Joel's 1st Marine Build

Word! (again)

I emptied out the FW last night and started refilling with my original, salted RO water. My plan today is to pick up some more RO from the store so I can finish filling.

If I can get everything filled and the return finished then I'll start running the pump, heater and power head to prep for LR....

Woot! (again)
 
how will you get 12x turnover in the tank? will you be using a CL or only power heads?




Phatboydime said:
Ideally you will want to keep the flow through the sump slow, and used another type of device for flow in the tank. The slower the water moves through the sump, the more contact time it has with all the agents in the sump to remove bad things. Im only going to have about a 2x turnover in my sump, but my tank is going to have 12x, which still isnt alot.

The kritter keeper idea will work, but keep in mind that your water level in the sump will only be as high as the sides of the kritter keeper, so you may want to build a table to put it on that will raise it up from the bottom a few inches to get more water volume in the sump.
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xsdbs said:
how will you get 12x turnover in the tank? will you be using a CL or only power heads?
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With a couple 1000 gallon per hour pumps on my closed loop.:naughty: And acctually if I figure it correctly. I have a 125 gallon tank. My return pump is a 300 gph so that is 2x through the sump considering losses. The closed loop pumps are 1000 gph each and there are two, 2000 divided by 125 = 16x take away a little for friction and head loss and Im realistically at 12x turnover in jsut flow. Add to that, that my closed loop outputs will have four enductors on them with the capability of increaseing flow by 4x, and were talking 48x turnover with losses...can you say SPS tank...woot!
 
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As far as the noise. You can build a durso stand pipe that will fit inside your overflow box and work well. Also as for air in the u-tube.(It will happen eventually). If you dont want to buy an aqualifter. Drill a hole in the very top center the correct size to glue a piece of hard air pump line. Connect a small 1/4 turn ball valve to the hard line, then connect a length of flexible air line to the other end of the ball valve. When your ready put some water in your overflow, water in the tank, open the ball valve and suck on the line. It wont take but a couple long draws and the u-tube will be full ot the top and water will be coming up past the ball valve, close the valve and dump the rest out back into the sump. Problem solved. If you ever get a bubble in it, open the valve, and suck out the bubble...works like a champ.
 
Phatboydime said:
can you say SPS tank...woot!
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Not even close.. you will need to at least double your flow. Eductors do not make the output better, actually worse because it turns the flow into little jets of water, the exact opposite type of flow your looking for in an aquarium.

My MP40 supposedly does up to 3000GPH in my 75G (30") tank and it still isn't enough flow IMO. That coupled with a 1100GPH closed loop and 950GPH return pump connected to 2 penductors (which I really need to take off). After head loss and if I add the return as flow I come out to around 68x turnover.
 
HE HAS SPOKEN.

ace the dream assassin haha

just kidding of course ;)
 
Naw, just being a realist. His claims on flow are EXTREMELY exaggerated. The real flow of that tank would be 1800GPH / 125 = 14.4x turnover. That is 2x 1000GPH closed loop pumps, taking off 100GPH each for head pressure and things like elbos. The 300GPH return from the sump shouldn't even be part of the equation.
 
Phatboydime said:
As far as the noise. You can build a durso stand pipe that will fit inside your overflow box and work well. Also as for air in the u-tube.(It will happen eventually). If you dont want to buy an aqualifter. Drill a hole in the very top center the correct size to glue a piece of hard air pump line. Connect a small 1/4 turn ball valve to the hard line, then connect a length of flexible air line to the other end of the ball valve. When your ready put some water in your overflow, water in the tank, open the ball valve and suck on the line. It wont take but a couple long draws and the u-tube will be full ot the top and water will be coming up past the ball valve, close the valve and dump the rest out back into the sump. Problem solved. If you ever get a bubble in it, open the valve, and suck out the bubble...works like a champ.
Click to expand...

The overflow came with some flexible air line tubing and instructions to do as you suggested -- except by sending the tubing up through one input of the siphon, then suck out air, then pull out. This has worked fine so far, although it's a bit of a pain to maneuver in and out. Maybe I could just leave the tubing in there full time, and so avoid having to drill the siphon....?

As for the noise, I've started looking into dursos, but I think I also need to double check the source of the noise. I think it may be from the fact that the overflow output tube has an almost straight vertical drop to the sump -- so the water basically drops 3' and then splashes down.

Didn't do anything with the return plumbing yet, but I did put back all of the salt water and sand I had removed. I also added 10g more salted, RO water -- looks like I need 5-10g more.
 
If its his first marine build i dont think he has any buissness trying to deal with sps anyways... not trying to sound like a jerk in anyway but it would be a poor decision
 
I put a simple strainer on the top of my overflow box to reduce the noise. 2 seconds to install, just drop it on the tube going down to the sump. A durso type thing isn't really possible to do in an HOB overflow box, not enough room.

Another thing to reduce the noise is get a piece of plexiglass and cut it to size with a notch cut out for the U tube to make a cover on the back side of the box to block the noise.
 
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