Ich Massacre

Raising the temp slowly along with treatment helps to speed the life cycle of the ich parasite. Usually if you raise the temp in the tank 2 degrees per day until you reach 86 degrees F (and keep it that way for at least 7 days) that in itself can get rid of the parasite. The meds and/or salt just speed things along more if you add them along with the temp raising.

I agree that the tank is cycling and that probably made your fish stressed and more suseptible to the parasite. What a lot of people don't know is that ich is always in the water source. A healthy fish is usually tough enough to resist the parasite. It is when something isn't right with the fish that it falls victim to the parasite. I can atest to this personally. My friend had a fish that she was growing out and when it out grew its tank--but she hadn't moved it yet--it contracted ich. She hadn't added any new fish in 2 years and the only thing that was different was the fish had outgrown its tank and was no longer happy. Adding new fish can cause an ich outbreak because the addition can stress out your original fish.

Just a little bit of info. I hope that your next attempt works out better!
 
There can be a subclinical occurrence of ich in a tank of healthy fish. It would be on their gills and you might never see the white spots and not see and/or dismiss the occasional flashing. In such cases, stress can cause ich to seem like you have a spontaneous infestation.

But, if a tank is devoid of ich, no amount of stress can bring it on, because it is not there. Ich always being in a tank is a myth. Know your enemy. Read the thread TheZoo linked to in post #4. Read Daveedka’s article http://aquafacts.net/wiki/index.php/Ich and read the following http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/ich.shtml
 
Back to tank health. I second the Master Test Kit from API. Search online for price, print, then bring to Petsmart. They will match. Their online price is 13.49. There in store price of over 30.

Also, check here for a great LFS that should not be too far from you.
 
Thanks for all the reply's guys, I really appreciate the help.

So the last fish I had was a chinese algae eater, it has died. They're all dead :eek:

I took the biofilter out of my filter because they said I needed to @ the store and on the back of the medication box. They said I needed to take out all the carbons from the under-gravel filter system and bio-bags from the filter system.

I'm going to go to petsmart and buy one of those test kits right now as well as another filter pack... or maybe just another filter because the one I had was a Tetra Whisper and I have heard bad things about it. Are they wrong? Is Tetra a good brand? If not what do you suggest (something that won't break my bank please ;) )

When do you think I can start adding fish again?
 
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The Tetra filter itself is not bad, but it isn't that great either. All those cartridges can really add up.

If you are getting a new filter anyway, get an AquaClear. As with all filters, you should probably get one rated for twice the size of your tank. Don't bother with running any carbon, as it is not necessary except when removing medication from a tank after treatment. You can replace the carbon with "filter floss" (a.k.a. laywers of inch-think quilt batting from Wal-Mart or a fabric store)

Before adding fish again, you need to do what is called a "fishless cycle". Search around here and you will find all you need to know.

And yes, saltwater would probably be an expensive mistake right now, as it can cost several hundred dollars to "reset" even a small setup after a disaster.

SirWired
 
baltimorepablo said:
I'm going to go to petsmart and buy one of those test kits right now as well as another filter pack... or maybe just another filter because the one I had was a Tetra Whisper and I have heard bad things about it. Are they wrong? Is Tetra a good brand? If not what do you suggest (something that won't break my bank please ;) )

When do you think I can start adding fish again?
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I haven't had a problem with my HOB (Hang on Back) Tetra Whisper for my 10g, but my internal Tetra Whisper ate more fish fins than I can count. I wouldn't go with internal filters ever again. By internal I don't mean undergravel filters. For my 30 though I have a Marineland Penguin 150 Biowheel. I heard many good things on Marineland before I bought it. It's a bit more out of your pocket, but I think it would be a much better buy than Tetra. Again, try to pricematch it at Petsmart.

As far as adding fish again, you really need a liquid test kit. I third the API Freshwater Master Kit. I love mine. I just have a tendency to drop the glass test tubes. Luckily I have a wonderful LFS in the neighboring town who carries spare test tubes. Get a thing of pure ammonia, and have that test kit handy. This is the link I was sent when I asked about cycling : http://www.aquariumboard.com/forums/articles/26-cycling-tank-fw.html
It may take a while, especially for a 30g, but it's far less discouraging than having lots of fish die from Ammonia/Nitrite poisoning. I have gotten compliments on the 30g I have with no fish in it so it's not all bad. You have time to really think out what kind of fish would be good for the tank.
 
Well the thing is, I'm not getting a new filter anyways unless I need one. If my Tetra is good then I can just buy another biofilter pack for it.

SirWired said:
Don't bother with running any carbon, as it is not necessary except when removing medication from a tank after treatment.
Click to expand...

And I shouldn't waste my time on putting the under-gravel filter system back in place?
 
baltimorepablo said:
And I shouldn't waste my time on putting the under-gravel filter system back in place?
Click to expand...

I used to swear by under gravel filters. Not any more. A lot of gunk (technical term - LOL) works its way down through the gravel and ends up laying between the plates of the UGF and the bottom of the tank. It becomes quite the effective Nitrate factory.
 
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