Freakin' hair algae for me too!

[rsanz]

UGH! I just beat my last bout of hair algae (Excel overdosing), and it all but ruined my crop of Java Moss (it's completely covered in a disgusting gray mass of dead algae). It's green hair algae. I don't think it's Staghorn because there are no "branches" on the individual strands.

I just bought a crop of Flame Moss from the classified section, and I would be royally pissed if that was ruined by hair algae too!

I have 36 watts (double T5 fixture, one 10,000K and the other 6,700K) over my 20g-long tank. The light is on for 9 hours a day (on a timer). My plant list is as follows:

Alternanthera reineckii ''roseafolia''
Ludwigia repens
Anubias barteri v. 'nana'
Microsorum pteropus v. 'narrow leaf'
Vesicularia dubyana
Taxiphyllum sp.

I have a DIY yeast Co2 system running. I also dose Seachem liquid ferts: Iron, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and I dose Potassium with Nu-Salt solution.

All the pinholes in my new growth have disappeared, and I thought that the algae would go away as well once I started the full fert regimen! I follow the "Seachem Suggested Dosing Chart for the Planted Aquarium", but I suppose it's hard to dose exactly "one cap line" for my little 20g. I don't dose Excel or Trace regularly. I seem to have REALLY bad lucky having plants melt with Excel dosing.

I implore you: please help me! I hate hair algae!! What am I missing?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[Cory Keeper]

Try cutting back on phosphate dosing, I never have to dose phosphate so, its probably well in excess of what it needs to be. Also try cutting back on the iron,

 

[Draal5]

Also stop dosing iron that's a big algae producer also. you could also add more co2 or dose excel daily not over dosing it till the tank gets its balance back

 

[rsanz]

So, basically, the suggested Seachem dosing chart is bunk?

I suppose I could only dose Iron every other day as opposed to every day. The phosphate dosing is only twice a week. Should I only do once a week?

I had had trouble keeping plants alive prior to doing the full spectrum of fert dosing, so I am hesitant to pull back on it. The plants are very vibrant and definitely thriving with the new fert dosage. I don't want them to die off.

Thanks for all your help so far!

 

[Riiz]

I wouldnt touch the fertilizers, but would look at your DIY CO2 production. I supplement Iron and keep my phosphates at 2.0ppm+ in my planted tanks and have no algae outbreaks, but I also have pressurized CO2.

I think you might need to add another bottle to increase CO2 concentrations or split the mix into several bottles for a more consistent output. Because inconsistency and low levels spur on algae.

 

[Canuck]

Go with Riiz's advice

 

[irishspy]

I had a real problem with hair algae until a few months ago in my ten-gallon tank. (Well, all sorts of algae .) Aside from mechanically pulling it out (a toothbrush works well with hair algae), dosing once per day with 1ml of Excel eventually got it under control. After that, a regular fert regimen and cutting back on the lights seems to have helped.

Like you, I used Seachem products on my tank, except I don't use iron or phosphate. (I'd recommend you get a phosphate test kit, btw.) I dose Flourish, Nitrogen, Potassium, Excel, and Trace. If you like, I could post my schedule.

BTW, the "fill to the first cap line" method drove me bonkers, so I bought a 10ml graduated cylinder off eBay. It's been well worth it. :idea:

 

[rsanz]

I wouldnt touch the fertilizers, but would look at your DIY CO2 production. I supplement Iron and keep my phosphates at 2.0ppm+ in my planted tanks and have no algae outbreaks, but I also have pressurized CO2.

I think you might need to add another bottle to increase CO2 concentrations or split the mix into several bottles for a more consistent output. Because inconsistency and low levels spur on algae.

I may have to switch to 2-Liter bottles. I'm using a Hagen Bio-Co2 system. I may have to just take the plunge and set up some 2-Liters. I've also been using a bubble ladder as my Co2 diffuser which I know is incredibly inefficient.

So it seems that the Co2 is the problem. I could definitely believe that.

I'll have to look into the 2-liter bottle setup.

Thanks!

 

[Canuck]

BTW, the "fill to the first cap line" method drove me bonkers, so I bought a 10ml graduated cylinder off eBay. It's been well worth it. :idea:

You really don't need to be that exact. 5, 10, 15 ppm of nitrate. .5, 1, 2 ppm phosphate, lots of K, lots of CO2, lots of trace... all good.

 

[Bk718]

I may have to switch to 2-Liter bottles. I'm using a Hagen Bio-Co2 system. I may have to just take the plunge and set up some 2-Liters. I've also been using a bubble ladder as my Co2 diffuser which I know is incredibly inefficient.

So it seems that the Co2 is the problem. I could definitely believe that.

I'll have to look into the 2-liter bottle setup.

Thanks!

the hagen co2 system is only .5L . I wouldnt even use that on a 5g tank..

Up your co2 to either 2 2L bottles or 1 3L and reduce your photo period to 8hrs until algae goes away. Another thing with the hagen system is that the ladder is nice for diffusing co2 but you dont get great diffusion. Try and switch to a limewood airstone and place it at the lowest point of the tank under the filters overflow. (if you have a canister then plug it into the intake)
Your lack of co2 isnt allowing the plants to take in the nutrients.
Also dont overfeed your fish and be up on your tank maintenance.

And final suggestion is for you to get a drop checker with proper solution. That way you will know where your co2 level is and when you should switch up the yeast mix.