I can't see anything? Are these pics supposed to be wigglers?
Not easy to see in picture, only just hatched, between the two columns there is a pool just below the head of the mother, it is dark spot. yes full of wrigglers that keep escaping but she sucks them up and puts them back... will get a better picture tomorrow..I can't see anything? Are these pics supposed to be wigglers?
yes, that is typical cichlid brood care.....if the fry venture to far, the parents will gently suck it into their mouth and spit it back into the group. Safety in numbersNot easy to see in picture, only just hatched, between the two columns there is a pool just below the head of the mother, it is dark spot. yes full of wrigglers that keep escaping but she sucks them up and puts them back... will get a better picture tomorrow..
i used to do the frozen baby brine shrimp for a few weeks, then switch them over to frozen Daphnia then crushed flake food, but I noticed when I start them on crushed flake food right away I get a better growth rate and it's MUCH higher in crude protein than frozen foods. I don't even bother with anything besides flake food at this point and as they grow I start to offer sinking pellets which get eaten as they soften-up from sitting in the water a bit.They won't feed on anything just yet, they'll live on their yolk for a week or two. Once you see the yolk starting to decrease you can offer powdered flake, freshly hatched brine shrimp, microworms (easy to culture), paramecium (easy to culture), or a commercially available fry food (eg. http://www.zmsystems.co.uk/index.ph...ef=zm100&sid=u048r9f4i9443y3d38tl7zi591f3gc50). However, I suggest a mix. I feed my African cichlid fry all of the above and get really good results. They should be fed multiple times a day, I aim for about 5 times.
yea, I can agree live is better, but also can transmit pathogens as well. I would probably say if you raise the live-foods on your own it's ok, but I wouldn't trust anything you don't know the history of. I also worry that some fish will get spoiled with live-foods and feel that getting them eating pellets and flakes is the easiest way to keep that from happening. I hate when I get stuck with a fish that refuses to take pellets or flakes......just makes everything more complicated and more work for meI like to provide a variety in a day. The first thing they get is the powder I linked, it's incredibly high in protein (so I won't use it when I start raising mbuna), then the second feed of the day is live microworms, next is powder, then paramecium, then crushed yolk flake, then powder. After a week of that they're usually ready for me to start them on some of these really tiny trout pellets we have and I replace the crushed flake and one powder with that. I seem to get really good growth that way, but understand its not for everyone. I don't bother with frozen foods as live is much better.