I can't decide....

[jpappy789]

I concede I don't know squat about plated tank needs so please correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't under gravel systems also dirt cheap, effective and good for planted aquariums? I didn't mean to insinuate that AC and other hand filters are a bad cheap choice as I use them as well as nitrate filters and they can be had for near nothing used. Just don't want to see you go cheap on a canister filter which deals with water pressure and possible flooding if you go cheap. For the price of two Rapids you could buy a Hot Mag or Mag 350 on eBay and almost forget about your filtering issues and concentrate on your plants. I think those Rapids will keep you busy in fixes, don't skimp on canisters, better to buy used quality then new junk.

Depends.

I've used UGF/RUGF filtration with plants and had no problems as long as I didn't try to move certain plants. My cryptocorynes, for example, were so tangled up in the plates that it was impossible to move them without harming the existing root system. Didn't end happy for the plant.

One thing to consider is that an UGF will be powered by a powerhead, an airstone, or something of the sort, which will most likely cause some surface agitation. You could try to mod it with the AC HOB driving the system but I'm not sure if it would be worth the effort.

A RUGF would work much better, as it takes water in and pushes it through the substrate. No surface agitation.

But I agree that generally with filtration, what you buy is what you get.

 

[Paintballer99]

So are there any canister filters for about $50? On ebay or anywhere else?

 

[Slappy*McFish]

Look into the Marineland HOT Magnums. I have one on my 10g along with an AC 50.

 

[SMinNC]

I'm running my 55g with UGF and a magnum 350. And plain 'ol aquarium gravel.

Just don't do that if your going to use one of them fancy substrates. It'll look like the Miss. River all day everyday.

I have my PH's sitting right at substrate lvl. With a DIY spray bar aimed up the back.

Here are a couple of pics I took an hour ago.

Left half

Right half

Spray bar/ PH assembly...

You wouldn't really need the spray bar, but thats how mine was done, incase your curious.

If you went with an UGF, I'd suggest an AC30. An UGF w/PH on one end, aimed across the back towards the AC on the other end.
If you started using CO2, you could plug it into the PH and be good to go.

OR

There is always the option of running the UGF with the AC30. But for your particular set-up. I'd go with the AC30 and PH.

 

[SMinNC]

Look into the Marineland HOT Magnums. I have one on my 10g along with an AC 50.

You run both of those on a 10g? :evil_lol:

Is that your fish writing on the glass? > > > :help:

 

[jpappy789]

Neat idea SMinNC!

 

[Paintballer99]

Sorry but dose ph mean powerhead? But I like SminNC's idea. What your saying is that if i get an AC30 and put run the co2 under it, (in a powerhead?) i should be fine? Otherwise, I really like your idea.

 

[jpappy789]

Yep, PH = powerhead.

 

[Paintballer99]

Sorry but dose ph mean powerhead? But I like SminNC's idea. What your saying is that if i get an AC30 and put run the co2 under it, (in a powerhead?) i should be fine? Otherwise, I really like your idea.

Is this right?

 

[Slappy*McFish]

You run both of those on a 10g? :evil_lol:

Is that your fish writing on the glass? > > > :help:

lol..I know right?
Actually, it's not too bad. The AC 50 is on the lowest setting while the Magnum's output it strategically aimed down toward the CO2 diffuser creating a counter current situation preventing the bubbles from rising to the surface too quickly. My co2 levels stay around 25ppm with a DIY solution that is replaced every 10 days.
This is the tank in question: