How would you treat this ill clown loach ?

Yes, 3 teas = 1 table.

Here is the next thing. Fish who get and recover from ich have an immunity. The science knows this is the case, however, they are not sure how long it lasts or if it is different for species.

The rule I follow for Q is tank/farm raised raised 1 month.
Wild caught and imported (no matter how raised) 3 months.

The above times are continuous days without any illness etc. If you have to treat the fish, if and when they recover, the time starts over from 0 days. There are some diseases which can take months to manifest. You can choose to do this or some other way. Its always yput call as they are ypur fish and your tank(s).

These loner times are most important for your rarest and/or most expensive fish as well as your favorites. Those should receive the benefit of the full period since they are the ones you want least to lose.

If you want to know more about treating ich and its life cycle than most, here is a pretty neat review paper:

REVIEW ARTICLE

An assessment of the use of drug and non-drug interventions
in the treatment of Ichthyophthirius multifiliis Fouquet, 1876,
a protozoan parasite of freshwater fish

S. M. PICÓN-CAMACHO1*, M. MARCOS-LOPEZ2, J. E. BRON1 and A. P. SHINN1
1 Institute of Aquaculture, University of Stirling, FK9 4LA Stirling, UK
2 Marine Laboratory, 375 Victoria Rd, AB11 9DB Aberdeen, UK

(Received 17 June 2011; revised 12 September 2011; accepted 16 September 2011; first published online 14 November 2011)

S U MM A RY

Infection by the ciliate protozoan Ichthyophthirius multifiliis Fouquet, 1876 causes significant economic losses in freshwater
aquaculture worldwide. Following the ban on the use of malachite green for treating food fish, there has been extensive
research aimed at identifying suitable replacements. In this paper we critically assess drug and non-drug interventions,
which have been tested for use or have been employed against this parasite and evaluate possibilities for their application in
farm systems. Current treatments include the administration of formaldehyde, sodium chloride (salt), copper sulphate and
potassium permanganate. However, purportedly more environmentally friendly drugs such as humic acid, potassium
ferrate (VI), bronopol and the peracetic acid-based products have recently been tested and represent promising alternatives.
Further investigation, is required to optimize the treatments and to establish precise protocols in order to minimize the
quantity of drug employed whilst ensuring the most efficacious performance. At the same time, there needs to be a greater
emphasis placed on the non-drug aspects of management strategies, including the use of non-chemical interventions
focusing on the removal of free-swimming stages and tomocysts of I. multifiliis from farm culture systems. Use of such
strategies provides the hope of more environmentally friendly alternatives for the control of I. multifiliis infections.

from http://dspace.stir.ac.uk/bitstream/...macho et al Parasitology Ich chemo review.pdf
 
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The only thing i added to the tank in the past year were some cherry barbs - i presume tank raised since they are 'long fin'. They still show no sign of illness now 6 weeks later. What we think happen is they simply carrier of some sort of bacteria that does not effect them. What i will do after i move next year is setup a QT tank with a sump and put a very strong UV light in the sump to kill these sort of things - it might not be fool proof but at least it will have a chance to catch 'hidden' diseases or parasite. I'm setting up a 400 gallon tank to replace my 120 after i move and hopefully after it is setup i don't have to add new stock for years at a time - because doing large water changes on the 120 is a royal pain; and i'd hate to try doing 50 % water changes on a 400 several times a week.
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Given how fast the cardinals died and never showed symptoms i have to presume the root problem is likely bacteria in nature.
 
(some answers to questions)
Why I readily switched from ick med to salt:
Water changes take 2 to 3 hours and I cannot do them every day due to other commitments - i had treated with ick medicine 5 days. Also i was being accused of being lazy or cheap to not use salt even though i noted that i had started other treatments (including uv).
Why I did not notice the cardinals dying - I had added a spray bar and at first though it was related to them having problems with the current; also the tank is very large and it is easy for some of them to break off from the pack and then reappear at a later date due to dense plantings - it was only when the loach got sick i realized why they were dying. Most of the fishes seem not to be effected by this disease (so far).
I do not think it is ick because i found pictures that showed and discussed the disease and showed pictures that match what I see and violate some of the patterns for ick but i'm willing to call it ick in this thread since it appears both diseases can be treated the same way with the exception of heat. Some of the pattern that differs from ick is more dots around and nearly in the eye; more on the tail; less on the upper body and the dots are very flat and not raised. I find ick dots to be a bit larger; more uniform and bit raised. Still I could be mistaken and it could be ick as the differences are minor. Last but least ick tends to be a slow killer - the fishes that did die died without symptons and very very fast. This suggest nto a parasite that is killing but bacteria.
 
Ich comes in a variety of strains and they are not identical in either how they present nor how virulent they are. Here is one example

Swennes AG, Noe JG, Findly RC, Dickerson HW. Differences in virulence between two serotypes of Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. Diseases of Aquatic Organisms. 2006 Apr;69(2-3):227-232. DOI: 10.3354/dao069227. PMID: 16724566.

Abstract
Naive channel catfish Ictalurus punctatus were infected by 2 isolates of the parasitic ciliate Ichthyophthirius multifiliis that differed in virulence. The isolates, NY1 and G5, Serotypes A and D, respectively, express different surface immobilization-antigens. The virulence of the 2 isolates was compared using tail-fin infections to quantitate parasite numbers and by analysis of the survival of infected fish. Although NY1 infected fish at a lower level than G5, all NY1-infected fish died, but 51% of G5-infected fish survived. The greater virulence of NY1 is apparently a consequence of its shorter life cycle, which results in overwhelming reinfection of fish before they can develop a protective immune response. This report represents the first experimental evidence for differences in virulence between serotypes of I. multifiliis.

from https://www.researchgate.net/profil...serotypes-of-Ichthyophthirius-multifiliis.pdf
 
It could be ick -i just don't know. Anyway salt concentration is now at 1 tsp per gallon and i'll leave it here till saturday's water change then try to up it slightly - i have sterbai cory in the tank which are probably not going to love a lot of salt. the smallest (a year younger) is completely cleared but he was never horribly ill - not sure abou the two largest whch are most effected since they are in their caves.
 
Here is an updated picture that shows the disease as it progressive. Not very ick looking:
c1.jpg
 
Skin: Ich infections are usually visible as one or several characteristic white spots on the body or fins of the fish. The white spots are single cells called trophonts, which feed on host cells (epidermal cells and leukocytes attracted to the site) and may grow to 1 mm in diameter.[3][10] Heavy infections with subsequent lesions following trophont escape leave the skin irregular, fluffy and greyish.
from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ichthyophthirius_multifiliis

This pic is from https://www.petmetwice.com/how-to-treat-ich-in-goldfish/ and the title for it is " Clown Loach With Ich"

ClownLoachesWithIch2-1-1024x768.jpg
 
Clown loaches can produce extra slime coat due to irritation. I had that happen once. I had fed homemade seafood mix. The loach was fine 1 evening & dead in the am. I'm not sure what happened, no other fish were affected, no ammonia spike. It really smelled bad, that's how I knew to look for something wrong.

I'm not sure of the best salt dosage but a "bath" for 20 minutes is likely much stronger than you'd use in a tank for many days. I have seen 1 teasp/gal but also 1TBSP/5 gal. Since you have concerns about salt & loaches & catfish you could just go with what you have now. When you can vac add the same amount of salt to keep it there. The "usual rule" is to keep up any treatment for at least a week after all signs of disease are gone. I go for 10-14 days of health.
 
I had 6 clown loaches.
1 has died
1 was never effected
2 are greatly improved. they have mostly lost their tails but their bodies are mostly clear and they are behaving in a more normal fashion; this disease that looks like ick rots the tails.
1 is marginally improved but is showing some signs of distress
1 is in extreme distress.
 
Yep, we get that you'd like this ordeal over, that's how we all like tank issues to be done. But it will take some work & patience to make it so. I told via pm to go with 1teasp/gal & wait it out. There can be secondary bacterial infection but 1 thing at a time. Your fish have an external parasite infection. Whether it's ich or something else, the treatment is the same; salt or malachite green being my preference. This constant switching of meds is not allowing either to do what you want. Stop! Pick 1!

Many of us on AC are frustated by your lack of sticking to a tx. Yes, you have a bigger tank, so do many of us...that's part of the deal; big tank= lots of meds + large WCs.
 
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