Got 37 gallon Aqueon setup

Yes I have a test kit. API ammonia. It seems to read between 0 and .25 PPM. I don't have a test for nitrates and nitrites. Is there a separate test I can get for this so I don't have to get the master kit?

Yes I am adding de-chlorinator to the water that I add. I take out the water, add the de-chlorinator and then add the water.

The test kit shows pale yellow for 0 PPM, greenish yellow for .25 PPM. I haven't seen the ammonia go over .25, but it's kind of hard to tell exactly which one it is.

I get so much contradictory advice. The book I read said to do daily water changes, if not more to get the ammonia level down to 0. The guy at the LFS said that's not letting the bacteria get enough to eat and to let it get quite a bit higher before doing any water changes.

So which is it? What should the next week ideally look like before I add some more fish?
 
Like we've suggested several times in this thread, if you don't have a means to measure for nitrite and nitrate, you're flying completely blind. You can mail-order an API master test kit for ~$25 or so. It's got everything you need.
 
There is other tests for the nitrites and nitrates but i only recommend the API master test kit because it comes with mostly everything youll ever need to check your water ( PH, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates). I do suggest finding a way to get a reading for the nitrites and nitrates so we, and you of course, can see how far along your cycle is and make better suggestions and help even further. The bacteria you have in the tank will consume ammonia at any level if its present. Since you have no means right now of getting a nitrite and nitrate reading you should just be concerned of any ammonia. I hate to ask more questions but what dechlorinator do you use? Seachem Prime can show you a false positive for ammonia meaning that the test says you have ammonia but its not actually there because you just used dechlorinator. Cycling a tank can being a PITA at times and to someone fairly new to the hobby, very confusing. Still dont add anymore fish until you find a way to read those nitrites and nitrates. Sorry about the long post just trying to help :)

Sent from my SGH-T989 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 
ktrom13 said:
There is other tests for the nitrites and nitrates but i only recommend the API master test kit because it comes with mostly everything youll ever need to check your water ( PH, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates).

Sent from my SGH-T989 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
Click to expand...
Picked up an API master kit today, good range of tests but the amount of chemicals required is absurd. Ten drops for the nitrate test is a bit much, I remember my Hagen master case kit needed half as much for a reagent test, same with the ammonia test. IMO paying 60-70 for the hagen master kit is worth it
 
That's true kumar. You definitely run low on the nitrate bottles first. I know with my 4 tanks and a little over a year of use, the nitrate bottles in my API MTK feel nearly empty.

I mail-ordered the whole kit for ~$20 shipped. I think to just replace the two nitrate bottles is about $10.
 
FreshyFresh said:
That's true kumar. You definitely run low on the nitrate bottles first. I know with my 4 tanks and a little over a year of use, the nitrate bottles in my API MTK feel nearly empty.

I mail-ordered the whole kit for ~$20 shipped. I think to just replace the two nitrate bottles is about $10.
Click to expand...
The hagen master kit also includes test kits for phosphate and carbonate, useful for softwater tanks. I had mine for two years that I used it, after that I didnt have any tanks so it expired. Never had to replace anything, tested 2x a week.
 
OK, still have the 4 platies in the 55g tank. Got the Python kit, which has made water changes a lot easier. I have been changing 33% once a week (I'm busy with 2 kids and a baby) and feeding small amounts every 2 to 3 days.

Finally got the nitrate and nitrite tests and took all 3 params today. These are the results:
- Ammonia: Somewhere between 0 and .25 ppm. It's not quite yellow, and not quite light green.
- Nitrite: 0 ppm
- Nitrate: 5 ppm

Should I wait till Ammonia is definitely at 0 to add more fish? Seems hard to get down to 0. Even after large water changes the ammonia seems to not want to budge much below .25 ppm.

Thanks for the advice!
 
there might be ammonium (a compound of ammonia and i think chlorine) in your water which will make it look like there is ammonia right after a water change, so try testing a few hours later or the next day to give the bacteria time to consume it. I came across this problem with my water.
 
Could be I guess. But I haven't changed the water for about 4 days now and tested yesterday. Still came up with about .25 ppm. However I do notice that there doesn't seem to be a change even right after a water change. Next time (in a few days) I'll try doing all the tests a few hours after the water change.
 
OK Ammonia is down to 0ppm. , nitrites 0ppm, nitrate is 5ppm.

I think I am good to buy some more fish right?

I have 4 platies, and was thinking for now, one more platy and 4 cory cats.

Also I have a black Molly in my 10g. Will I be able to put that in my 55g with platys, cory cats and tetras?

The molley needs brackish water, right? I just found that out and have been keeping it in fresh water for years with no apparent problems...
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom