GH, KH, & TDS Clarification

Do you have any seashells or bricks or other "man-made stone" in your tank? Can you elaborate on the entirety of your décor?

Yes I am sorry - So I have Fake Log - Fake Cave - Fake plants - Two pieces of driftwood and aquarium gravel. However as of last night my substrate is now fluorite underneath small small gravel. (WAY better for my geophagus and Cory cat) I am getting ready for plants. I just threw the fake decor back in for now.
 
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I prefer the larger and more frequent water changes. Keeping the tank as close as possible to tap conditions, if those conditions are desirable. Table salt is good for meds but not needed for any reason in regular doses. It works for some, but more as a placebo. Salt will affect the gill function. If you use it and claim great benefits, it is unfounded unless a similar tank of the same fish is kept from having it. IMO.
 
Tds is everything, from nitrogen waste products, hormones excreted by the fish, minerals, the metals from the pipe system, the "tea" from whatever has decomposed in the tank etc.

A test kit will not measure tds, but we can use nitrate levels in an unplanted tank to stand in for the total. It is only one variable in the soup but it usually works as a stand in.

Ph is in a fish tank is more complicated than a direct relationship of kh to ph. Part of the tds question has bearing on ph, since metabolic processes add organic acids and bases to the mix. As someone that has interest in CO2 injection in planted tanks I know that the measured ph after CO2 injection is the effect of CO2 ppm lowering the average of all the organic and non organic acids and bases. Simply put I can't calculate how much CO2 there is in the water by the difference between tap and tank measured ph because of the organic additions.

To get an accurate CO2 measure, I need to compare a sample of tank water gassed off to ambient levels with the current tank ph as adjusted by the CO2. One log ph difference in this case is the target of 30 ppm CO2. ( if the sample has a ph of 8.2 my tank target is 7.2, or if the sample is 7.3 my tank target is 6.3 with CO2)

That was perhaps not entirely applicable to the current discussion but as an example I hope it was educative.
 
Salt has a lot of benefits besides just softening water, for example it is a natural antiseptic so torn fins and missing scales heal quickly and it works wonders when used alongside Stress Coat. It is also a natural stress reducer and promotes healthy digestive function. As a result of stress reduction it also rewards us with more vibrantly colored fish.

Salt kills parasites, fights bacteria and fungus. Use it as a preventative measure to keep dormant pathogens from surfacing and force them into "remission". Many fish love the salts, and standard tablesalt is a cheaper acceptable substitute for Cichlids salts or Aquarium salts labelled in stores. A big bag of rocksalt will work the same, or a big bag of Water-Softener salt. NOT Ocean Salt. Ocean salt is different and should ONLY be used in Brackish or SW-tanks.

When I add the salt after my 60-90% weekly water changes the fish RUSH into the cloud of salt and act like a dog rolling in the grass. I have used salt in my tanks 24/7, 365 for over 10 years and the results speak for themselves.

While I must respectfully disagree about large water changes and not using salt, the only thing I can really say in hopes to make you a believer is that every fish in the thread I linked earlier is UNDER 18 months old and some are approaching 10" while some hit the 10" mark several months ago.


frank, I must respectfully disagree with both statements. I've been keeping fish since 1968, have done and do large-scale weekly partials and never prophylactically salt my tank(s).
I've kept most FW species from Discus to Tanganyikan cichlids and never salt the water unless a disease requires treatment.
To dispel a myth, just adding salt does not "soften" the water...it simply increases the TDS of the water. Ionic exchange softeners which use salt, exchange hard ions for soft ions and thereby "soften" the water, but since the exchange is at a 2:1 ratio, it also raises the TDS. The following article may prove useful...

https://www.theaquariumwiki.com/The_Salt_of_the_Earth

Mark
 
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