That's the kind of tank you put on boxes of aquarium kits. Too perfect to seem real! Always one of my favorites when I see it 
I need an all-in-one fertilizer. Ideas please.
- Thread starter captmicha
- Start date
Yeah, which is why I want to get the Micro & Macro, not the PMDD.
Dosing two separate things seems easier than dosing 4 separate things.
If I follow their advice and use lower lighting, then how am I supposed to grow my "high light level" plants? Does the CO2 make up for less intense lighting? I don't remember seeing that anywhere but that doesn't mean that it's not true, of course.
Not much, but if you wish, you can mix powders together also, same as liquids.
CMS + B for example, they add boric acid to CMS.
GH booster, CaSO4/MgSO4/K2SO4.
No biggie if you mix the dry micros and then mix the dry macros into 2 powders.
You cannot vary the ratios then...but you might not care.
I have never seen a high light aquatic plant.
CO2 does make up for more intense lighting, but plants did not need intense lighting to begin with, therein lies the myth.
CO2 means more resources go to gathering light instead of trying suck any scraps of CO2, this is a huge expense to the plant.
Ole and Troels suggest this in depth in this article which has a lot more meaning to the newer hobbyist than any fert article, including EI or others I have written about.
http://www.tropica.com/advising/technical-articles/biology-of-aquatic-plants/co2-and-light.aspx
Regards,
Tom Barr
Cause I am doing 1/2 this amount of light and doing quite well???
Just because someone cannot grow X plant with 3 w/gal of say T5 lighting, does not imply that lighting is the key.
You cannot say that unless you have actively tested over the range of lighting.
A good way to do this and comparatively so, and with a universal standard, is to use adjustable height wire suspension and multiple bulbs you can turn on/off to suit, and ........use a light meter.
Hoppy made this chart using my light meter so folks could estimate a bit closer, I actually use the meter, so I have fewer assumptions or estimates.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/105774-par-vs-distance-t5-t12-pc.html
All different tanks, but the light intensity is the same in each case. About 1.5 W/gal for my tanks using PC or T5 lighting, except the AFA tank, but the light intensity using a meter reveals that the light is identical in each case, about 40-50micromol/M^2/sec evenly along the bottom of the sediment. Seems ADA lights are high in watts, but poor on actual intensity. They are fairly high from the top of the aquarium. This reduces intensity, but makes the spread more even, fewer hot spotting. This too can be confirmed with a light meter.
The maintenance is easier than with higher light.
This does not imply higher light does not "work", only that it's management is more difficult with less and less gain.
You get far better, easier management with lower lighting. Things are much less likely to go wrong.
CO2 gas tanks also make the issue of CO2 tweaking much easier and better than DIY.
The difference is a good as sliced bread for going canned CO2.
I did DIY for 10 years, I've done gas tanks for over 20 now.
CO2 gas is where most of the adjustment and care and watching should go.
Ferts are quite easy compared to CO2. Light is also easy to measure, but cost a fair amount for a decent light meter. But many hobbyist use them and detail their set ups, which can then be copied fairly well, or borrow a meter from someone etc.
This leaves mostly CO2.
Down to 1 thing to tweak and watch ain't 1/2 bad.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/105774-par-vs-distance-t5-t12-pc.html
Sorry for the thread hijack, but it hasnt moved in a while so i thought id ask this question here instead of cluttering the forum with a bunch of questions on similar subjects. Im about to start dosing PMDD as soon as i order the ferts. My question is actually about root tabs though. Im using coarse sand as a substrate and i know it has no nutrients for the swords and P. Stellata and other plants that need heavy root fertilization. Ive used Flourish root tabs in the past and didnt notice any real gains from them(not to mention theyre pretty expensive for the amount you get), so what ones would you guys recommend? Ive heard good things about Root Medics Complete capsules as well as Substrate Root Zone tabs that aquariumfertilizer.com sales and ill probably go with one of those two since ill be ordering my dry ferts from them as well, but i dont know which one will be best for my setup. Also, if i go with the Substrate Root Zone tabs, how many would i need for my tank? Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/i...urnEdit=9&Returnitemname=&ReturnShowItemStart=
http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/i...urnEdit=9&Returnitemname=&ReturnShowItemStart=
Run down of my setup:
55g
2wpg
pressurized co2
Plants:
Micro Sword
Nesaea Pedicellata Golden
Pogostemon Stellatus
Red Rubin
Radican Sword
Ozelot Sword
Baby Tears
Cryptocoryne Undulata
Cryptocoryne Crispatula
Thanks in advance.
http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/i...urnEdit=9&Returnitemname=&ReturnShowItemStart=
http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/i...urnEdit=9&Returnitemname=&ReturnShowItemStart=
Run down of my setup:
55g
2wpg
pressurized co2
Plants:
Micro Sword
Nesaea Pedicellata Golden
Pogostemon Stellatus
Red Rubin
Radican Sword
Ozelot Sword
Baby Tears
Cryptocoryne Undulata
Cryptocoryne Crispatula
Thanks in advance.
Sigh, yet another myth concerning high light plant requirements, aquatic plants are LOW light plants.
In the "old days" of incad's and cheaper low output FL's, this was reasonable advice perhaps. Today with PC, T5, no one in their right mind should use more than 1.5-2w/gal ranges.
W/gal is a poor comparative measure of light, the article did not use it, but since you likely do not have a light meter, it might help. Hoppy has some decent light curves from various types of light ing relative distance away from the lights on the planted tank .net.
You might wander over there and look that up. Hoppy is local and borrows some of my equipment from time to time to do good work to help hobbyists.
Dosing 2 liquids is common for some folks. I do not like liquids much, I do it out of habit from the traces.........but I see no need to have liquids for the macros. I can add whatever amount of each to change the ratios or play around also this way much easier and adjust things.
Whatever works getting the ferts in somewhat consistently really. They add all the same stuff.
Co2 enrichment does make up for more light(you got that part correct!), it also means that the algae, which are not CO2 limited like the plants, have less light as well, and will grow at a slower rate.
Adding to this, since CO2 demand is easier to achieve with lower light, so is.........fertilization. You get excellent growth, nice stable systems, healthy plants/fish, easier to care for than higher light systems, less waste for energy cost/electric bills/initial light hood cost etc.
Wasted lighting is the single biggest waste in the planted hobby as far as $$ and ecological footprint.
Regards,
Tom Barr
I just bought these, no problems so far and seem very reasonable...definitely worth a try:
http://www.bobstropicalplants.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=540
http://www.bobstropicalplants.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=540
