What about just removing the actinic bulbs? then what would your total wattage be?
and to my knowledge, Actinics are not 12,000k
and to my knowledge, Actinics are not 12,000k
Light 6700K vs. 10000K and algae
- Thread starter golfproinlexky
- Start date
Here's the 55w GE 9325K straight pin PC for $14.20 plus shipping. They grow plants very well. These are very good bulbs. They have a slight pink cast and really bring out the red colors. DrsFosterSmith.com has them for $31.99 plus shipping.
http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page/001/PROD/Aquarium/F55BX-AR-FS
These are decent if you have straight pins, really pops the red colors out.
Well used in the planted circles for a number of years now.
I've gone all T5's, but still have a few 8800K and these, but no longer use them after selling off most of the PC lights.
More a color preference to you vs the actual growth rates etc, and some colors on plants look better, eg with the Giesemann and the GE 9325, the reds pop out better, for greens, the 8800 K CSL or equivalents do really well.
You could try both etc, but...........bottom line is that CO2.
Read this to understand light + CO2 interactions and WHY good CO2 is critical(not you LeftC, I know you know this, but the OP)
http://www.tropica.com/advising/technical-articles/biology-of-aquatic-plants/co2-and-light.aspx
You'll get MUCH more out of any light if you apply CO2 correctly.
Less algae, less stress to fish, less headache.
Regards,
Tom Barr
12,000K is actinic white. And 50,000K is the realm of super-actinic lighting. And I think the original question is about CF bulbs which are 50/50. So removing the actinic side is not an option.
i agree... your actinics aren't hurting anything. MAYBE putting out less par. MAYBE putting off an undesirable color depending on your tank and preference... and MAYBE switching the color bulbs your using MIGHT show a slight improvement... OR it COULD make your algae issues worse... especially if you increase the demand on the tank by increasing par and thus uptake... while lacking in co2/stability and/or nutrients.
you should have more than enough light on that tank to grow whatever you want... even with the 50/50's...
get that co2 straightened out/stable/timed right/etc., add your ferts as necessary/prescribed... then worry about how your going to waste your money on light.
all things into account... light seems like the least of your worries.
also... there are at least 14000k 75/25 actinic/daylight bulbs (full spectrum)...
and 12000k daylight bulbs (also full spectrum)
from what i understand par isn't necessarily bad on these guys...
you should have more than enough light on that tank to grow whatever you want... even with the 50/50's...
get that co2 straightened out/stable/timed right/etc., add your ferts as necessary/prescribed... then worry about how your going to waste your money on light.
all things into account... light seems like the least of your worries.
also... there are at least 14000k 75/25 actinic/daylight bulbs (full spectrum)...
and 12000k daylight bulbs (also full spectrum)
from what i understand par isn't necessarily bad on these guys...
Thanks everyone for the help and Tom, thanks for the article. Admittedly it is a little (more than a little) over my head, but the general idea is that CO2 and light must be balanced to encourage maximum growth potential. Got that!
Last night I did a major cleaning and water change and also changed back to 6700K lighting. Those are the items I could deal with immediately. My next step is to figure out what my "nutrient" content is and I'm not sure how to do that. I'm a basic testing kind of guy, so how can I figure out where my deficiency is? I'll get a CO2 reading after work today - that I think I can handle. Any more thoughts on my next step...?
Last night I did a major cleaning and water change and also changed back to 6700K lighting. Those are the items I could deal with immediately. My next step is to figure out what my "nutrient" content is and I'm not sure how to do that. I'm a basic testing kind of guy, so how can I figure out where my deficiency is? I'll get a CO2 reading after work today - that I think I can handle. Any more thoughts on my next step...?
I know you have pressurized CO2. Do you have a drop checker and the 4 dKH solution to help dial in your CO2 level? You can move your drop check around in your aquarium to see if you have good CO2 levels throughout your aquarium.
You could start dosing EI and forgo testing. I like the newer version of EI that uses GH Booster (or Seachem's Equilibrium) and leaves out K2SO4. You dose Ca, Mg as well as K with the GH Booster. With K2SO4, you are dosing K. This is EI w/GH Booster: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/2819-EI-light-for-those-less-techy-folks
I use that version because I use my soft tap water. If you use hard tap water, you can use the EI version in the sticky.
