Higher temps will get the life cycle of the ich shorter which will save time that the fish have the disease. The flip side is that some fish do not take high temperatures very well. The endlers should be able to go to 84 easily but not so sure about the inverts. You only need to go all the way to 86 if you are trying to use temperature by itself to cure the ich.
is regular household salt dangerous to invertebrates?
- Thread starter o0viet0o1
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i personaly havnt had any problems with a temp of 84 in any of my tanks with inverts in when treated for ich and never lost a fish or invert ever through treatment.
im glad to hear that. the only fish ive been losing however are endlers. They would die or "disapeer" from unknown reasons i dont know but im assuming its my fish. is it true that if my water was "bad" then my inverts would likely to die first. rather than my endlers?
i wouldnt realy say they would be the first to die, but imo they would be the first to re-act. if snails they will try to leave the water and be at the surface and i mean all of them not just 1. looks like a prison breakout if you see it. shrimps would act aratic but could be miss led for the females and males mating. am sure some 1 else would have more spesific advice.
so im doing the process of addding the salt into my 10g fish tank. its going to take the rest of the night under my estimation... i am currently adding salt to the FW because the endlers seem to have ich.
does anybody know if i need to clean out the salt once the process is finished? or could i just leave the salt in there and no harm would be done to the fish.
does anybody know if i need to clean out the salt once the process is finished? or could i just leave the salt in there and no harm would be done to the fish.
its can harm any type of aquatic life... fish or invertebreate.. because most table salt is treated with decaking agents among other things,sometimes you my get lucky and dump in some that doesnt have these aditives.. but is it worth the risk?? i carton a aquatic ( "freshwater" ) salt is like 5 bucks and treats over 100 gallons of water
id do a 25% water change at end of treatment,i do this with any disease. and after that regular water changes will remove the rest
hope this helps,
cory
id do a 25% water change at end of treatment,i do this with any disease. and after that regular water changes will remove the rest
hope this helps,
cory
Lupin
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I don't think there is cause for concern on the use of table salt, not even the iodine content. I along with plenty others have used table salt with no problems.
The anti-caking agents are inert biologically speaking, you'd pickle your tank inhabitants far before you poisoned them with the FOOD SAFE anti-caking agent.
Same for the iodide/iodized salt, it's a truly tiny amount of iodide, something that both we AND aquarium critters require for life.
You would, again, pickle them before there was enough iodide to even think about causing problems.
EDIT:
For referance, i wouldn't use "aquarium" salt, as it may well simply be rock salt. Rock salt has all sorts of entertaining impurities, and it is *NOT* food-safe.
If you wouldn't eat it, don't put it in the fish tank.
Same for the iodide/iodized salt, it's a truly tiny amount of iodide, something that both we AND aquarium critters require for life.
You would, again, pickle them before there was enough iodide to even think about causing problems.
EDIT:
For referance, i wouldn't use "aquarium" salt, as it may well simply be rock salt. Rock salt has all sorts of entertaining impurities, and it is *NOT* food-safe.
If you wouldn't eat it, don't put it in the fish tank.
