure there aren't just convenient fittings we can pick up off the shelf somewhere. But maybe we could seal some tubing permanently into the place where the nozzles fit into the filter itself. (Removing the nozzles from this altered setup completely.) Then about 4-5 inches above that, just splice the tubing with a straight cut and install our own DIY fittings and connectors with some kind of shut off valve.

People do this kind of thing all the time with hoses and tubing used for lots of projects - even making their own gravel siphoning gadget when they don't want to purchase an actual python.
 
I am going to try working with some pvc pipe this weekend.

I'll do some measuring to see if i can create a slip over that will support the fittings.

it may be feasible to use high density foam too.. anything to lessen the potential for strain.

the nozzles themselves don't appear to be flimsy but they are not supported. this means movement at the joint= early wear

with this particular filter the screw on part needs to be accessible. but for all intensive purposes you don't need to detach the hose to clean. save for strain on the fittings.
 
I think I have come up with an idea to help stabilize the connectors.

i will work on it this week end.

MR key if you would like to start a thread on grammar please feel free to do so ...IN THE APPROPRIATE forum.

I purchased a pair of the compact lighthouse hoods with 6500 k bulbs 65w

they look pretty good but I suspect the bulbs may be low quality.
 
Oh good. I just bought a year-old Rena Filstar xp3 from someone on Craigslist and he threw in... you guessed it, a Catalina filter as a freebie, along with his heaters, big whisper air pump, power heads, and fittings/connectors from his wet/dry setup.

So now I have both the Odyssea and a Catalina to worry about those silly nozzles.
 
lol.. I think it may be an easy fix
 
Corection on my previous post mine is an Odyssea not a Jebo but from what I can tell they are identical.
 
ul = Underwriters Laboritories tested and approved (US standard)
ce = manufacturer certification that product meets E.U. safety standards.

The EU is much more strict about certain things than the US (No red MMs or Skittles, red dye is bad for you)
The main difference is ul means the product has been tested by an independent labority, ce means the manufacturer certifies that it is safe. If true, it is held to what is probably a higher standard.

Watching this thread with great interest...just picked up a 175 bow and a 160 long for less than filtration is going to cost. Craigslist rules!
 
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