Just to chime in on a couple things...
First, as stated, a quality test kit like an API Master kit is a vital aspect of fishkeeping, especially during cycling. Strips are normally useless and you might as well be guessing the levels. I understand $ or transportation issues, but you can find API kits for reasonable prices on sites like Amazon.
I also agree that daily 50% pwc's are a good idea until you are able to test your levels. Also having a quality dechlorinator (I prefer Seachem Prime) will help temporarily neutralize ammonia and nitrIte for 24-36 hours. If I understand, it's a single Guppy in your tank? If so, there is not any significant bio-load, but in an uncycled tank the ammonia can eventually build over time.
Pwc's will not hurt your cycle since there are virtually nil amounts of BB which reside in the water column. Just make sure you are dechlorinating the water and temp matching. It's also a good idea to do pwc's fairly quickly, since even though the majority of your BB is in the filter media, anywhere there is bio-film...there is some degree of bacteria. I personally recommend doing enough pwc's to keep the ammonia and no2 below .25 until the tank is stabilized.
As to the air stone issue. Nitrifying bacteria are aerobic and benefit from high oxygen environments (hence why they tend to focus in the filter media). The bubbles moving through the water do absolutely nothing, but as stated, increased surface agitation = more o2 exchange = higher dissolved oxygen content. I'm not saying it's a make or break situation...but during a cycle any little thing helps and is worth trying.
Also, I would personally highly recommend against continuing the "instant cycling" product. The vast majority of them do not contain true nitrifying bacteria...the contain heterotrophic bacteria which is able to do the job and cause conversion, but they are short lived and have the potential to outcompete the true nitrifyers. Believe me when I say that I've seen more than a few examples of crashed bio-filters being traced back to bottled bacteria. The only one I even have remotely any faith in is Tetra SafeStart (formally Bio-Spira). I'm not as concerned with that one...but I still wouldn't let it near one of my tanks.
Moral of the story...find a way to monitor levels, get a quality dechlorinator like Seachem Prime (which contains additional benefits), perform water changes as necessary, avoid the bacteria boosters IMO...and stock slowly and conservatively once the tank is proven stable.