It is recommended that you calibrate your test kits. Here are the directions: http://plantgeek.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=68709#68709
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If it does not challenge you or make you think, not a good article. Just a feel good escape.
Good careful CO2 monitoring is the hardest thing in the planted hobby.
Lower but good quality light will help a long ways to making management of CO2 EASIER.
More light, makes it hard/more difficult to use CO2.
If you stick with good low light + good current + good CO2 and high grade equipment for light/CO2......then the rest is MUCH easier.
Then things like ferts/nutrients etc are minor issues.
A good vernier handle on a high grade needle valve is well worth the $$$.
A great small USA company is Ideal needle valve, the brass one with the vernier handle is well worth the $$(70-80$).
A good clippard 1/8" FPT in line Check valve added after the solenoid (about 15$) is wise.
You can get some good dual stage regs off ebay etc.
Tygon thick airline/CO2 line will make it easier as well.
Good current, filters, CO2 diffusion methods will make the rest much eaiser.
Good current and some surface movement is very very wise.
This adds O2, which makes dosing CO2 much easier and reduces respiratory stress on fish.
Basically higher O2, makes it less stressful for fish, many reduce their flow in planted tanks at the expense of less O2, which......causes the fish to barely to be able to hang on, and then addign justa little bit of CO2 enrichment sends them gasping.
So many cannot dose CO2 because they have such low O2 levels and then get algae and complain they cannot add more CO2, they are at the fish's limit.
Regards,
Tom Barr
Good careful CO2 monitoring is the hardest thing in the planted hobby.
Lower but good quality light will help a long ways to making management of CO2 EASIER.
More light, makes it hard/more difficult to use CO2.
If you stick with good low light + good current + good CO2 and high grade equipment for light/CO2......then the rest is MUCH easier.
Then things like ferts/nutrients etc are minor issues.
A good vernier handle on a high grade needle valve is well worth the $$$.
A great small USA company is Ideal needle valve, the brass one with the vernier handle is well worth the $$(70-80$).
A good clippard 1/8" FPT in line Check valve added after the solenoid (about 15$) is wise.
You can get some good dual stage regs off ebay etc.
Tygon thick airline/CO2 line will make it easier as well.
Good current, filters, CO2 diffusion methods will make the rest much eaiser.
Good current and some surface movement is very very wise.
This adds O2, which makes dosing CO2 much easier and reduces respiratory stress on fish.
Basically higher O2, makes it less stressful for fish, many reduce their flow in planted tanks at the expense of less O2, which......causes the fish to barely to be able to hang on, and then addign justa little bit of CO2 enrichment sends them gasping.
So many cannot dose CO2 because they have such low O2 levels and then get algae and complain they cannot add more CO2, they are at the fish's limit.
Regards,
Tom Barr
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Again, thanks for the insight. I am running the poor man's version CO2 Red Sea off of a paintball tank. I can tell that the needle valve is very ordinary, so maybe its time to upgrade and control it better.
I am glad to hear that I'm doing some things correctly. I have a HOB filter and a fluval 205 on my 55G, so the flow is pretty good from those alone. It also sounds like I should shorten the light window some too. It also sounds like I need to change my fert dosing to a more regular schedule.
Let me know if there are any holes in my plan and I'll do my best to plug them. Thanks!
I am glad to hear that I'm doing some things correctly. I have a HOB filter and a fluval 205 on my 55G, so the flow is pretty good from those alone. It also sounds like I should shorten the light window some too. It also sounds like I need to change my fert dosing to a more regular schedule.
Let me know if there are any holes in my plan and I'll do my best to plug them. Thanks!
I understand why you are a bit timid with your CO2. It's your Red Sea needle valve. An inexpensive mod is to run a better quality needle valve inline. A good one is the Fabco NV-55 with barb fittings. You open the stock needle valve wide open and use the Fabco for control.
http://www.aquabotanicstore.com/Fabco_inline_needle_valve_p/nv55.htm
You could also use a Swagelok/Nupro/Parker metering valve or an Ideal needle valve. You can get these with an optional micrometer handle for fine tuning.
http://www.aquabotanicstore.com/Fabco_inline_needle_valve_p/nv55.htm
You could also use a Swagelok/Nupro/Parker metering valve or an Ideal needle valve. You can get these with an optional micrometer handle for fine tuning.
Oh ok. cause ive seen 12,000k and it just looked a little blue. so when i think of Actinics, i think of super dark blue
